oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I bought a can set for 10000/1.
least said.......
b
least said.......
b
7mm On Heather's workbench - Western royalty
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Least said, soonest mended…
Well, they won't win any prizes for fidelity. They are, however, now assembled.
With the lid on, this is about all you can see. I think the next thing is to squirt some grey primer over them, work out where some judicious filler might be of use, and see about getting them installed. I need two bulkheads between them, and something resembling the steam heating boiler. I think that'll be the next job.
The jury is out on whether I bother in future!
Well, they won't win any prizes for fidelity. They are, however, now assembled.
With the lid on, this is about all you can see. I think the next thing is to squirt some grey primer over them, work out where some judicious filler might be of use, and see about getting them installed. I need two bulkheads between them, and something resembling the steam heating boiler. I think that'll be the next job.
The jury is out on whether I bother in future!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
After some primer, it was obvious there was some work still to do. Well, quite a lot of work to do. While the general shape resembles something like a V12, the castings leave one hell of a lot to be desired. I wish Mr Beattie well, but as someone pointed out elsewhere he really ought to get the 3D prints done somewhere with a much higher resolution than he manages himself. Quite possibly get someone else to make the resin moulds and castings, too. Blobs, bubbles, holes, flash, it was all there. It was occasionally difficult to tell what shape the object was supposed to be, and what was extraneous material. I am, frankly, quite disappointed, but we are where we are.
I had to replace the exhaust pipes into the turbo. The kit ones were nowhere near the right lengths, so I've made do with some 2mm copper wire. It's not right, all the wrong angles, but it'll have to do.
After some filler, some careful carving away of gash resin, and a quick coat of grey-green paint, things look a little more like it. The shade of colour was mixed up from three parts Humbrol matt white 34 and one part matt grey-green 31.
Back to thinking about the Spanner Swirlyflow MkIII...
I had to replace the exhaust pipes into the turbo. The kit ones were nowhere near the right lengths, so I've made do with some 2mm copper wire. It's not right, all the wrong angles, but it'll have to do.
After some filler, some careful carving away of gash resin, and a quick coat of grey-green paint, things look a little more like it. The shade of colour was mixed up from three parts Humbrol matt white 34 and one part matt grey-green 31.
Back to thinking about the Spanner Swirlyflow MkIII...
D816Foxhound
Western Thunderer
Heather,
I'm a bit late with this info. When the Westerns were introduced, the Maybach engines were painted Dark Admiralty Grey.
Later, as engines went through overhaul, BR painted them a Silver/Aluminium colour, though not all parts of the engine received Silver/Aluminium. Generally speaking a maroon/green loco had grey engines and BR blue locos had silver engines.
As you say, once installed inside an unlit body and behind the engine room glazing, the resin engine should present a reasonable impression.
Roger
I'm a bit late with this info. When the Westerns were introduced, the Maybach engines were painted Dark Admiralty Grey.
Later, as engines went through overhaul, BR painted them a Silver/Aluminium colour, though not all parts of the engine received Silver/Aluminium. Generally speaking a maroon/green loco had grey engines and BR blue locos had silver engines.
As you say, once installed inside an unlit body and behind the engine room glazing, the resin engine should present a reasonable impression.
Roger
Hobbyhorse
Western Thunderer
I remember the spanner boilers, always dirty, difficult to get going, shutting them self down and always the wrong end of the engine, ETH much easier, just switch it on from a nice warm cab.
Simon
Simon
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Thanks Roger!
One question I can't resolve at present; are there bulkheads dividing the boiler from the engines?
D816Foxhound
Western Thunderer
Hello Heather,
There are no bulkheads between engine and boiler. There are rather flimsy "doors" which isolate the cooler group from the cab vestibule and the engine room, but on the walkway side only - that's the driver's side of the loco. The only proper bulkhead in the loco divides the cab and cab vestibule.
Looking at the photo in post #35, the 4 small vertical catches at the top of the 4 battery box doors were not present on maroon Westerns. (These were a mod added as a result of the West Ealing derailment in December 1973).
Roger
There are no bulkheads between engine and boiler. There are rather flimsy "doors" which isolate the cooler group from the cab vestibule and the engine room, but on the walkway side only - that's the driver's side of the loco. The only proper bulkhead in the loco divides the cab and cab vestibule.
Looking at the photo in post #35, the 4 small vertical catches at the top of the 4 battery box doors were not present on maroon Westerns. (These were a mod added as a result of the West Ealing derailment in December 1973).
Roger
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Heather - Although only a static model, you can vastly improve the appearance of your Western build by making the corner radii of the engine room windows much smaller than as supplied. I made a simple jig from an "L" shaped piece of etch waste (tape it in place, then gently scrape/file away unwanted resin), though it was so long ago, I can't recall what radius I altered them to - sorry!
I really must finish my Western, as the cabs/sides/roof are all assembled now. The sides/roof even have primer wafted over them, but crazy shift patterns and two young daughters certainly take their toll on modelling time.
Regards
Dan
I really must finish my Western, as the cabs/sides/roof are all assembled now. The sides/roof even have primer wafted over them, but crazy shift patterns and two young daughters certainly take their toll on modelling time.
Regards
Dan
Osgood
Western Thunderer
How frustrating. What a shame this company does not produce a range of 7mm engines etc - the quality of their castings is second to none:
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Right, no dividers or bulkheads in the centre of the loco. I asked because I've seen a published section which implies dividers either side of the boiler. I really could do with some clear idea of what it looks like in there, as I'm working from a drawing and intuition. As ever, all help and information is gratefully received.
Also, I was aware of the battery box clips, and how they weren't fitted until relatively late on. Thanks for pointing it out, though.
Dan, I will look at the window corner shape, though I am tempted to leave things alone for fear of Captain Cockup making a foray from Mickoo's neck of the woods!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I decided to chop up and fettle the brass castings for the cabs today. It was but a small step to organising the various fittings.
The loco is to represent its life before train air braking was installed, so I plugged the cast hole above the steam heating pipework. I have also let the detail demon loose and drilled small holes to take twisted wire storage chains later on. Handrails bother me somewhat, as I guess they're meant to be bright metal. Whether to fit them now, and clean paint off later is something I shall consider.
I suppose it makes sense to arrange the other bits on the noses.
The loco is to represent its life before train air braking was installed, so I plugged the cast hole above the steam heating pipework. I have also let the detail demon loose and drilled small holes to take twisted wire storage chains later on. Handrails bother me somewhat, as I guess they're meant to be bright metal. Whether to fit them now, and clean paint off later is something I shall consider.
I suppose it makes sense to arrange the other bits on the noses.
D816Foxhound
Western Thunderer
Hello Heather,
There are a few internal photos on the "Western Loco Association" and "D1041 Western Prince" websites.
www.westernlocomotives.co.uk/galleries
www.westernprince.co.uk/d1041gallery_works.html
On the Western Prince website the photo on the top row, extreme right is looking towards "A" end engine room from the boiler room. As you can see, there is no bulkhead, just two stanchions.
Roger
There are a few internal photos on the "Western Loco Association" and "D1041 Western Prince" websites.
www.westernlocomotives.co.uk/galleries
www.westernprince.co.uk/d1041gallery_works.html
On the Western Prince website the photo on the top row, extreme right is looking towards "A" end engine room from the boiler room. As you can see, there is no bulkhead, just two stanchions.
Roger
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Fabulous! Thanks Roger!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Roof details done. I've blanked the exhaust ports, to stop light leaking in later. I'm surprised there aren't suitable grille etches provided, but there you go.
Cab handrails to do, then I'm calling it a day.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
It's getting close to a point where I can think about painting the main livery colour. Of course, before that happens, the cab interiors have to be completed.
A little tidying to do, but mostly there. I'd like to thank Dan for his build thread which gave me a clue to the conduit colours on the bulkhead.
A nice feature of the cast details is AWS roses are included. They're pretty prominent on the A pillar. Another cast part is also on the sprue, but I can't identify what or where it should live - if at all.
Any ideas?
I have already been adding details to the cab exteriors, and I've been thinking long and hard about how to paint things. Knowing the traditional JLTRT glazing, I don't trust my ability not to poke a glazing panel into the cab while masking things up. It is assumed the cabs are glazed and fitted out internally before attaching to the sides and roof, before painting commences. I have worked out a way that lets me be a little more slapdash with the masking, and that involves brush painting the livery colour around the windows before things get glazed.
This is an undercoat of red oxide-ish, which is what I plan to prime the body with later as a base coat for the maroon livery. While I was there I set about the frames with aluminium colour. I will shortly brush a couple of thinned coats of maroon around the windows, and once it's nice and dry I can fit glazing, interiors and masking the frame areas more readily than each glazing panel.
That's the plan, at least.
A little tidying to do, but mostly there. I'd like to thank Dan for his build thread which gave me a clue to the conduit colours on the bulkhead.
A nice feature of the cast details is AWS roses are included. They're pretty prominent on the A pillar. Another cast part is also on the sprue, but I can't identify what or where it should live - if at all.
Any ideas?
I have already been adding details to the cab exteriors, and I've been thinking long and hard about how to paint things. Knowing the traditional JLTRT glazing, I don't trust my ability not to poke a glazing panel into the cab while masking things up. It is assumed the cabs are glazed and fitted out internally before attaching to the sides and roof, before painting commences. I have worked out a way that lets me be a little more slapdash with the masking, and that involves brush painting the livery colour around the windows before things get glazed.
This is an undercoat of red oxide-ish, which is what I plan to prime the body with later as a base coat for the maroon livery. While I was there I set about the frames with aluminium colour. I will shortly brush a couple of thinned coats of maroon around the windows, and once it's nice and dry I can fit glazing, interiors and masking the frame areas more readily than each glazing panel.
That's the plan, at least.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
It looks like a brake lever to me heather but probably not for your kit.
Equally I haven't seen it in any of the other kits I have built 25, 37, 40, or 17
Richard
Equally I haven't seen it in any of the other kits I have built 25, 37, 40, or 17
Richard
D816Foxhound
Western Thunderer
Heather,
Your unidentified part looks like the AWS on/off switch. This is located on the cab side wall to the left of the driver's seat and just a little above cab floor level. So to the left of where the drivers seat pedestal locates in the floor in the photo above is about right.
On the bulkead, the round gauge above the cab door is actually the boiler/steam heat pressure gauge. The piping for this gauge ran up from cab floor ( it t'eed into the steam heat pipe under the cab floor) along the back of the door. It was lagged, so an authentic colour would be a dirty white. The JLTRT interpretation with conduit angled upwards is not correct, but I doubt you will be able to easily see this bit of detail once the bulkead is in the model.
Roger
Your unidentified part looks like the AWS on/off switch. This is located on the cab side wall to the left of the driver's seat and just a little above cab floor level. So to the left of where the drivers seat pedestal locates in the floor in the photo above is about right.
On the bulkead, the round gauge above the cab door is actually the boiler/steam heat pressure gauge. The piping for this gauge ran up from cab floor ( it t'eed into the steam heat pipe under the cab floor) along the back of the door. It was lagged, so an authentic colour would be a dirty white. The JLTRT interpretation with conduit angled upwards is not correct, but I doubt you will be able to easily see this bit of detail once the bulkead is in the model.
Roger
Andrew Thompson
Western Thunderer
Heather
We have been here before I posted a picture on Dans RMweb thread
RMweb Archive • View topic - Dan's 7mm Workbench - JLTRT Western S7 wheels.
Andrew
We have been here before I posted a picture on Dans RMweb thread
RMweb Archive • View topic - Dan's 7mm Workbench - JLTRT Western S7 wheels.
Andrew
