7mm Richard's 9f workbench

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by richard carr, 30 December 2020.

  1. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    It's over 3 weeks since I updated this thread, I have been too busy weathering Dapol Mark 1s.
    This weekend though I have got back to the tenders. Only 1 tender needs a water scoop, the BR 1F one, the other 3 don't have one fitted as the Tyne dock 9fs didn't have them (all other 9fs did) and the tender for the 76000 didn't have one either as they were originally allocated to the southern region which didn't have any water troughs.

    The water scoop has some nice castings which go together very well, you just need to carefully follow the instructions

    20210324_174001.jpg

    Here I'm adding the cross shaft for the, there is a nice bearing casting for left end and the right hand end has the operating lever attached to it and a rod then connects to another leaver at the front of the tender.

    20210403_161828.jpg

    This is the front end and the operating leaver will fit between the triangular etches so that the rod runs behind the wheels. The other end connects to the winding handle on the front of the tender (not on the model though.
    The instructions mention that all this is hidden so could be omitted !

    20210403_191120.jpg

    The chassis is now largely complete, these are the wheels that MOK sell to go with the kit, they are on 4mm axles and one wheel screws into the axle.
    There is a lot of side play like this and I find it is much easier to fit the brake gear if you use some spacing washers to remove the side play, once located between the frames there is next to no side play anyway.

    The brake stretchers are too short for S7 but the brakes are in the right place. All the stretchers were drilled out 0.8mm and 0.7mm wire used for the rodding.

    20210403_191609.jpg

    I also primed the body the other week, so here is the tender so far.

    20210403_192243.jpg

    20210403_192250.jpg
     
  2. chigley

    chigley Active Member

    someone told me to put talc on the file to stop clogging. i dont know if it works, not having tried it yet. Ken
     
  3. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Now I'm painting the tenders it is time to start on the locos themselves. I will generally be following the instructions as Dave's are very good.

    The first thing in the instructions is to sort out the brass castings for the spring hangars, these need a lot of drilling and tapping.

    20210415_224020.jpg

    Here they are all lined up for all 3 locos. There was a packing error in the early kits and the end single castings were incorrectly packed all being the same had when there are separate left and right hand castings and you need 2 of each for each loco. 2 of my kits had this problem but a quick call to Dave Sharp and they the correct parts were with me the next day. I needed 3 replacements you can see the extras on the right in the photo. There are also a few known errors in the instructions, these are detailed on the MOK website.

    All the tapping is required so that you can remove the springs to allow the wheelsets to drop out, you could skip that but removing the wheelsets once the springs go in would be time consuming but not impossible. The brakes are still going to get in the way too.

    20210416_121723.jpg

    20210416_121811.jpg

    These are the 12ba holes, you do need to be bit careful tapping them as the tap ends up pressing against the side of the casting, I started out with a 2nd tap and ended up with plug tap after it broke, but a bit of work with a diamond file soon had back in working order. The instructions suggest drilling a 2mm hole in the side of the casting above each hole that needs tapping, that would have been 30 2mm holes for me to drill, no thanks.

    All these have been tapped 12 BA, they also need some 14 ba holes tapped in them too, but as I couldn't find my tap I am waiting until a new one arrives !




    Richard
     
  4. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Progress continues, all the spring hangars have now been soldered onto the frames, the castings have been drilled out and tapped 14 BA as required, the clearance holes and the 0.8mm wire holes are still to be drilled.
    It is much easier to drill the holes for tapping 14BA etc once they spring castings have attached to the frames, the castings are much easier to hold and you can easily see which hole needs to be drilled for each size.

    Here are the 6 frames with the spring hangars attached.

    20210423_190754.jpg

    Below you can see the 12 BA holes these want drilling and tapping before the castings are fixed tot he frames

    20210424_134531.jpg

    These are the 14BA holes which I would recommend drilling after you have added the castings to the frames

    20210424_141407_HDR.jpg

    The next task is to add the hornblocks and the rear compensation beams. In the above photo you can see the 3/32nd bearing for the rear compensation beam, this gets trapped in place once you add the hornblocks, hence why it needs to be done now.

    20210504_173301.jpg

    Here is a frame with the hornblocks added and the rear compensation beam in place.

    The next stage is to make up some of the chassis cross member sub assemblies

    20210429_173208.jpg

    So these bits with a few nuts go together to make these.

    20210504_171407.jpg

    The big sub assembly are the front compensation beam supports.
     
  5. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    This is Just Brilliant
     
  6. dibateg

    dibateg Western Thunderer

    They look a lot more refined than the DJH ones Richard. The MOK kit wasn't even on the horizon when I built three 9Fs. There is a lot of repetitive work when you have to prep 15 sets of drivers! I had a right do with the motion bracket as the left one in the kit didn't look right at all. I'm enjoying seeing your locos come together ( and slightly jealous! ).
    P1020584.JPG

    Regards
    Tony
     
  7. Ian_C

    Ian_C Western Thunderer

    Loving the workbench clutter in the background of some photos. Spotting the tools in use and what's moved between sessions is quite the game!
     
    Donald Campbell likes this.
  8. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    my issue is finding my tools on my workbench, especially the scalpel/tweezers/screwdriver that I am sure I put down just here, only a minute ago...
     
  9. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Simon I know how you feel, I can never find the right file when I need it.

    Richard
     
  10. farnetti

    farnetti Western Thunderer

    No point in tidying up though, impossible to find anything then!

    Ken
     
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  11. chigley

    chigley Active Member

    its not just me then. Ken
     
  12. Terry Howlett

    Terry Howlett Active Member

    Fairly new here and just discovered this thread. Wow! So I like 9F's a lot (and I mean a lot), and have a 4mm DJH kit with a Dave Bradwell chassis, for when I get brave enough to go for it. I started the DJH kit some years ago before getting seriously hooked by the hobby, and deciding it needs to be P4. You can see it in my Avatar.
    Seeing this beautiful locomotive being built in numbers, in 7mm is simply awesome. Like Simon mentioned above, I love the shots showing an immensely tool cluttered workbench. That gives me some hope, as mine is similar, but I am at the start of my learning curve, and you are clearly light years ahead of me!
    A very inspirational thread which I will follow with relish!

    Terry
     
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  13. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    I made quite a bit more progress last weekend. I have now been able to assemble all 3 sets of frames.

    There are lots of frame spacers to add in addition to the sub assemblies I made before hand.

    20210504_212332.jpg

    20210504_212302.jpg

    20210508_160431.jpg

    As you add the frame spacers you will also need to add the front compensation beams. if you don't solder in the compensation beam supports (they can be fixed with screws) they are removable but I didn't find the need to.

    20210508_160912.jpg

    This is the very rear most spacer the casting needs to be pushed over the frames to get everything to fit.

    20210508_161155.jpg

    This set of frames is for a Consett 9f so in the middle you can see the supports for the air pumps.

    20210508_180252.jpg

    Here are the 2 that will be Consett locos. At this point the frames have not been soldered together, they are just held together by the tabs about 50 on each side.

    20210509_100841_HDR.jpg

    I forgot to add this spacer to one of the frames, it also has the ashpan support casting fitted to it, but it was very easy to trim the tabs and snap this into place in the frames.

    20210509_100849.jpg

    The big gap is where it needs to go.

    20210509_121319.jpg

    All snapped into place.

    20210509_121334.jpg

    I now have all 3 frame sets made up held together by the tabs, they are very solid like this so I decided to add the wheels and coupling rods to one of them to make sure they work, as at this point it would be very easy to take things apart if it doesn't !

    So I started making the coupling rods, each one is a 3 piece lamination in 0.45mm nickel silver. The top and bottom rods in the above picture are from the kit, the central rod is the same one but one that I CNC machined from solid nickel silver about 15 years ago. To say the least the kit rods look a bit wimpy, the photograph below gives you a better idea.

    20210509_121355.jpg

    I bought all the coupling rod drawings from the NRM when I did mine so I'm fairly sure I got the dimensions right and if you go and look at a real 9f one thing you will notice is how massive the centre wheel connecting and coupling rods are. I have one more full set of CNC machined rods but I think I will need to do a new etch for the others to beef them up to the scale size. For now though I will make these up and see how they look
    20210509_124600_HDR.jpg
     
  14. john lewsey

    john lewsey Western Thunderer

    You are right Richard the machined center rod looks so much better
    John
     
    Len Cattley likes this.
  15. Mike Garwood

    Mike Garwood Western Thunderer

    Wonderful work! I completely agree with John machined rods look what they ought to be. I've tried building a 9f, 3 times in P4, each one of them ending in the bin!

    I have a question...where are the drive units going to sit (motor and gearbox) - or have I missed something?

    Mike
     
    Deano747 likes this.
  16. Len Cattley

    Len Cattley Western Thunderer

    Something I need to do when I build the loco Richard. Are you going to CNC the other rods for the rest of the other two loco's or are you going to use the kit rods?

    Len
     
  17. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Mike

    The driven axle will most likely be the rear axle, but it might be the one in front of it I haven't decided yet.

    Richard
     
  18. richard carr

    richard carr Western Thunderer

    Len

    I have one set of CNC rods which I shall use, but I don't have the means to do anymore at this time. I may do some new etches. I have all the NRM drawings somewhere I just need to find them.

    Richard
     
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  19. Dan Randall

    Dan Randall Western Thunderer

    I received my first Dapol Mk1 a couple of days ago (a maroon BSK - very nice!) and would be very interested in seeing the results of your weathering sessions. :)


    Regards

    Dan
     
  20. Scale7JB

    Scale7JB Western Thunderer

    Huge difference on those rods, quite surprised by the kit offerings.

    JB.