7mm Stanhope Glass

danielb

Active Member
Hello! First time poster here, so please be gentle!

As long time N gauge-r with a slowly growing USA set layout, I wanted something to bring me back to my roots - the grot and grime of Industrial England. I've always like 7mm scale due to the level of detail that you just cannot get in the smaller scales, and as it's the only scale where industrial locomotives are widely available.

As it was, I was browsing the web as I often do and came across a photograph of a layout called Moving Coal. I found a related forum thread detailing the layout and was hooked - I read through the whole thread from start to finish in one sitting - all 15-odd pages of it!

From there I went digging for more 7mm industrial layouts, and found Bury, Thorn & Sons, Reely Grate Manufacturing, and a few others, and was blown away by the quality of modelling.

Then I saw the prices of kit and my ideas were soon squashed - everything was so expensive!

And then I found Jim Read's work. I had - unknown to me at the time - actually spoken to Jim at an exhibition, and remembered what he'd said about his layouts and how he spent so little building them.

That's it then, I'd just HAVE to have a go.

With it being a new scale and with my limited room I'd have to start small. I've always liked the idea of a Glassworks, as it's not something you often see modeled. Thus, Stanhope Glass was born.

Why Stanhope? Well, it has been a tradition in my family that the first born child have the middle name Stanhope. I've no idea why, as I dodged that particular bullet by being a second son! :p

That, and it's my dad's middle name, and he's the one that got me into my love of trains. So you could say that it's my dads layout!

At any rate, less prattle from me, on to the juicy stuff!

I'm relying on the materials I have already to make the layout, so the baseboards are foam core board built up in layers. Track and pointwork were purchased 2nd hand cheaply on ebay and from local model shops, as were the rolling stock. My first loco - an Atlas Plymouth 0-6-0 diesel, should arrive within a week, and then I can start carving it up and making something British from it.

Here's the track plan and a basic sketch of what I am hoping it will look like when it's done:

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And here is my work in progress of the loading dock used to store cullet:
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The foam core baseboards have been cut and assembled, I am now waiting for the last of the glue to dry before I start adding backscenes and laying track. :)

Progress photos will come as I work. :)
 

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Osgood

Western Thunderer
That's a great little layout to cut your finger teeth on!

I'm just wondering what type of plastic you could stick in the Kenwood Chef / coffee bean grinder to produce a realistic cullet? Something brittle, like perspex maybe?
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Welcome to this haven of modelling, humour, banter and Blue Brigade.

If you feel a cool breeze on the neck ... well looks like you have borrowed Jordan's coffee stirrers for your Cullet dock and He needs all the stirrers he can get for his US-style track. Best not to upset Mr. J or you will find yourself banished from the back row of the class even before you got through the doors.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
That's a great little layout to cut your finger teeth on!

I'm just wondering what type of plastic you could stick in the Kenwood Chef / coffee bean grinder to produce a realistic cullet? Something brittle, like perspex maybe?
What better than glass to produce something that looks like cullet... that will give you something to cut your finger on!
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
welcome aboard, that looks a great little layout, could you please let us know the dimensions.

cheers

Mike
 

danielb

Active Member
Thank you for the welcome, it is most appreciated. :)

The layout dimensions are 66" x 18" - plenty of room to play. :)

I'm not too sure on what to use for the cullet, to be honest. Possibly glass. I'll figure that part out later, once I've got a layout to pour it onto! :D
 

danielb

Active Member
Jordan, thanks for the welcome, I take it you will be back at TVNAM in 2015? If so, I'll see you there. :D

Regarding the Plymouth, I intend to strip it down to the bare chassis and see what I can turn it into. If I can avoid damaging the original body I will - because who knows when I might be drawn to 0 Scale Dark Side modelling! :D


I do have a very small update on the layout, I've managed to get the second baseboard fully assembled and by now the glue should have dried, which means I can progress the layout a little further tonight - fingers crossed. :)

I've also gotten a small collection of wagon parts cheaply from a fellow modeller, and should be able to get at least 4 wagons built from the parts once they arrive. Good times :)

Granted, the long wheelbase of a couple of them might mean I have to extend the layout a little bit more to allow me to get a loco and a wagon into my switchback headshunt. We shall see. :)
 

danielb

Active Member
A short update for now, I've been trying my hand at some Jim Read wagon "kits" and have gotten a bit done so far. Not a bad first attempt I think. smile3.gif

The plan is to get as much of it assembled as I can, then coat it in a few layers of shellac to make it as rigid as possible. I'll then figure out the brakes, suspension etc and buffers, then add wooden strips for the wagon surface and weight the bottom before fitting some wheels. smile3.gif

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Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I do not know if this matters to the assembly of this kit... I think that the solebar has been attached to the floor upside-down. Crown plates have single bolt to the top, hand brake lever to the right hand end.
 

danielb

Active Member
Oh, I know my papercraft isn't right for now, but all I do with the scale drawings are cut them out and stick them to card to act as a template for cutting out the card. :)

I'll be adding the actual detail once the wagon has been shellac-ed :)
 

danielb

Active Member
With the baseboards roughly assembled I have mocked up the layout to check dimensions and such. This should give you an idea of what I am going for.


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Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Well, shellac-impregnated card is certainly more dimensionally stable than plasticard. It's a material I use on occasion in my scratchbuilding. However; looking at the way Jim's done it is interesting. For my money the shellac hasn't been diluted enough and so it's not really soaking in to the material. I guess what he's effectively doing is damp-proofing the card rather than making full use of the wonderful properties of the shellac. It's certainly working though.

Daniel,
Are the wagon parts in post #9 stuck together or just 'placed'? How are you intending to shellac/join the parts and in what order?

Steph
 

danielb

Active Member
Hi Steph,

The wagon body in the photo is glued up with UHU, though this is really just a test/experiment so I am just making it up as I go. :)
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Daniel,

I'm not entirely sure how that'll work. shellac is meths-based so may attack the UHU. You can use PVA or similar without a real concern if you're applying shellac after assembly. It is also an option to apply the shellac to the parts before cutting out. You can then assemble with more shellac or even neat meths dribbled in (the same way as joining plasticard with solvent), but it'll take a while to dry. These days I draw, shellac, cut the material and then assemble with either contact adhesive or superglue.

Don't be afraid of giving a bit of abuse either, it rolls well, can be filled (Humbrol model filler works well) cut and sanded to a very smooth finish and if you find you've got a problem a little shellac will often help touch in damage to the surface, as well as to any exposed edges.

Pick your materials with a little care and you'll find it a great material to work with. Just make sure you've got a lot of knife blades handy as it blunts them in no time...!

All good fun!

Steph
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
Good work Daniel. One day, I'll give Jim's shellac and card techniques a go... if only to say I've tried it out for myself. I think a freelanced-ish coach or two is called for......
 

danielb

Active Member
Hi Dave,

The foam board is 5mm thick, and I use a double layer of it, and it's stuck together with PVA. :)

Hope that helps.
 
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