7mm SANSPAREIL RIVER

Kev T

Western Thunderer
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Just making a start of a Sanspareil River class.
I believe that Sanspareil haven't done any work on the etches but have improved the instructions and have of course created their own set of superb brass castings.
The instructions are poor with only a sheaf of written instructions and a cd of photos. No drawings. So I got a mate to transfer the photos from his cd player to a usb stick so that I could put them on my laptop.

The etches have initials CMC and are dated mostly 1996.

I've built the chassis and made my first blunder, and it's a good un.

Kev
 

Kev T

Western Thunderer
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The instructions have a line early on "excess quantities of smaller components have been provided where the etch space permits, for those of you who, like me, are ham fisted."

I found the parts for the chassis, made the coupling rods and nailed together the chassis on my jig, then I noticed the chassis sides weren't parallel.
On investigation there are multiple frame spacers and after measuring them they are in sets of 22.7mm, 26mm, and 28mm. No mention of this in the instructions. I noticed that the 22mm frame spacers have no provision for inside motion.

So now I've got to split the frame and decide what spacers to use. I'm tempted for the 26mm as I'd like inside motion but have to get the loco round a 5' radius. My guess is that the 28mm spacers are for scale 7, but I don't know.
I think I may now make the running plate and outside frames to see how it goes together and check it on the chassis. I like drawings they make it easier to "see" how things go together. In this case I'll have to make up the assemblies and check the photos.

Kev
 

Kev T

Western Thunderer
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The frames and cab go together straightforward, no problems. The only issue which surprised me was having to twist the cab sides to feed the cab between the frames. Having got a nice straight square cab, this twisting put it out of square, but easy enough to correct.

When it came to the smoke box the wrapper fits over the smokebox front and rear, but I was concerned that it's half etched and quite thin and only soldiers to the edges of these. Again my concerns were unfounded but the process of fixing it needed to be done with care as the rods which hold the front and rear apart is not rigid and allows movement. The smoke box ring fits with only slight fettling and the half etched rear saddle fits beautifully. The fit of the etch parts is really quite good.

Kev
 

Kev T

Western Thunderer
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The boiler and firebox have separate wrappers, the first photo shows the method of fixing the formers. The firebox wrapper has to be cut to size to fit. The instructions are a little sparse. Care is needed to remove the material from the correct edge so that the wrapper fits correctly against the splashers.

The firebox wrapper is half etched with greatly oversized boiler bands. I turned the wrapper over so that the bands weren't visible.
Getting a smooth fit between the boiler and firebox took some time, rubbing down and filling with solder. Any remaining marks can be hidden with a boiler band.
I took the opportunity to fill the gap in the rear former with scrap etch, drilled and tapped it so that the boiler, smoke box and firebox assembly can be removed for painting.

I'm still waiting for the wheels to arrive so that's all for a while.

Kev
 

GrahameH

Western Thunderer
Hi Kev,

I've only just found your thread and it's interesting to see that you're encountering similar problems with the build, after getting 3/4 of a Mitchell 517 build completed this is an eye opener to me, it is also the first build in decades that I have felt like throwing at the wall !

You will have to plan the spacers pretty soon as you may encounter problems with the space between the outer frames and wheels ( assuming you are using Slaters like me ? ) which would be to S7 standards if you opt for the 28mm ones.

I'm a few days into the build and also noted that the boiler wrapper is approx. 1mm too long so had to alter it, I assumed, wrongly, that because all the other etches fitted pretty well then this would be fine too.

If you haven't done so already then place the splashers on the front and scribe a line onto the boiler. I made a mistake here which meant that the front driving wheels wouldn't fit into the splashers. The etch was removed, flattened and altered then re-rolled.

I would recommend lots of dry runs before committing and totally agree that the instructions are sparse to say the least with several of the numbered etches not referred to in the written instruction and the cage to the firebox is incorrectly show in the photographs. I now understand why the late Raymond Walley remade his.

Here is where I have got to so far and also showing the alterations to the boiler in order to accommodate the wheels which will be fitted using Slaters hornblocks.

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Not the best of photographs but I think you will understand what it refers to.

G

p.s. note the two alternative footplate etches are different widths which will affect the splashers in the cab.
 
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Kev T

Western Thunderer
Hi Grahame
As you suggest I'll wait until I can get some wheels before proceeding with the fit of the boiler/splasher clearance.
I've not yet ordered the wheels for this.
I've just ordered cast wheels from JPL for a PT that I'm building. I've never used JPL before so I'll see what these wheels are like before I order for this build. I'm not a fan of Slaters wheels, but the alternative is Walsall cast wheels which require a great deal of fettling, but can be made to look very good with effort and patience, lots and lots of patience. To my eyes the Slaters wheels look clunky with oversize spokes and rims and with the drivers being so visible on this build I'm hoping not to use them. Anyone got any 6'8" Harris wheels?

Pretty sure I won't be using the 28mm spacers as I doubt it will go round 5' radius. What I might do is fix the rear drivers and use the wider cab etch to stop any shorting here.

Kev
 
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