7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)

[Pencarrow]

After a early morning yesterday, for a day in a client's London office, I was also awake stupid early this morning. Decided to make the most of the time and do some more on the buildings.

So, I started by digging some 20thou out of the stash. Not sure how long I've had this but it's not been 40p a sheet for some years...and I don't think Mercian Models is around anymore!



In my now usual method, the 20thou was cut in to ruler-width strips and those were applied in a lattice to the roof formers. Photos show work part way through...





So a couple of points to note with this method:
# the first layer of horizontal strips sit inside the perimeter walls. This provides something for the wall to rest against.
# the top of the perimeter walls are then filed flat to the top of the first 20thou layer so that the join is flush.
# the use of strips enables access under the plasticard to apply solvent. It's a bit tricky trying to glue down one single sheet covering the entire roof and in the past they have come loose.
# the vertical noggins between the roof formers are deliberately cut short. This enables access for a glue brush underneath. It also provides an escape route for solvent vapours.
# the gaps in between the first layer of strips aid getting solvent to the joint between the lower edge of the strip and the vertical former.
# the next layer of strips runs at 90deg to the first and butt up against each other. These strips go over the wall edge and provide support to the tiles. This second layer also uses up the offcuts from the first and second layers, so very little waste.
# the roof will remain a separate, removable module which enables continued access to the building interior for window fitting, painting, detailing and future repairs.

This method is particularly good for forming uneven and sagging roofs, like on the grain store and wharf buildings. The roof formers can be cut to different profiles and the first layer of strips easier take the shape. The gaps between the first layer of strips help the strips curve and bend to the profile.

Depending upon the degree of sag, the second layer of strips may need the edge shape adjusting to form a butt joint. The result though is a tough roof that will keep it's shape and not come loose over time.

Any thoughts on this approach from others? Experience of other methods?

 

[Pencarrow]

Roof now formed and setting. Just waiting for the York Model Making self adhesive tiles to arrive. In the meantime, I'm going to do a bit more on the other end...

 

[Pencarrow]

Any thoughts on this approach from others? Experience of other methods?

I'm assuming from the nil response to this question that either:
1. I bored everyone to death before they reached the question or
2. Nobody else on the forum makes buildings or
3. There's a hesitancy or reluctance to engage with this thread

So thinking more about the above reasons...
1. Are the posts too long, detailed or dull? I do generally also use a lot of photos as they are the 'currency of the forum'.
2. WT can be somewhat stock centric. Nothing wrong with that but I'd like to think there are others on here that enjoy making buildings.
3. Perhaps I'm a scary person or what I'm doing is so far beyond other mortals that comment is not possible. On the first count I hope not, on the second I find that laughably unlikely.

There's discussion on a @mickoo thread about 'like' vs comment. Perhaps the lack of two-way conversation is the WT way? Whilst I fully agree that 'like' is preferable to one or two word responses clogging up a thread, it would be nice though to have some conversation. It's a bit dull talking to myself.

 

[Rob R]

I'll chip in.
I have no experience of making buildings of this size in plasticard (or anything else) so I can only look on in wonder at your grand edifice.
You will have to put up with "likes" after that.....

 

[76043]

As a former architectural modelmaker I am naturally interested, but I have to be honest the strengthening confused me at first, I thought you were making a library. (Not actually joking) Then I realised it's sensible but must be a lot of work.

I'm currently building a large warehouse in my Dublingham thread from cardboard. It's showing signs of sagging and needs remedial work. My buildings built to full Scalescenes spec have double layer skins and as such show no signs of sagging. My warehouse has been done on the cheap and so needs attention.

I've never used limonene, but clearly it's the way to go. I guess your method lends itself to keeping everything lightweight. Please keep posting and let us know if the sagging is kept away.

I don't think the old WT joke of nothing behind the tender is still current.

Cheers
Tony

 

[simond]

I’m fully in agreement with Rob.

My building experience is very much limited to MDF, a few kits and my loco shed, which was described in some detail on t’other channel, and my plasticard experience is centred around modifications to vehicles, and other small details.

so I look out for posts, read with interest, ask the odd question, and hit the like button to show I’m awake somewhere towards the rear of the classroom…

 

[Heather Kay]

What the others said.

I’ve built a few kit buildings, and bodged some scratch bits here and there, but otherwise I’m just here for the skills on show.

 

[AJC]

I'd put this thread to the back of my mind to catch up on (for my eyes, the images of white plastic construction need a larger screen). The buildings are an impressive scale and - unusually for 0 - depth.

I haven't contemplated buildings of this bulk (even in 4mm) and badly sagging roofs aren't all that common so the thought of replicating the effect isn't something that had occurred to me. I can see how it will work, and it looks reasonably* secure, technically.

Having seen the back of some quite large and durable 0 gauge buildings (Yeovil MRG's Gasworks), I did wonder about the reinforcements - what thickness are you using for the main walls? 60 thou'? I think that's what most of the Gasworks buildings use but the larger ones are about 2mm and they aren't braced nearly that heavily and are about 30 years old now (I think they used Chloroform - Bob Oaksford was a vet so could lay hands on the stuff which had some similar properties to Limonene, but was obviously, a bit... well, the clubrooms were well ventilated).

Adam

* I mean that it really should work, but plastic sheet does what it does, and I can never be sure anything I do will work 100% of the time.

 

[Dan Randall]

Are the posts too long, detailed or dull? I do generally also use a lot of photos as they are the 'currency of the forum'.

Whilst I fully agree that 'like' is preferable to one or two word responses clogging up a thread, it would be nice though to have some conversation. It's a bit dull talking to myself.

Hi Chris

Your posts are anything but long and dull, so please don’t think about scrimping on words or pictures.

For whatever reason, your layout thread seemed to be dormant for a while, but now it’s back, I eagerly look forward to any updates, be it buildings, locos, rolling stock or scenics.

As far as conversation goes, I would be very interested to know how you achieved the concrete finish on these lineside huts and ballast bin please….
The colour of weathered concrete, is a fiendish thing to replicate, but I do like seeing convincing examples and think you’ve nailed it here.


Regards

Dan

 

[SimonT]

Chris,
none of the three. I'm still trying to get my mind to picture what you are doing and how. This is mental activity is competing with me trying to build a large station building and having just hit a brick wall - literally. SE Fincast sheets have been my choice for years. I bought some more a few months ago and now find them to be rubbish as they are missed formed and the courses do not run true.
Have a question back! Any recommendation for a good alternative?
Simon

 

[Dog Star]

This method is particularly good for forming uneven and sagging roofs, like on the grain store and wharf buildings. The roof formers can be cut to different profiles and the first layer of strips easier take the shape. The gaps between the first layer of strips help the strips curve and bend to the profile.

Any thoughts on this approach from others? Experience of other methods?

I like the use of more than one layer of plastic for the roof as that approach allows uneven roofing as well as detering excess solvent becoming trapped between layers - overall the idea seems to have benefits over how I would have approached the model.

 

[Dog Star]

I'm assuming from the nil response to this question that either:
1. I bored everyone to death before they reached the question or
2. Nobody else on the forum makes buildings or
3. There's a hesitancy or reluctance to engage with this thread

1/ no, still breathing.
2/ no, have done bricks and mortar, just not recently.
3/ no, hesitant maybe, reluctant no.

I have difficulty in offering comment when I agree with / appreciate what is being shown.

So thinking more about the above reasons...
1. Are the posts too long, detailed or dull? I do generally also use a lot of photos as they are the 'currency of the forum'.
2. WT can be somewhat stock centric. Nothing wrong with that but I'd like to think there are others on here that enjoy making buildings.
3. Perhaps I'm a scary person or what I'm doing is so far beyond other mortals that comment is not possible. On the first count I hope not, on the second I find that laughably unlikely.

1/ no, the photos and comment are complimentary, maybe a little dry at times.
2/ agree.
3/ seems a nice enough chap.

There's discussion on a @mickoo thread about 'like' vs comment. Perhaps the lack of two-way conversation is the WT way? Whilst I fully agree that 'like' is preferable to one or two word responses clogging up a thread, it would be nice though to have some conversation. It's a bit dull talking to myself.

Maybe I ought to go back to the start and re-take the journey... with a dictaphone as a companion.

regards, Graham

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I'm assuming from the nil response to this question that either:
1. I bored everyone to death before they reached the question or
2. Nobody else on the forum makes buildings or
3. There's a hesitancy or reluctance to engage with this thread

So thinking more about the above reasons...
1. Are the posts too long, detailed or dull? I do generally also use a lot of photos as they are the 'currency of the forum'.
2. WT can be somewhat stock centric. Nothing wrong with that but I'd like to think there are others on here that enjoy making buildings.
3. Perhaps I'm a scary person or what I'm doing is so far beyond other mortals that comment is not possible. On the first count I hope not, on the second I find that laughably unlikely.

There's discussion on a @mickoo thread about 'like' vs comment. Perhaps the lack of two-way conversation is the WT way? Whilst I fully agree that 'like' is preferable to one or two word responses clogging up a thread, it would be nice though to have some conversation. It's a bit dull talking to myself.

At the end of the day you are damned if you do and damned if you don't when it comes to posting on fora.

From a personal perspective I admire your approach and zeal for building construction as it provides a refreshing change from the de rigueur metal kits and an insight into the often neglected use of plasticard/styrene sheet (to me anyway). As such I do look at your thread here to see the latest developments, the approach to modelling different building vernaculars and perhaps dip in with an odd comment, question or two where I cannot work out what has been done from the photos.

Your thread here also proves modelling railways is not all about trains and the number of rivets on any given item of rolling stock, locomotive etc, etc. To me it's about creating an overall impression of an instantly recognisable locale.

Personally and as other correspondents have noted elsewhere on this forum (@mickoo thread) I have joined them in restricting or not even posting any progress on my own modelling (German HO, British and US O) despite modelling techniques being universal. Where I do decide to I just now post a photo of the model before and after with a very very brief or almost non-existent summary of what I have done.

 

[Pencarrow]

Thanks folks for the input, I'll have a good read and get back to you after work.

 

[JasonBz]

Despite having pleased my self sticking bits of this and that together to make small areas of built environment for over 40 years, I am rather out of touch with what one may call modern methods.
Reading any of your posts is always both educational and entertaining - But to pass anything more than the odd comment or snippet of prototype info would feel a bit like me telling Cristiano Ronaldo how to be a better footballer!

 

[Pencarrow]

Despite having pleased my self sticking bits of this and that together to make small areas of built environment for over 40 years, I am rather out of touch with what one may call modern methods.
Reading any of your posts is always both educational and entertaining - But to pass anything more than the odd comment or snippet of prototype info would feel a bit like me telling Cristiano Ronaldo how to be a better footballer!

Don't worry about that, if you're feeling out of touch with these new fangled modern methods* I'm more than happy to answer questions.

*I'm not sure what I do is new or fangled. One of the reasons I like discussion and feedback is that it promotes thought and challenge of what I'm doing.

 

[michael mott]

Chris As a former Architectural Modelbuilder (mostly) I agree with Graham's and Dave's answers to your questions. Most of the buildings I made and some were huge (skyscrapers 4 feet high) cast in polyester resin type stuff and mostly plexiglass with a lot of styrene as surface dressing. I am really enjoying following your progress. the multiple layer approach to allow for solvent evaporation and access makes sense with thin materials. I tend to use material that does not require so much reinforcement. and have no compunctions about mixing materials, I need to head off now to watch my grandson play in a hockey tournament in support of a children's hospital so will come back to your thread when I get back home.

Michael

 

[Pencarrow]

Chris,
none of the three. I'm still trying to get my mind to picture what you are doing and how. This is mental activity is competing with me trying to build a large station building and having just hit a brick wall - literally. SE Fincast sheets have been my choice for years. I bought some more a few months ago and now find them to be rubbish as they are missed formed and the courses do not run true.
Have a question back! Any recommendation for a good alternative?
Simon

Yes, they are my first choice in 7mm (and 4mm too) for various finishes. I've also seen them mis-registered, which is an issue on brickwork but not the stone finishes.

The mis-registered sheet got used for thin 2-3 course strips. After that experience I've taken to buying the sheets at shows and casting an eye over the sheets for errors.

In terms of alternatives, other than a few basic sheets from Slaters, I'm not aware of anything but I'm always on the lookout. IMO the best thing about the SEF sheets is the variety of brick bonds that are available.

 

[Dog Star]

What is Pencarrow? My initial thoughts were a smallish shunting layout based on Wenford Bridge.... As this journey unwound the low-key Wenford-esq buildings have slowly been replaced by those from around Bodmin North.
I don't however plan to build Bodmin North, although it's a relatively small scale station, it's far bigger than my domestic environment allows.

Track Plan and Standards
As intimated in the intro the track plan has evolved over the last few years, with the handing and position of various features moving around

So it's a big commitment and needs to be right. Through 2016 I started worrying that the plan I had was a little bit too much like a bog standard BLT and not enough like Bodmin North. In a break with the tradition on most BLTs I therefore decide to bring the platform to the front and, on the left two boards, copy as close as I could the layout of Bodmin North.

The photo below shows the 1:10 mock up I made showing the revised plan, with the layout taking shape behind.
View attachment 79413

Your introduction and progress to this point tell a good story which is embodied in the scale model seen in the previous photo. Making a scale model seems to be a beneficial piece of work and shall remain as a reminder of intent through the (future) good and not-so-good times.

regards, Graham

 

[Dog Star]

Board Construction
So far I've made 3 of the 4 scenic boards. The boards have been hand bodged by me using birch ply from a timber merchant in Coalville...

Construction looks sound. There are no diagonals to deter twisting, are the beams to achieve the same thing?

regards, Graham