7mm OzzyO is back building a Dave Parkins' kit (and some JLTRT Coaches as well). Now on to some MMP 16ton wagon kits.

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I've been plodding along doing a bit here and there to the BG and decided that it needs the raised window surrounds, so I got in touch with Easy Build about them, very good service from them.

Now to fit them solder is out of the question! Normal super glue a bit on the thick side. I do have some Loctite but it's for close fitting parts like bearings. Some one posted about a type of Loctite that is very good for this type of fitting but can I find it (NO).

If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be very much appreciated.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS, all I need is the Loctite number.
 
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OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

Kev and me had a bit of a play-out on the trains for a day or two, BiF to Glasgow and then up to London Euston via the E.C.M.L. (£33.00 each, each way).

Then I decided to buy more gear! But I have restarted on the BG using the Easy build window frames. The frames are etched in 15 thou brass and half etched for a lot of there area. First job see it they fit and it was a yes, so that's good.

To fit them they need a small curve adding to them, as they are only 15 thou max. most of the etch is only 71/2 thou, you do have to be careful when forming the curve. All I used was some card and a length of rod about 1/2" dia. you don't need to apply much pressure to the job, if you get it wrong just turn the job over and role over it with no pressure on the rod.
Body 007.JPG

Waste not want not.
Body 008.JPG

The first couple of frames fitted, I have seen some nice coaches spoilt by how these frames have been fitted. Most of the time the frames have not been curved and to correct that applying the glue from the outside, and then just painting over it to try and hide the faults.
Body 006.JPG

The full bodyside fitted with the frames. they do look nice. They are not too thick on the bodyside, the J.L.T.R.T. ones can look a bit chunky.
Body 009.JPG
Body 010.JPG

ATB

OzzyO.
 
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OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

the nice man with the red van called today with a nice red packet from the nice man in Wales. It's for Lochmaben for the Mk2 set that will be a drag set or something that's come over the S & C. so duel braked and duel heated but it should be running on commonwealth bogies.

So the question is who makes the best commonwealth bogies now that MM1 are off line for the moment.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS I got the first coat of primer on the body today.
 

Bill Campbell

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

the nice man with the red van called today with a nice red packet from the nice man in Wales. It's for Lochmaben for the Mk2 set that will be a drag set or something that's come over the S & C. so duel braked and duel heated but it should be running on commonwealth bogies.

So the question is who makes the best commonwealth bogies now that MM1 are off line for the moment.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS I got the first coat of primer on the body today.
Have a look at EasyBuild for bogies - there is a section on their website about constructing the Commonwealth type.

Regards.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

Thanks for the replies about the commonwealth bogies but I have remembered that I have got a pair of them by Cavalier Coaches. The downside is theses are rigid and I would like compensated or sprung, but I've got a bit of a plan forming using the Cavalier castings and a C.P.L. sprung bogie unit.
What can possibly go wrong????

ATB

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I've been a bad bad boy and been spending money on kit parts these are some of the parts,
Air brake and air-conditioning parts.
AA Air brakes.JPG

Some rather nice looking curtains for the first class bits, now just to get some nice orange paint for them.
AA Curtains.JPG

Now it's on to Mk1 roof vents, the manufacturer makes all three types of vent.
AA Vents 1.JPG
AA Vents 2.JPG

I got these off the bay of E from this address | eBay

I hope that this link works, he has a lot of interesting parts in both 4mm and 7mm.

ATB
OzzyO.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
They look to be nicely printed.

Given the range he offers, I can imagine prices for BigBig coaches going up a bit…
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

not so much as a build but a bit of repair work. It's a class 47 that I got from a well known trader in the Liverpool area second hand, to be fair it was described as having some damage like a broken buffer and damage to the brake gear, but at £480 what the heck.
This is showing the bits of the brake gear that is broken,
IMG_9283.JPG
IMG_9284.JPG

Two of the parts that have come off, not that big a job to refit them,
IMG_9286.JPG

But unfortunately one or two of the springs had gone missing.
IMG_9288.JPG

The bad news was that Gaugemasters did not list the springs in the parts list, so I sent off an email to them and after about a week or so I received a email from them and a day or so later I received this small packet,
IMG_9506.JPG

Just in case anyone has the same problem this is the part number.
IMG_9507.JPG

I did also have a similar problem with a class 47 that I bought new in that one buffer had come loose and one step had broken off along with damage to the brake gear and one side frame had come loose (the odd thing was that it was the same buffer on both locos).
IMG_9271.JPG

The brake gear,
IMG_9275.JPG
IMG_9277.JPG

and how it should be.
IMG_9276.JPG
IMG_9279.JPG

Has this put me off Heljan products, not in the slightest. For the cost they are a good product and a massive time saver compared to building a good quality kit and painting it etc..

ATB

OzzyO.

PS. IIRC four new buffers cost me about £4.00 + P&P.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

back onto the coaches. The BG is as far as I'm taking it at the moment until it gets its top coat of paint. The body and roof are not fastened together at the moment.
Body 016.JPGBody 017.JPG

Up till then I'm going to put it back in its box due to how much room a O gauge coach takes up. I've come up with a plan, in that I'm going to concentrate on the jltrt coaches to clear up some track space on my test track, I've got 5 or 6 of them to do so that will keep me occupied for a while. Then on to the DJP kits that I now have 5 of.
I have been doing a bit of prep work on Ian's CK as when I got it I noticed these
Body 005.JPGBody 006.JPG

As I was going to use the etched window surrounds from Easy Build I had a look to see if they would cover the missing bits, getting the frames ready for fitting they require a very gentle curve to get them to sit down on the body.
Body 004.JPG

The frames fitted to both sides and yes they did in the most cases cover the missing bits.Body 010.JPG

I'm thinking that I'll finish off the PoS next, I'v had a play with the 3D printed roof vents and I think they look very nice.
Roof 002.JPG

And close up.
Roof 001.JPG

ATB

OzzyO.
 

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OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

change of plan, I'm going to carry on with Ian's CK. It's going to be one of the small batch that had B4 bogies fitted, it'll make a nice change from BR1s or Commonwealth bogies.

Now for the question, did the B4 bogies when fitted to the MK1s have an alternator fitted to the bogie or did they use a dynamo as normal. In the Parkin book on MK1s there is a very clear colour photo of M3000 with B4 bogies and a dynamo so is this representative of all the MK1s that had B4 bogies?

TFAH

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I've made a start on the B4 bogie for the CK.
What do you get in the kit? At first glance not a lot, but when you start to look at the parts the printing is nice and crisp with minimum flash, you have two supports to cut off at the ends and clean up. You also have some holes to drill out if you want to fit the brake cross shafts and the bearing holes.
B4 bogie 001.JPG

The main part of the bogie from the side, you can see the part that you have to cut out in the dip at the ends of the frames.
B4 Bogie 002.JPG

After the bits had been cut out.
B4 Bogie 003.JPG

The next parts that require a little bit of work are the bogie pivots' just drilling for 2mm pivots and a bit of clearance so that the pivots can rock.
B4 Bogie 004.JPG

The main parts just popped together from above and below.
B4 Bogie 005.JPG
B4 Bogie 006.JPG

All of the parts fitted and just held together with a bit of friction. The next job will be to paint them and then to pick out the axle box ends in yellow and the springs next to the axle boxes in red.
B4 bogie 007.JPG
B4 bogie 008.JPG

Would I recommend them? Yes, what you see in the phots was an afternoons work a few bits to knock up then its paint time.

ATB

OzzyO.
 

Compton castle

Western Thunderer
I think these may be the same supplier I was Looking at recently as they do replacement blue Pullman bogies, Brian Daniels built a set of B4’s that ultimately sagged, so they may need some additional strengthening.
Pictures on the Blue Pullman thread
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I think these may be the same supplier I was Looking at recently as they do replacement blue Pullman bogies, Brian Daniels built a set of B4’s that ultimately sagged, so they may need some additional strengthening.
Pictures on the Blue Pullman thread

Hello Steve,

I think that your correct, as I had built the bogies I'm doing a retro fit of some 1mm N/S wire in the two side beams. I'll pop some photos up soon.

I've been getting a few wheels ready for some coaches, so I'm going to do a post on them today.

The first job is to clean them in the ultrasonic cleaner, no photos of that.
Then it's into the spray booth, I use black etch primer for this. I tend to do them in batches of 4 or 6. I cover the axle journals with bits of wire insulation.
Wheels 001.JPG

After the wheels have had a few days to harden off, The next job is to clean up the wheel treads.
This is done in four or five moves.
1] With a fine file clean the edge of the tread and the face of the wheel at 45 degrees. This normally stops the paint chipping on the face of the wheels.
2] Then using a small round file just clean the root of the flange.
3] I use a length of HSS tool steel that's had the correct wheel and flange profiles ground onto it, then remove the paint from the tread and flange. Don't worry if some paint remains the next stage will sort that out.
4] Using bits of a Garyflex block clean up and polish the flange and wheel tread.
5] If you want to, use a small glass fibre stick to give an extra shine.
Before the above,
Wheels 004.JPG
After the above,
Wheels 005.JPG

This is done on all of the wheels that I have got painted.
Then it's repeated on the second wheel tread.
I'm using Slater's wheels with a axle journal size of 1.75mm, the brass bar is drilled 2mm for a depth of approx. 3mm. This is only to add a bit of support to the journal that's in the chuck. The journal that's in the brass bar runs on the tip of were the drill stopped. I you wanted to you could add a second smaller hole of say 1mm so that the "pin point" is not running on its point.
Wheels 006.JPG

I was going to use two types of Slater's wheels, but it now looks I'm going to use three types.
From the left.
1] The normal flat backed faced wheel, 2] what looks like the new plastic centred wheel with a bit of shaping to the inside face., 3] the full steel wheel.
Wheels 007.JPG
Wheels 008.JPG




Wheels 010.JPG


This is why I decided to do them as a bit of a production run. I'm not sure if I've got all of the wheels in this photo.
Wheels 011.JPG

ATB

OzzyO.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Ozzy,

they certainly look good, but is the effort worthwhile?

I degrease wheels thoroughly, and then use metal black/gun blue, and a wipe on the treads & bearing surfaces with the oily cotton bud. I normally apply a bit of track dirt to the faces anyway.

atb
Simon
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Ozzy,

they certainly look good, but is the effort worthwhile?

I degrease wheels thoroughly, and then use metal black/gun blue, and a wipe on the treads & bearing surfaces with the oily cotton bud. I normally apply a bit of track dirt to the faces anyway.

atb
Simon

Hello Simon,

I have done that when I have about half a dozen - ten to do like a King etc. that's so I can blacked the rear of the treads and still pick up power, but I still gave the front of wheels a blast of black paint. I also do the same with the tender wheels.

With these coach wheels I had approx. 64 wheels to do. Some of them had the black plastic centres, but most of them were all steel so that would have taken quit a bit of time to do four full faces per axle and the axle as well, so the paint can won.

ATB

OzzyO.
 

Pinkfloyd

Member
Hello all,

my computer has something funny going on with it and I can't get some of my programs to work, but I'm still here keeping an eye on you all.

I've been thinking about glazing all of these coaches that I've got to build. Somewhere I read about using glass microscope slides. So I had a look at the prices on the bay of E for them IIRC about £5.50 for 50 so 11p each. One of the things that I liked about them is that they have a short length at one end as ground glass (it's for writing a label on) so I'm thinking that bit could be good for the toilet windows.

ATB

OzzyO.
 
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michael080

Western Thunderer
Good morning,

I remember reading that reference as well, but I think the idea was to use the very thin cover glasses.

Cover glass

I did also read that they break very easily, so somebody had the idea to glue two of them together with superglue to get compound glass.

Michael
 

Pinkfloyd

Member
Good morning,

I remember reading that reference as well, but I think the idea was to use the very thin cover glasses.

Cover glass

I did also read that they break very easily, so somebody had the idea to glue two of them together with superglue to get compound glass.

Michael
Hello Michael,

I've also got the cover glasses on order. But the problem with the cover glasses is the size about the largest that I saw were 24 X 24mm, not quit big enough for a Mk1 window and definitely not big enough for a Mk2 window. As the real Mk1 window were in five panes of glass with the bottom pane being set at one angle and the top four at another angle I'm going to see if I can get the affect on the model. Now for a question, were the window in a BG the same?

Onto the B4 bogies with a coat of paint on them.
Bogie 010.JPG

You can see what I've done to add some strength to the top beam. it was getting a length of 1mm N/S in the channel and filling it with super glue jell. Lets see how it works. I've got some more on order but I've got a better idea for them.
Bogie 012.JPG



Under coat on the springs and axle box covers.
Bogie 015.JPG

And top coat on.
Bogie 017.JPG

The ETH gear that I'll be using from PRMRP products.

ETC gear 02.JPG

Now onto one of the coaches a JLTRT Mk1 CK. Not a lot to out of the ordinary yet. Apart from using two vee hangers, the inside one should get cut back to the angle trussing.
Floor 001.JPG

Buffers in place and the channel to clear the spring for the draw gear milled out, I'm going to use the Ellis Clarke drop head buckeye couplings on this coach.
Floor 002.JPG

You can just make out the pins that I've used to help add some strength to the joint between the trussing and the floor pan. After doing a few JLTRT coaches it dawned on me that the small bit at the ends of the trussing should be folded the wrong way so you get what looks like a channel.
Floor 003.JPG

While I was on the bay of E I decided to have a look for a set of Maun parallel jaw pliers and I came across these for about £13.50. So I got a set with the brass inserts and a set with the normal steel jaws.
Parallal pliers.JPG

ATB

OzzyO.
 
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