Richards Workbench, Heljan 31s and JLTRT Class 40s
- Thread starter richard carr
- Start date
adrian
Flying Squad
It's looking good. I've just bought some delrin cogs and chain for a Sentinel project. My preference would be to use taper pins as well - so just curious where do you get your taper reamer and pins from?
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Adrian
You can buy an imperial taper pinreamer from MSC J&L industrial they are quite expensive but should last you for the rest of your life, I have had mine more than 15 years now and it is stll fine.Alternatively I'm sure ebay will be able to supply one.
J&L may sell taper pins too, if not try ebay or I can send you some I have a couple of thousand knocking about but they are a 1 in 48 taper for an imperial taper pin reamer, the metric ones are 1 in 50.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I think it probably could, I certainly had it in mind when I drew it. Its little bit wider than the JLTRT one because you need to fit 2 beams in between the frames as well as the delrin and motor and ther isn't much spare space.
One thing you might need to do though is remove the boss from slaters wheels, I did a similar thing for a 37 and the boss onthe slaters wheel protrudes an awful lot and had tobe removed completely.
Once I get a batch done I will happily send you one to try.
Richard
richard carr
Western Thunderer
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I went to the Nottingham show on Saturday to see Simon T's Aberbeeg, here are a few photos of of it. I even managed to give the 31 a run out now its got a bit of weathering on it.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Fantastic
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard ant chance of a couple of photos of the 31 and a description of how you did the weathering
John
John
richard carr
Western Thunderer
John
The first thing to say is that it is not finished yet, there is still a lot to do, mainly dry brushing now I doubt I will need the airbrush again.
To start you need 2 good photos one of each side, ther is loads on Flickr and Brian Daniels site.
These are the two I found for 31184 (three eleven eighty four)
The airbrush comes out first, mix up some black, metal cote gunmetal, a little blue and make it very thin far thinner than normal. Mix up too shades one very dark almost black so very little gunmetal and blue and one that will dry dark grey. Then try to copy the photographs with spraying it on the roof and sides and underframe. You won't be able to copy it exactly so don't try. Then after a couple of hours but no more than 24 hours use some cotton wool buds to clean off the paint you don't want, the windows will need a wipe for starters, on the body sides use an up and down motion to remove the paint. Once you have done that spray it again going over with the darker shade to get the blacker areas.
Looking at the photos you can see that some areas are almost black whilst others are just dirty with plenty of blue showing through, you can achieve most of this with gentle airbrushing, if you get too much on just wipe it off and start again a piece of kitchen tool dipped in thinners works very well.
For the front I got some dark brown mix, I think I used pheonix tack dirt or frame dirt either will do again very well thinned and just dribbled it down the outline of the connecting doors. Let it dry for a couple of hours then remove the excess with a cotton wool bud dipped in thinners (you will probably need 10) again always in an up and down motion and trying not to remove the brown in the grooves, you will if you press too hard or use too much thinners.
I also sprayed the bogie side frames and water tanks using the frame dirt and I did beofre I sprayed the black. Then sprayed black on the axle boxes and other oily bits.
Now it needs plenty of dry brushing with a light brown for the bogies and on one side of the roof a light grey as it is int he photo.
Richard
The first thing to say is that it is not finished yet, there is still a lot to do, mainly dry brushing now I doubt I will need the airbrush again.
To start you need 2 good photos one of each side, ther is loads on Flickr and Brian Daniels site.
These are the two I found for 31184 (three eleven eighty four)
The airbrush comes out first, mix up some black, metal cote gunmetal, a little blue and make it very thin far thinner than normal. Mix up too shades one very dark almost black so very little gunmetal and blue and one that will dry dark grey. Then try to copy the photographs with spraying it on the roof and sides and underframe. You won't be able to copy it exactly so don't try. Then after a couple of hours but no more than 24 hours use some cotton wool buds to clean off the paint you don't want, the windows will need a wipe for starters, on the body sides use an up and down motion to remove the paint. Once you have done that spray it again going over with the darker shade to get the blacker areas.
Looking at the photos you can see that some areas are almost black whilst others are just dirty with plenty of blue showing through, you can achieve most of this with gentle airbrushing, if you get too much on just wipe it off and start again a piece of kitchen tool dipped in thinners works very well.
For the front I got some dark brown mix, I think I used pheonix tack dirt or frame dirt either will do again very well thinned and just dribbled it down the outline of the connecting doors. Let it dry for a couple of hours then remove the excess with a cotton wool bud dipped in thinners (you will probably need 10) again always in an up and down motion and trying not to remove the brown in the grooves, you will if you press too hard or use too much thinners.
I also sprayed the bogie side frames and water tanks using the frame dirt and I did beofre I sprayed the black. Then sprayed black on the axle boxes and other oily bits.
Now it needs plenty of dry brushing with a light brown for the bogies and on one side of the roof a light grey as it is int he photo.
Richard
SimonT
Western Thunderer
Gents,
at this point I should interrupt and explain the Carr Effect. As a result of the 31 running on Havabeer on Saturday, there are now two perfectly sane individuals who have never expressed and interest in Blue Diesels who are contemplating buying a 31 and converting it S7. This is because 'we need a spare loco'. This is the Carr Effect.
Actually it is because this is a seriously good model that is well converted and which has a fabulous weathering job; get to see it boys and girls. After Richard had gone, we were about to be awarded the prize for the best converted RTR loco for my NQLTRT Western. We pointed out the mistake, but the prize would surely have been Richards if he had stayed.
Simon
at this point I should interrupt and explain the Carr Effect. As a result of the 31 running on Havabeer on Saturday, there are now two perfectly sane individuals who have never expressed and interest in Blue Diesels who are contemplating buying a 31 and converting it S7. This is because 'we need a spare loco'. This is the Carr Effect.
Actually it is because this is a seriously good model that is well converted and which has a fabulous weathering job; get to see it boys and girls. After Richard had gone, we were about to be awarded the prize for the best converted RTR loco for my NQLTRT Western. We pointed out the mistake, but the prize would surely have been Richards if he had stayed.
Coming soonish is 1963 when the first green 37 ran up the hill while 9Fs, 42/52XX and assorted panniers banked trains before steam was culled in Wales. I am afraid that the two 9Fs required for the iron ore trains might be a bit much, unless someone else can supply a second!
Simon
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon lovely layout any more photos
John
John
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Great stuff, your technique has produced a top drawer result - but what a shame the base is blue though
.Just take a look at these filthy Class 31s - see how the green and white sets off the grime and filth so much better!
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Osgood
I have a green one to do too, those photos will help thanks
Richard
I have a green one to do too, those photos will help thanks
Richard
Osgood
Western Thunderer
OK I'll take you off the Green Group's priority target list!
Below is the image (of a 4mm scale model I think) that actually started me off collecting prototype images for when I make an attempt - it is a superb example of weathering art, but I've absolutely no idea where I found it now!
Tony
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I have a few pictures of green ones as well, but not as filthy as these two.
Let me know when you're ready and I'll put copies up.
Best regards.
Brian
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
I can offer these two shots from my files.......gonna build one eventualy
Col.
Col.
Osgood
Western Thunderer
My thoughts exactly. I just found the link to that photo - about 1/2 way down the page. Perhaps the 1970s and EM gauge wasn't so bad
:http://emgauge70s.co.uk/project_class26-31.html