7mm The Rise and Fall of Holme Lacy?

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Dave,
what a good spot, thank you. My tapping was interupted by the black and white clincher arriving. I bet the ground disk is worked by the detectors on the catches. There appears to be no point rodding so we might assume that the wooden covers are over the gubbins of a hand lever and there is jusy a signal wire coming into the the hand lever. These appear to be old 10 or 12 ft loose heel switches unlike the BR colour photo that looks to be a later B switch. Smith states that the old switches worked really well in this use but that the later switches were not so good at getting the vehicle out of the way. Presumeably this was because of the shorter planning on the old switches.

Thanks for your help chaps. I am still thinking of changing Amalagamated Flange into a goods shed. I did this earlier today.
Capture.JPG

Watlington meets Fairford. The trouble is that none of the stations on the Hereford, Ross and Gloucester had anything more than a tin goods lock up. The building for Amalgamated Flange is held on with six screws and sits in a tub. I've taken it off and put a very rough mock-up in place. I could rotate Amalgamated to reduce the long swing to get into the building.
DSC02617.JPG
It is very tight!

Cheers Chaps. Stay safe and happy.
Simon
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
I have a signalling diagram and locking chart for Liskeard. The two catch points are operated in conjunction with the foreground 'cropped' turnout from the main although the containing turnout is hand operated. The ground signal controlling exit from the siding is operated by a lever in the box and is released when the 'cropped' turnout in the foreground is reversed and locks normal the ground signal allowing movement from the main line into the siding.
Dave
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Just mocked it up.
IMG_0363a.jpg
Should work a treat. Only a couple of sleepers to replace.
IMG_0366a.jpg
Both sidings can be lifted and relaid with a better alignment onec the worrks is secure down into a new holding tray. Still have no foam underlay. If the East Germans could build a car out of cardboard it must be okay to use as underlay......
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Dave,
just seen your comment about the signal diagram. Very useful. I suspect that I can get away with only a few wiring changes and no extra switches. I'll sit down and draw it out to check the logic.
Thanks.
Simon
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,

Others have beaten me to the solution, this very problem cropped up elsewhere, I came across it at Arley on the Severn Valley, the goods is/was in the form of a loop starting from a diamond in the up line and the stock and closure rails had a trap switch, as per Dave's photo above.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon , just a word of caution with your cardboard underlay . When you ballast , assuming you will , beware using the usual pva / water as the cardboard will suck it up and do all sorts of orrible things . Try using liquid floor polish , people go on about Pledge but really any of them work . I cant find Pledge in Australia so tried some that we use on vinyl flooring and it works a treat.
Cheers Paul
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Progress has been slowed by the need to keep Madam sweet by spending some days working on the fields to top reeds and other weeds, so little time for proper activities for a retired gentleman, who ever he might be. On the other hand there is a copious amount of byproduct from the beneficiaries of my labour. Yup, tons of well rotted horse muck.

The laying of the catch points to the yard has been finished although I still need to take everything off the layout and put the baseboards on their sides to fit the motors and the wiring to the motors. Of course that bloke Sod has put in a contribution. The motor that powers each of the points feeding these siding catch points is on the other baseboard. I either make two junctions in the control box and then modify each loom to the baseboard or I put in a cross baseboard link running from each point motor to the associated catch point motor. The interlocking for each ground disk is already in but without the detectors to check that the catch point is in the on position. I can live without that.
DSC02630.jpg
The disk has to be 6 ft in advance of the catch and I suspect that it might be a bit tight if sighted between the siding and running line, so I shall probably position it as shown. The yard point has a lever at the moment but I tempted to put in one of the lovely London Bridge weighted switch levers.
The cardboard conundrum was solved on Saturday when having done the weekly shop in out neighbouring little town I dropped in to the local builders merchants. They dug out a couple of substitutes for the foam I originally used on The Back End, laminated floor underlay from B & Q (1 hour way plus time spent in a queue). I now possess 15m of accoustic insulating foam that has all the properties that I require and should be enough to see me out of layout building (I have to admit to having form that way). The building for Amalagamted Flange Widgets has been repositioned by about 4mm and rotated by about 4degrees and the alignment has been much improved. Contrast this view with the one in post 44.
DSC02631.jpg
Test running into the yard has revealed no snags but will continue.;) Next to do some more work on the fiddle yard and then to fit the motors to the catch points. I will need to do some landscaping soon to sort out the platforms and other lumps on the model.
Living in a wild place we get a lot of wildlife, but this was as surprise on Saturday morning in the workshop.
DSC02605.jpg
He is a male Redstart and he and Mrs Red are nesting in a stone wall just outside my timber shed. He must of turned right rather than left on the way to the nest. No doubt she gave him a LOTBO.

Stay safe and happy.
Simon
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Nice work on the catch points, not something that you see modelled very often and even less so in turnouts.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Wotcha!
I decided to have a relief from working on the boards and so I tackled the question of the signal box. Looking through the offerings of the laser cutters, I went hunting a small GW signal box. I want small buildings on this layout so that the view stays open and spacious. I selected the model of Llansantffraid Crossing signal box from Rail Model as being suitably small and understated. A very nice model to build (my first laser cut kit) and here it is plonked on the platform.
DSC02638a.jpg
The problem is that it is too small to hold the number of levers required for Holme Lacy and to also have the three and half feet clear at either end of the frame so that the signal man can stand to the window. I consulted my copy of Mr Smiths book on GW signalling and also Stephen Williams book on GW Branch Line Modelling. The answer was obvious, I had to have a Type 5 signal box. 'What is a Type 5 signal box', you may ask, as I did a few days ago. Well it is a small standard brick and wood box that is mounted on the platform. Well, as always with the GW, standard is as standard is. So lots of variation. The one thing I haven't found is one with a hip roof which I would like to have had. After five days I have got to this stage.
DSC02640a.jpg
This my second signal box in fifty (ouch) years of modelling and will obviously need a fully fitted interior as you can see in through those huge windows. Of signal box interiors, "I know nuuthing". So more research and I need to source those bits that are available from the trade. Any ideas?
This building will use up most of my stock of plasticard other than the box of small odds and sods that we all keep but rarely use. Thus I have placed an order with a well known emporium for the plasticard needed to start on the station buildings.

I think I need to do some work on the platforms as these cardboard jobs are now too short and too narrow. For this I shall fight some very curvy 4mm ply sheet into some form. Should this end up looking like two platforms, I will count myself very lucky.

Stay Safe and Happy.

Simon
PS Llansantffraid Crossing signal box is too nice to leave in a box and will thus need its own diorama. Something to stick on a shelf or a corner of the desk to look lovingly at the latest creation?
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Wotcha!
I decided to have a relief from working on the boards and so I tackled the question of the signal box. Looking through the offerings of the laser cutters, I went hunting a small GW signal box. I want small buildings on this layout so that the view stays open and spacious. I selected the model of Llansantffraid Crossing signal box from Rail Model as being suitably small and understated. A very nice model to build (my first laser cut kit) and here it is plonked on the platform.
View attachment 124965
The problem is that it is too small to hold the number of levers required for Holme Lacy and to also have the three and half feet clear at either end of the frame so that the signal man can stand to the window. I consulted my copy of Mr Smiths book on GW signalling and also Stephen Williams book on GW Branch Line Modelling. The answer was obvious, I had to have a Type 5 signal box. 'What is a Type 5 signal box', you may ask, as I did a few days ago. Well it is a small standard brick and wood box that is mounted on the platform. Well, as always with the GW, standard is as standard is. So lots of variation. The one thing I haven't found is one with a hip roof which I would like to have had. After five days I have got to this stage.
View attachment 124966
This my second signal box in fifty (ouch) years of modelling and will obviously need a fully fitted interior as you can see in through those huge windows. Of signal box interiors, "I know nuuthing". So more research and I need to source those bits that are available from the trade. Any ideas?
This building will use up most of my stock of plasticard other than the box of small odds and sods that we all keep but rarely use. Thus I have placed an order with a well known emporium for the plasticard needed to start on the station buildings.

I think I need to do some work on the platforms as these cardboard jobs are now too short and too narrow. For this I shall fight some very curvy 4mm ply sheet into some form. Should this end up looking like two platforms, I will count myself very lucky.

Stay Safe and Happy.

Simon
PS Llansantffraid Crossing signal box is too nice to leave in a box and will thus need its own diorama. Something to stick on a shelf or a corner of the desk to look lovingly at the latest creation?

Hi Simon.

Some great modelling there :thumbs:

Just in response to your mention of signal box interiors, would these be of use?

3EBE6FA2-2E95-4C00-9457-E4D94C43A54E.jpeg

They were for the box on my abandoned ‘Seacombe’ (7mm layout). Funnily enough, I came across them in a box gathering dust only t’other day. As I doubt I shall ever need them, you’re welcome to have them to save them going to waste.

They’re whitemetal, and I can’t remember for the life of me where they came from (Dart Castings?).

Anyway, if you’re interested, Simon, just PM me and they’re yours, sir.

I’d be delighted to make a contribution to such a wonderful layout.

Bestest.

Jonte.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Greetings.
Work has continued with the platforms the focus of attention when in the shed and the signal box when sat at the dinning table. First to the platforms. These were constructed froom 3.5mm ply of the complete and utter rubbish kind. Strorage in a damp barn has improved the utter rubbish attribute no end! A view from a passing drone.
DSC02644a.jpg
A complete lack of any straight strip wood as lead to the reinforcement of any joint with small pieces of ply. The curves were removed by holding the strip of wood over a fiercly boiling kettle until the ply was properly damp and then twisting to shape while it cooled. So far, so good.
DSC02665a.jpg
The vertical faces have now been clad with South East Fincast plain bond bricksheet retained by UHU. The wooden top will be filled and primed to remove the wood texture. Painting will involve lots of talc or chinchilla dust, when I find it, to give some texture. I need to study some of the prototype platforms on the HR&G as the surfaces were anything but even and consistent.
DSC02679a.jpg
The signal box now has a detachable roof and will soon be primed. I think that the colours will be Western Region rather than the two stone colours. The platforms are now a long as I can fit in the available space and this means that there is no room for the group of sheds at the end of the platform. They will appear as this.
DSC02667a.jpg
I am also looking at using my footbridge. Not sure about this at the moment.
DSC02682a.jpg

I need to make a test piece of the station walls. Plastic construction with the dressed stone from plastic sheet. The rubble infill will be from DAS but I need to test methods of keeping the DAS attached to the plastic. Any advice will be gratefully accepted.

Stay safe and happy
Simon
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon , i hope you sealed all the surfaces of the ply after assembly of the platform otherwise you will end up with a banana again .
Cheers Paul
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon.

Some great modelling there :thumbs:

Just in response to your mention of signal box interiors, would these be of use?

View attachment 124967

They were for the box on my abandoned ‘Seacombe’ (7mm layout). Funnily enough, I came across them in a box gathering dust only t’other day. As I doubt I shall ever need them, you’re welcome to have them to save them going to waste.

They’re whitemetal, and I can’t remember for the life of me where they came from (Dart Castings?).

Anyway, if you’re interested, Simon, just PM me and they’re yours, sir.

I’d be delighted to make a contribution to such a wonderful layout.

Bestest.

Jonte.


I can’t help thinking that Seacombe was a little early for the satellite dish. Lovely model though.

atb
Simon
 
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