Painting and lining

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Started a few paint jobs today, a couple of which are from Sancheng. One is a Jubilee in Factory finished green and the other a brass Crab.
I will try to show and explain how i go about finishing these locos. First job on the painted loco is to improve the factory finish which is poor. The colours are all wrong (the blacks ok:)) and are also far too flat and have a gritty texture.

001.JPG

The first job is to dismantle the model into its basic sub assemblies then mask off the cab roof and smokebox. Then I give it a coat of cellulose red oxide as a base coat. This is celly paint not primer. Only cellulose paint works, experience has taught me that it is the only type of paint which will bond to the factory paint work.

Now a coat of cellulose deep bronze green can be applied, this gives a lovely smooth gloss finish.

006.JPG


When compared to the original factory finish its easy to see the improvement. This procedure takes only half an hour from start to finish and is well worth the effort. The loco is now left for a couple of hours for the cellulose to fully harden.

008.JPG

007.JPG

The above picture shows repainted finish on left and factory finish on right. Although the colours look similar , they are quite different, just my average photography skills.
The Crab has been scrubbed with viakal and will be left to dry off overnight before a coat of etching primer is applied.
Start the lining tomorrow.....

Warren
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Hi,

Not sure what happened with the images. I've just run a test post and managed to upload a photo, others are posting photos in other threads. After uploading the photo's I presume you clicked on the insert full size or thumbnail image. If you are still having problems then you could try emailing them to me and I'll see if I can upload them for you.

Regards

Adrian
 

TheSnapper

Western Thunderer
Hi Warren

Great finish on that tender! I too have seen some of your fab work on the Guild Forums.

Any chance of more details on paint & thinners used (make/BS number,ratio) & equipment, spraying pressure used etc?

Cheers

Tim
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Tim,
The paint i use is Clostermann cellulose, its hard wearing and very smooth, the black is particularly good. Its available from a company in Swindon called AP Western.

I mix it 1part paint to 2or3 parts thinners, which must be high gloss easyflow, this allows a slightly longer drying time (1 minute rather than a few seconds) so that the paint can settle out and stops a sandpaper finish.

I spray at about 15psi, a mist to start with then a heavy 'thug' spray, which takes practice but gives that wondorful smooth glossy finish which only celly does.

For the green i use BS 224 deep bronze green
The oxide can be any redish brown, i use RAL3009

Hope this helps

Warren
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Tim,

Only on the factory painted models, it seams to fill out better than the green toget rid of the crap finish. On brass models a light coat of etch primer then straight on with the green.

Right, on with the lining now:)

Warren
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Now that the cellulose has fully hardened the lining can start.

Tools required are a good ruling pen, a ruling pen compass, some dividers for setting out distances from edges and also line widths, a good quality size 00 brush and a heavy steel ruler which will not slip.

003.JPG

The straight lines are rulled on first, set 1.3mm apart which is 2 1/4" in o gauge and 3mm in from the edge which is about 5"

004.JPG

With a damp brush the lines can be cut back to the correct length, to allow for a 4" radius curve.

View attachment 17140

The smudges can be wiped away with a dry cotton bud after 24hrs then the black line will be added

Warren
 
S

SteveO

Guest
When you say damp brush, is it water or thinners? Lovely work, by the way. Have seen your paint and lining on the GOG site and was always very impressed.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
002.JPG Got some paint on the crab, firstly sprayed gloss black then cab roof, footplate, smokebox and tender coalspace sprayed matt black. Once this receives a coat of laquer at the end the difference will be less drastic although visible. I think this makes a big difference to black locos.
 
Top