4mm Starting out in pre 1971 kit building!

[Landy]

Hello Ade

Something like this:
Faithfull Engineers Hand Scraper 8in Triangular 5023969232768 | eBay

they're very useful. Especially if you're a messy solderer like me

Cheers

Jan

I may have to get one of those I've never seen them before either.
I normally use a chisel blade in an x-acto knife for scraping, including cleaning up solder - I'm a messy soldered too!

 

[Lyndhurstman]

I may have to get one of those I've never seen them before either.
I normally use a chisel blade in an x-acto knife for scraping, including cleaning up solder - I'm a messy soldered too!

Hi @Landy
I used them back when I was in engineering, and they somehow found their way into my tool collection when I was made redundant
I also have some sharpened watchmakers screwdrivers for those Important Little (and awkward) Places. Indeed, anything is good, but with these beasts - and their curved brethren - one can use wrist action to ultimate effect.

Cheers

Jan

 

[adrian]

they're very useful. Especially if you're a messy solderer like me

agreed they are very useful. I use a much smaller one like this with an adjustable length blade.



Page 97 from the Squires catalogue TAPS & DIES, ENGINEERS TOOLS page 95 - 102

 

[AdeMoore]

Cheers Jan enlightened I’ll get one.
Today fibre pencil finishing up.


Until next time.
Cheers

 

[Steph Dale]

I might give the little one a go - Jan's one would be better on 12"/1ft bearings...

Another thought for these sorts of problems is Budget Riffler Files 10 Pack | Hobbycraft

There are other sources - this was just the first hit of my search results...

Steph

 

[Lyndhurstman]

agreed they are very useful. I use a much smaller one like this with an adjustable length blade.

View attachment 95148

Page 97 from the Squires catalogue TAPS & DIES, ENGINEERS TOOLS page 95 - 102

Yes... that’s more the thing. I see Eileen’s do the same sort of beast.

The 8” one I have is 8” from end to end - the blade itself is 4” long.

Cheers

Jan

 

[adrian]

I might give the little one a go

Old worn out triangular and knife needle files snapped short and ground smooth are another useful source for small scrapers.

This is my solder scraping kit.

 

[AdeMoore]

Nice little collection Adrian, nice to have a visual representation of an ideal set up.
Cheers

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Old worn out triangular and knife needle files snapped short and ground smooth are another useful source for small scrapers.

This is my solder scraping kit.
View attachment 95165

Nice.

Apart from a lathe, a grinding wheel would be good to get. Many a long day did I spend sharpening drills and lathe tools. I’m sure - even 20+ years later - I still have the skill.

Cheers

Jan

 

[Neil]

Steady on chaps, we've gone from a situation where either a curved craft knife blade or a sharpened screwdriver would be appropriate for the job to a workshop with grinder and lathe just to remove moulding marks from the underside of a roof. Mission creep of the highest order.

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Steady on chaps, we've gone from a situation where either a curved craft knife blade or a sharpened screwdriver would be appropriate for the job to a workshop with grinder and lathe just to remove moulding marks from the underside of a roof. Mission creep of the highest order.

The Wish List is everywhere. There is no escape. It lurks in dark corners, waiting for its moment to strike.

 

[AdeMoore]

Blimey 28th Nov last year was last update!
Painted underside of roof just 1st coat there.



Then glued on the buffers and vac pipe and painted those up. While I had some black out tried a bit of dry brushing on the side umph! Not very good! Something else to sort..




Roof glued on. Matt paint thrown on to tone down the previous gloss pain a bit.




Coming round touching the paint up 4th January this was some lovely light flooding in the van at lunch.



The other side with the dry brushing that needs sorting.



So couplings left to solder up and fit. Weathering and touching up to do but I’m gonna batch that once I’ve done all three.
Next up the mineral wagon.

 

[Jordan]

The Airfix 16t mineral was my first second railway kit, circa 1978. I'd built plenty of Airfix aircraft kits before, & my first railway kit was the Battle of Britain loco - more for the tenuous RAF link than any real interest, but the 16t was my first serious attempt with a view to running properly, having recently got my first train set.
Lessons I learned :-
The plastic wheels were rubbish, & soon replaced.
The horn-hook coupling was utterly bizzare to my eyes, but it was some time before I found tension locks sold as seperate items.
The wagon needed weight to mix with other stock & not derail.
And most importantly of all - over-enthusiastic weathering with lots of turps-based washes dissolves firstly the glue holding the model together, & secondly starts to dissolve the model itself
Oh how my parents loved the smell of my bedroom. Not.!!

Taken me a while to catch up on threads like this, but very enjoyable to read - we've all been there!!

 

[AdeMoore]

Blimey 14th February last update! See a theme here?
So 16 ton mineral I’ve enjoyed the most probably because I’m getting better at fetling um.
My broach to open/deepen pin point holes as before but easier when it’s in bits.






Underframes done start on the body.





Lead weight superglued in.



More 18 year old humbrol painted as a rust colour base to start a white glue weathering progress I had seen on YouTube.







Sponge probably not open textured enough but using prototype photos dabbed on the washable Pva glue.







That’s the 14 photos so not worth another for the next stage. The white glue was left 24 hrs and even looked good after painting as it was creating a beat up side effect. But this masking technique has more stages to go.
More next

 

[AdeMoore]

So mixed up some grey with Matt black and Matt white painted on, was a bit thick should of thinned it more. Making sure vertical strokes only. Keeping it thin and see through ish. Left 24hrs to dry.




Weapon of choice stiff toothbrush with cut down bristles and a pot of water. Then rub into the enamel where the glue is underneath until it breaks down and dabbing paper towel to get back to expose the rust effect.








Thinking now I should of applied the transfers on before the grey paint. Anyway I didn’t so they are going on now.
Unbelievably after nearly 50 years in a box they still came off the backing and applied very well and stuck!



Next the poor coal load I chopped off the legs to allow real coal to be stuck to the top.




Where I ended up today.



Question now folks the edge of the transfers show and the next stage a dark wash will show that worse I feel, I’m thinking dab with a sponge some Pva in same manner around the edges. Then rust paint that which will fade the transfers back a bit.
Then do the wash and powder stages.
Any advice contrary to above?
All comments greatfully received.
Until next time
Cheers

 

[matto21]

Great stuff! Interesting technique with the PVA too. I really like the stand you've made so you can work in the car too!

Matt

 

[AdeMoore]

Cheers Matt yeah for first attempt it came out pretty well. I imagine with airbrushing it could be even better.
I hit it with the Pva around the transfers today. Not sure now whether to dab some rust paint on with a sponge over it or go straight in with the washes and powders.
Car stand yeah works well, it’s a book stand designed for the kitchen. Since the photo at the beginning of the topic I’ve dispensed with the clamps the alloy sheet is heavy enough on it own.
I get an hour lunch so great to do some modelling in that time.
Cheers

 

[paulc]

Cheers Matt yeah for first attempt it came out pretty well. I imagine with airbrushing it could be even better.
I hit it with the Pva around the transfers today. Not sure now whether to dab some rust paint on with a sponge over it or go straight in with the washes and powders.
Car stand yeah works well, it’s a book stand designed for the kitchen. Since the photo at the beginning of the topic I’ve dispensed with the clamps the alloy sheet is heavy enough on it own.
I get an hour lunch so great to do some modelling in that time.
Cheers

I was reading your posts and wondered why you didn't run a swipe of filler in the moulding holes of the cattle wagon roof rather than trying to file the roof away , just an idea .
Cheers Paul

 

[AdeMoore]

I was reading your posts and wondered why you didn't run a swipe of filler in the moulding holes of the cattle wagon roof rather than trying to file the roof away , just an idea .
Cheers Paul

Paul of course your right, it truly would of been so much easier!
That’s the kind of thing posting on forums is great for gaining knowledge. You kind of bumble your way along with a narrow vision until you are more experienced and gain a few nuggets of information.
Thanks for adding your nugget!
Cheers

 

[AdeMoore]

So eBay metal wheel selection turned up. Some 3 hole there for this one.



Lost a kit buffer didn’t fancy making another as I did the meat van so purchased these.



PVA done on transfers and added paint with a sponge.



Black wash time over done it a bit I feel.



So found the only thing I had to get it off was Decalfix, so took some off. Note the wrong transfer.



Mixed up a yellowish cream touched it in.



Humbrol powders mixed up with Decal fix and applied. Doesn’t show well in photos, but a work in progress I think.



These beauties next placed for photo. Paint and glue them on next.



So transfers still need better hiding! But enjoying building this 16T.
Until next time.
Cheers
All comments greatfully received.