Mr Tiger Viking - G1 1/32nd Modelling Workshop

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Those resin castings look really good.........  :scratch: unlike some of the  7mm ones I have used  :headbang: :))
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
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Do I take it correctly that the cabs come with every possible variation detail on them, and you have to remove the ones not applicable to the chosen prototype?
Seems quite a sensible idea, really!! :thumbs:
 

Mr Tiger Viking

Western Thunderer
Hello Jordan
Yes you a right, Fred has been very clever with this kit, it has been designed as a class 21 and all the detail parts to convert it to a class 29, Simples really.

The exquisite class 21 front end detail along with the supplied etched headcode discs make it a huge descion to convert to a class 29. I did consider doing the first converted Class 29 D6123 which retained the class 21 front end detail, however I wanted my loco to look like a Class 29 with the headcode boxes.
Regards
Mr TV
 

Mr Tiger Viking

Western Thunderer
CME & Bottlewasher said:
Hi Mr. Tiger Viking,

I missed out on meeting you.....as I went to Hardwicke and met some of your mates instead :D

Keep up the good work :drool: :thumbs:

CME :wave:

Hello CME
Its a shame you did not pop over to Cheltenham, you could have seen the 7mm Hymek I had on display (which I am still selling), however you probably made the right choice as there were no 7mm layouts at the show.

Do they still get the test track from Taunton way for the Hardwicke running day or do they have thier own now?
Cheers
Mr TV
 

Simon

Flying Squad
My Class 29 will have a more powerful can motor with delrin chain drive to the other axles as it will be my main loco to take to Simon`s garden railway.

Great to see what you're up to Steve, Andrew and I are still down in Bath awaiting a weathering masterclass :))

I look forward to seeing your 29 on my line, I will try and get a bit more permanent way set out for some decent running. I am aiming to have a get together in September, hopefully we can get you, Roger, Fred and any of the other guys together for a major session.

All Western Thunderers will be welcome too :thumbs:

The next thing to do in the garden is to cast concrete into my steel frames to create the next "baseboard" on to which the next point needs to go, the point itself remains part built inside the house ::)

I'm going to go outside right now, I expect that there are some weeds to pull out of my embankment after the rain of the last day or so!! 
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Simon said:
I'm going to go outside right now, I expect that there are some weeds to pull out of my embankment after the rain of the last day or so!!
I hope you didn't have too much rain - and get an embankment washout like
on Canadian National tracks.... :eek: :shit:
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Noticed some filler in use there: which brand/type of filler have you used?
Also, which glue do you use for sticking details to the resin?
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
If anyone is tempted by the thought of building one of these, can they contact me off-list, as I may be able to help...?
 

Mr Tiger Viking

Western Thunderer
Hello all
Apologies for going AWOL again !! no excusses, just life getting in the way of modelling time.
Firstly a reply to Simon D, The filler I use is milliput standard/fine, however whilst demo`ing at the Cheltenham show a fellow demo`e showed me and recommended the B&Q filler, which is white in colour and has a very fine consistency, it is ready made and very easy to apply, approx £17 a tub, which should last your modelling life time, so I gave it a go on the Class 29 cab fronts, as allready mentioned, very easy to apply, dries very quickly to boot, however I was a little dissapointed when I started rubbing down, as it, well the best I can describe it,  it sort of rubberises  :-[, which was quite frustrating, so I dug it out and went back to old faithfull milliput, It maybe more hassle to mix and a little bit more messy, however It never gives me any trouble when rubbing down to a smooth surface.
The Glues I use, are Devcon aralidte, and Zap a gap super glue, which I have used for years and I am very happy with both.

I Have just returned from taking Worcester Road to the Gauge 1 show at Bakewell, Derbyshire. which to my surprise was very well recieved by all, This is the first dedicated G1 show that I have attended and was very enjoyable, I bought a Ken Martin GWR buffer stop kit, he also does a LSWR kit as well. Lots of live steam as was expected however some nicely modelled 2 wire electric steam which had recieved some weathering, A Black 5 wth sound was superb. I also observed a locomotive lining demonstration using bow pens.

Worcester Road will be attending the STOMeX show in Cheltenham on August 6th at the Holy Aposoltes church. may see some of you there ?  :wave:

Hopefully after August/summer hoildays have been and gone I can get down to some 1/32nd modelling again.

Regards
Mr TV 
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Thanks for the update, Steve. I will get the Milliput out. :)
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Lots of aircraft modellers seem to have started using superglue as a filler and having tried it myself recently I can confirm it dries quick and hard.  Sands well too!

The trick is to use the thick stuff to position it where you want and then use a small paintbrush to drop accelerator near the superglue so that it runs onto the glue.  Applying directly will result in a seriously depleted paintbrush as the glue will instantly dry on the bristles.  :headbang:

The glue can then be drilled or sanded as required.  It's best to do it as soon as possible as the glue seems to get harder with time.  And yes, it works very well on resin.

Steph
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Simon Dunkley said:
Thanks for the update, Steve. I will get the Milliput out. :)
I have good success with squadron white filler.

Steve I might see if I can get over on the 6th is there a website for the exhibition?
 

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
I've started using Holts Knifing Putty, it seems to be as good as the Squadron fillers, but doesn't dry out in the tube.  As an added bonus it's about three quid for a 100g tube, which should last a very long time indeed.  I can heartily recommend it.
 

Pennine MC

Western Thunderer
That sounds interesting Martin, I've always favoured the grey knifing putty in the flat tins, which is nicely workable with water, but it does eventually dry out and become unusable.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Guys,

Useful stuff coming out, here. I have used Squadron on my 22, where the knife blade slipped when I was removing the driver's name brackets from under the cab side windows (doing a blue one) but have found that epoxy and polyurethane resin  are not great bed fellows in my hands. Have not tried Devon, but may give it a go. My experiences with Milliput have been variable in the past, but I suspect because I didn't kneed it for long enough.

I'm getting a touch enthused by all this, so might even pick up my 22 from where I left off, some years ago.

TVM,

Simon
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Simon Dunkley said:
Guys,
My experiences with Milliput have been variable in the past, but I suspect because I didn't kneed it for long enough.

Simon
I have always had similar problems with milliput. I do agree that squadron dries in the tube, but on the other hand its fast drying time means you can get on with the job  :)

Steve, hopefully the day is clear and i will bring me eldest with me.
 

Mr Tiger Viking

Western Thunderer
Morning All
Crickey Simon I had completely forgotton about your class 22, I probably like many others would like to see you finish this, as if your 5 plank open wagon is anything to go by it will be worth the wait. which one are you doing?
I thought you had sold it, did you not get sound for the 22 aswell ?? or is old age playing cruel tricks on of my memory?

I had a good chat with the chap from S&D models at Bakewell about BR drivers for our 1/32nd diesels, he said if I can give him the measement from the bulkhead to the front and back of the seat and also the floor to the top of the seat, he would be willing to make 2 types of driver/secondman, these would be made with seperate heads and arms to offer variants.

So I can measure a Warship as Tiger is in the Works, can I ask either Simon or Cynric to measure the 22, I will then forward the details to Mr S&D along with some images of BR Drivers uniforms.

Also had a chat with the chap from Mercian who will be producing a PWM`er in 1/32nd, :thumbs: which Rob mabbett of the parish and I thankfully allready have the wheels from Mark Wood.

Regards
Mr TV
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Mr Tiger Viking said:
Crickey Simon I had completely forgotton about your class 22, I probably like many others would like to see you finish this, as if your 5 plank open wagon is anything to go by it will be worth the wait. which one are you doing?
I thought you had sold it, did you not get sound for the 22 aswell ?? or is old age playing cruel tricks on of my memory?
I cam close to it: it has suffered considerably from a bout of inertia, I can tell you. The story so far is detailed on my blog - which I just checked and realised has not been updated since November 25th! :eek:
I was planning to do 6333, but I have been beaten to it, in BFYE too. I may do it anyway, although 6330/1/2 are all candidates.

The last thing I attempted to do was to remove the resin behind the headcode boxes. This generally went well, but it is hard to hold the body steady whilst working away with a miling cutter in a pendant drill, and I need to make good one or two slips - hence my questions about glue and fillers, as the cutters have created a very smooth surface and getting anything to stick is proving awkward. This is my excuse for the inertia and lack of progress, of course! Well, that and work, family, and S scale diversions which have also come up short...
I had a good chat with the chap from S&D models at Bakewell about BR drivers for our 1/32nd diesels, he said if I can give him the measement from the bulkhead to the front and back of the seat and also the floor to the top of the seat, he would be willing to make 2 types of driver/secondman, these would be made with seperate heads and arms to offer variants.
That is good news: I will see what I can do.
 
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