7mm OzzyO is back building a Dave Parkins' kit (and some JLTRT Coaches as well). Now on to some MMP 16ton wagon kits.

Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Western Thunderer
Simon,

I have Paasche air eraser, see link below. The description outlines its uses, it does need a decent compressor with a tank that is able to deliver a good supply of air. The air must also be dry, moisture is a killer with the fine abrasives used. For harder work removing solder I use it at 65psi and lower pressures for finer operations.

Paasche Air Eraser Kit | Remove Colours | Remove Rust

all the best
Tim
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I am not sure if a filter would be needed for a grit blaster anyway :)
A condensate drain might be useful, but a filter?

Michael
It's a filter and moisture trap, the last thing that you want in a grit blaster is moisture the same when painting. At about £20 it's not worth looking for just a water trap.

Ozzy,

I’m 99% sure you can unscrew the “glass” bowl and put the disc back where it belongs, might need a drop of uhu to keep it there.

I don’t think it’ll matter tbh.

Atb
Simon

The last time I tried to open one the bowl sheared off but I'll give it a go.

Phil
Allegedly it does, but not required with a good etch primer.
I’ve just painted an LSWR X2 built by Lawrie Griffin which had been grit blasted and although clean the brass is slightly roughened. As I use celly paint it means it requires more coats and rub downs to achieve that mirror finish which I try to achieve. If using enamel paints then it’s no so bad as the paint has more filling properties than cellulose.

Warren,

I think that a lot has to do with the grit type and size . I'm using aluminium oxide about 120 grit (just measured some and it works out at 0.02mm just under a thou.). But if you use 60 grit, if have got my maths correct that will increase in size by 4 so the grains will be approx. 0.08mm (over 2 thou.) a lot of other thing come into play as well like air pressure distance from the model etc. (a bit like painting). I tend to run at about 80 PSI in and out as quick as poss..
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I was talking to Martyn 3 link over the weekend and mentioned that I had got a new bending tool that's 300mm long and he mentioned that I should put it up on here.
I got it from a company called hiroboy (on the web), the approx. sizes are 300mm X 70mm weight 21/2 lb, the company that makes them are called RPtoolz. Cost including P&P £65. Out of interest my 8" hold and fold weighs in at approx. 15oz.
IMG_2107.JPG

OzzyO.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2107.JPG
    IMG_2107.JPG
    105 KB · Views: 17

tomburnham

Member
Hello all,

I was talking to Martyn 3 link over the weekend and mentioned that I had got a new bending tool that's 300mm long and he mentioned that I should put it up on here.
I got it from a company called hiroboy (on the web), the approx. sizes are 300mm X 70mm weight 21/2 lb, the company that makes them are called RPtoolz. Cost including P&P £65. Out of interest my 8" hold and fold weighs in at approx. 15oz.
View attachment 137880

OzzyO.

Thanks for that OzzyO,

For anyone else who may be interested, here's a link to the folding bending tool. They also do shorter 18 cm, 13 cm and 8 cm versions as well as other useful tools. I've bookmarked the site for future reference.

Tom.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I'm having a brake from the bogies for a short time as I'm going to build four of them at the same time two for the TPO and two for the BG. So I have decided to start on the BG underframes. I have read the two threads on building D. J. P. Mk 1s and I'm coming up with a third way to build part of the underframes (will it come back and bite me on the bum?)
First some phots of the underframe etches.etches 2 UF.JPG
etches 3 UF.JPG
etches 9 UF.JPG

The first two photos show the solebars after I had scored the bend line a bit deeper so that it shows up on the outside face.
UF 1.JPG UF 2.JPG
The next bit was fun, folding the solebars this is in my new folding tool and you can see how much is outside of it but slow and steady and you get there. I may make a new set of folding bars [remember when we could go into one?] at about 20" in length that should be big enough for anything that I'm going to build (I hope)?
UF 3.JPG
The next job was to fold up the buffer beams and the angles on the trusses. My idea for the underframe trusses is to tack solder the middle cross angle frame into place.
UF 4.JPG
Then to tack solder the two inner end cross angles into place (that's after taking the two inner trusses off and replacing them).
UF 6.JPG

Then it will be two at a time until I get to the last two that will be the one's that are nearest to the buffer beams, this is due to them having two small overlays that fit through the main truss beams, Then tack solder the trusses in to place. If after that, if the frames are still flat the solebars will go on, then all of the tack joints will get soldered up.
UF 8.JPG

By for now
and keep safe,

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Well plan one didn't start to work so onto plan two that I made up on the spot! but before that the first part of the plan. Sorting out the main trusses.UF 10.JPG

This involves soldering up some of the folded joints.
UF 11.JPG

I didn't quit get it on this one.

After that was sorted, it was on to the cross trusses only tack soldered at this time.
UF 13.JPG

Then it was to tack solder one of the main truss beams in place and try and keep the frame flat.
UF 16.JPG

After that it was to try the second main truss in place, a very small bit of filing was required at one end (it could have been me as most of the bits just fit).
UF 18.JPG

More to follow if you want me to do so?

Keep safe,

OzzyO.
 

Attachments

  • UF 14.JPG
    UF 14.JPG
    105.7 KB · Views: 11
  • UF 15.JPG
    UF 15.JPG
    58.3 KB · Views: 10
  • UF 17.JPG
    UF 17.JPG
    49.3 KB · Views: 9
  • UF 19.JPG
    UF 19.JPG
    63.1 KB · Views: 12
  • UF 9.JPG
    UF 9.JPG
    192.6 KB · Views: 10
  • UF 12.JPG
    UF 12.JPG
    119.3 KB · Views: 8

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

just had a quick hour or so in the workshop.
I decided to change the tip on the soldering iron from the old one that I was using to another old one of a different shape, both are well used and well tinned., both are about the same age and usage but of different shapes.
But one just seems to work so much better. Why should that be?

It may seem a daft question but after a lay off for a couple of years you can forget the simple bits.

Keep safe,

OzzyO.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Hi Ozzy,

could be a few things; here are three suggestions:

Is there a difference in the tip weight? Heavier, probably better, more available heat at same temperature.
Is there a difference in the contact patch with the job? Closer contact over bigger area will be better heat transfer to job.
Is one bit cleaner on the inside that the other? Cleaner will definitely help heat transfer from element to bit.

always assuming they’re both tinned with the same solder of course!

Hope this helps
All the best
Simon
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
... or the shorter one is the better, because of superior heat transfer.

Regarding you underframe. I had problems fitting the hand brake details at a later stage. It might be easier to fit them now.

Michael
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

Simon, I weighed the tips and within 1grm, the main difference is that one is a V shaped chisel and the other one is a wedge. Back to my old favourite one now.
Michael, I did think about adding parts 55 - 58 before adding the main trusses wish that I had done so. I will be doing that on the next one that I build.
uf 23.JPG

Adding the outer flanges using my old bit of wood. If your of a nervous disposition don't look.
uf 22.JPG
All of the outer flanges fitted.
uf 24.JPG
The next job was to fit all of the small (L angle parts) I'm not sure if the work was worth the end result?
uf 25.JPG uf 26.JPG
The next job is going to be fitting parts 51 - 58 that looks like fun (not). Or I may give it a quick blast just to take off some of the grot that has not come off with a quick wash.

Keep safe

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

it's been a while since I did an update on this build, the first two of ten bogies taking shape (I ended up getting four B. G. kits). It looks like my plan to build the bogies in chunks is working at the moment. The horn guides have been fixed in place using super glue.
Bogie 005.JPG

Bogie 006.JPG

Both of the bogies from underneath, the one on the left is showing the slot in the end cross member for the dynamo belt. You can also see the dressmakers pins that I'm using for the brake hanger pivots.
Bogie 007.JPG

Axle boxes in place just to see that they would move up and down freely, this they did after I removed any excess super glue.
Bogie 008.JPG

This was when I hit a problem! The axle boxes with the bearings and wheels in place won't fit into the frames.
Bogie 009.JPG

After doing some measurements these are the figures I got.

54.6 over axle boxes with wheels etc. in place.
52.8 over axle boxes in frames no wheels etc. in place.
1.8 difference

So do I just take off .9mm from the back of the axle boxes? This would make the inside guide face of the axle box very thin.
Mill the back face down to the slot and fix some thin brass to the back? A lot of work when I have got 80 axel boxes to do..
Counter bore the bearing hole? Then the problem that the wheel boss could rub on the inside face of the axle box.
Remove some metal off the inside face of the axle boxes and some of the ends of the axles? This is a lot of work but it could be the best bet.

The reason that I don't want the wheel bosses to touch the axle boxes is that I'm using the new Slater's all steel wheels that have the proper profile on both sides and are axle isolated.

Bogie 010.JPG
Bogie 011.JPG

Keep safe

OzzyO.
 

markjj

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

it's been a while since I did an update on this build, the first two of ten bogies taking shape (I ended up getting four B. G. kits). It looks like my plan to build the bogies in chunks is working at the moment. The horn guides have been fixed in place using super glue.
View attachment 157420

View attachment 157421

Both of the bogies from underneath, the one on the left is showing the slot in the end cross member for the dynamo belt. You can also see the dressmakers pins that I'm using for the brake hanger pivots.
View attachment 157422

Axle boxes in place just to see that they would move up and down freely, this they did after I removed any excess super glue.
View attachment 157423

This was when I hit a problem! The axle boxes with the bearings and wheels in place won't fit into the frames.
View attachment 157424

After doing some measurements these are the figures I got.

54.6 over axle boxes with wheels etc. in place.
52.8 over axle boxes in frames no wheels etc. in place.
1.8 difference

So do I just take off .9mm from the back of the axle boxes? This would make the inside guide face of the axle box very thin.
Mill the back face down to the slot and fix some thin brass to the back? A lot of work when I have got 80 axel boxes to do..
Counter bore the bearing hole? Then the problem that the wheel boss could rub on the inside face of the axle box.
Remove some metal off the inside face of the axle boxes and some of the ends of the axles? This is a lot of work but it could be the best bet.

The reason that I don't want the wheel bosses to touch the axle boxes is that I'm using the new Slater's all steel wheels that have the proper profile on both sides and are axle isolated.

View attachment 157425
View attachment 157426

Keep safe

OzzyO.
If I remember right and stand corrected when DJP appears. On Simon Varnam's build I believe he took 2mm off the axle ends and counter bored the axle boxes so the bearing top hat sat flush. I'm not sure if Heather or Mr Grumpy documented it on their coach builds.
It's a shame.Simon's site has gone its.little gems.like this that people need.
 

parky

Western Thunderer
Quality work on such a challenging, but quality kit
I stalled on the same axle fitting issue and too read somewhere about cutting down the axles and the axle box modification. Must dig them out one day and get them finished
The underframe is a work of art and fits together like you wouldn't believe. It's a shame that David's manufacturing process doesn't allow the underframe to be sold separately as I would build a few more just to be able to see them in all their glory
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I got back into the workshop a couple of days back to restart drilling out the axle boxes only for my pillar drill to just stop after drilling two holes! It has not seized, the fuse is alright, so I'm hoping that it's the on/off switch or a loose wire that I can fix.

So I ended up doing some web surfing and ended up on the Aldi web site looking at tool DIY etc, nice compressor on the site at about £90.00 not for me I've got one (from Aldi). But I did spot a digital calliper for about £12.00 nothing wrong with my Vernier that I've had for nearly 45 years (it's my eyes). So I bought one, it's made in China so a bit of a tidy up on the rough edges and the jobs a good un. The next job with it is to check it against some of my block gauges.
IMG_4276.JPG
ATB

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I checked out the switch and it looks like it's a goner. Had a look on Flea bay and got one for about £17.00 not cheap for what is basically an on off switch.

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I had the same problem Paul, and I counterbored the backs of the axle boxes when I built that GUV.
View attachment 157992

Cheers
Tony

Thanks for that Tony, I don't think that I could get away with counterboring the axle boxes that much as I'm using the fully profiled Slater's steel wheels.
This photos shows my first idea, it's a bit time consuming dressing the axle to the correct length them filing the pin point? back onto both ends. It works but a lot of hand filling that can cause errors to creep in.
Bogie 012.JPG

But you have given me another idea. In my stash of drills and reamers I came across This 2.5mm pilot and a 6mm counter bore.
IMG_4282.JPG

It will take a bit of setting up to get the depth just right but it could save me a lot of hand filling. Only down side is the bearings need a 2.6mm hole. not a big problem compared to what I did have. I may need to countersink it a bit at the top of the counterbore to clear the wheel boss but not a big job.

ATB

OzzyO.
 
Top