4mm Monks: perhaps NOT a Classic Minories - for a grandchild.

jonte

Western Thunderer
Like that lots.

I trust you are not going to introduce a prototypical sag…. I fear that would be challenging to replicate!

Thanks, Simon.

Will give it a go, and have one or two - possibly lame :( - ideas up my sleeve, but needed to ensure the skeleton was straight and true to base it on, otherwise it would all have gone pear shaped pretty quickly, or at least I reckon. You may recall that I had to ensure it was removable, and I think ‘plumb’ was essential to ensuring it was practical as well as aesthetic. We’ll see ;)

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Probably not handy for you if you’re near Ormskirk, but there’s a stockist of paints, and goblins, orcs, etc, at Brimstage on the Wirral. They keep (kept, haven’t visited in a while) a very good range.

still there when I went past a few weeks ago.

regards

Mike

Thanks, chaps :thumbs:

Good to know, although this guy also had other luxuries in stock such as MiG washes etc. He tells me he’s also a ‘gamer but I noticed that he had traditional military war gaming figures in stock too.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
All brilliant, a project well done, Jon. A definite tribute to the hobby and your own patience.:thumbs:

Regards,

Roger:)

I’m really not worthy, Roger :oops:, but I’m extremely chuffed that a modeller of your experience has been kind enough to say so :thumbs:

As for patience, I think I pushed it to the absolute limit with those darned glazing bars :mad:

We’ll see what it looks like when I’ve daubed it in paint ;)

Best,

Jon
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
I wouldn't worry too much about solvent misting of the roof glazing Jonte. I doubt very much the glass would be clean, let alone see through on the prototype. In fact I would go as far as actually using solvent to mist the entire glazed area... That's just me though.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I wouldn't worry too much about solvent misting of the roof glazing Jonte. I doubt very much the glass would be clean, let alone see through on the prototype. In fact I would go as far as actually using solvent to mist the entire glazed area... That's just me though.

Your experienced opinion is valued, Chris, as are your kind words of consolation. Consider it done :thumbs:

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Morning Jonte.

What a smashing job you've done on the roof.

Perserverence personified and skillfully accomplished.

Rob.

And a very good morning to you too, Rob :)

Your kind support is always welcome, although perhaps a little premature as there’s still plenty of opportunity for much disappointment before I reach the point where I can consider it ‘finished’ :(

Still, I am rather pleased with it, despite the glazing episode, so perhaps while still in upbeat mood I should forward it to yourself or Chris or to anyone else who specialises in the distressing/weather in side of things, to ensure it doesn’t all go south ;)

Thanks for dropping by.

Jonte
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Jonte,

Great work on the roof and if there's any imperfections in the glazing, it doesn't show in the photos. As Chris said the glazing would be filthy, I wouldn't think it got cleaned very often, if at all, especially in later years.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Jonte,

Great work on the roof and if there's any imperfections in the glazing, it doesn't show in the photos. As Chris said the glazing would be filthy, I wouldn't think it got cleaned very often, if at all, especially in later years.

Thank you, Phil, and thanks for reading.

Cheers.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I’ve still not started painting, fellow Westerners, but have applied a couple of coats of Halford’s Acid eight, to the wire ‘rods’ , which I picked up last week, together with some new primer which will be sprayed over the top when there’s an interlude in the weather.

Otherwise, I’ve been slavishly scribing wood panelling into styrene for what will become the ceiling/roof…….

This was made more difficult than it should have been. Out of 1mm plasticard sheet I’d intended for the purpose, I popped to my local model shop a couple of weeks ago only to discover that they were out of stock. I was offered the alternative of clear styrene usually used for glazing; not wanting to have to travel or pay more postage, and with the consolation that I would be supporting a local trader I promptly purchased four sheets. Trouble is, unlike ordinary styrene, scoring and breaking it is a somewhat hit and miss affair, more often than not fracturing one or even both sides of the score line :mad: Consequently, I have to improvise by making the roof line more rustic than it should in order to remove the fracture line or, worst case scenario, bin the whole section.

Anyway, just a couple of short lengths more required and then they can be primed and painted along with everything else.

To make work for myself, I’ve decided to apply slates to the remaining sections of roof, so all being well, it should be finished for next Christmas ;)

I’ll leave you with a picture of a section of ceiling/roof just placed under the roof frame for illustrative purposes (panelling is way over size at 12” widths, but I’m already suffering with eye strain, so anything smaller was right off the agenda :confused:. It’s also been sanded to remove swarf and add some token grain):

66A4578E-DFCB-48B5-A110-B5615AA3A795.jpeg

Almost forgot. Have completed the rear panel but have foregone the matching glass panel as per front section, opting for the path of least resistance in a panelled finish courtesy of (the rather expensive) Evergreen Plastics:

88719384-1313-4D52-8EE9-86BBF3B23AF0.jpeg

Thanks for looking and Merry Christmas.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Whilst still not painted, fellow Westerners, I’ve not been totally idle, the preparation in terms of imparting a token wood texture to the styrene formers, laboured masking and a piecemeal priming process due to the vagaries of the weather, taking more time than anticipated.

The ‘front’ of the front:

766B74DD-4E8F-4B5A-8F36-1EC1701AE389.jpeg

Simon (@simond) queried whether I intended to replicate the bow as per the real thing. This was a feature that I wanted to include anyway, so what you see is my half-baked solution. A token nod in the form of the same width styrene section but only in finer half millimetre thickness allowed me to represent random lengths of main beam, one or two set at a jaunty angle with a notch set here n there, was my humble attempt at the real thing. In fairness, the beam - as per the prototype- could have been more pronounced if I’d modelled the two lower sections as well, but mine was custom made to fit the beams on the layout, so that was that. The bonus with the masking is that it hides that ruddy awful canopy glue - or its ruddy awful application to be more precise :(

The rear of the front:

24C62D94-383D-4F4A-908B-4B4FC80D14F5.jpeg

Perhaps it did look like this :rolleyes: Same use of thinner styrene section as per the front.You’ll notice that in both panels, the holes into which the longitudinal rods will be inserted have been reinstated.

The back panel and architraving which will be affixed to the front after painting/distressing. The right hand side architrave shows my additional attempt at replicating the bowing edifice:

BB0A13AD-8D0E-4379-B293-D4687C360A3B.jpeg

A couple of what it might look like shots when assembled:

9002409A-A7D5-4914-9841-749814CB12C2.jpeg B2ADC0A9-61C4-409B-A759-F6BC0F81DF86.jpeg

This really is a little too flimsy at present; I’m hoping and praying that the roof/ceiling imparts some robustness :(

The painting is something I’ve been scratching my head over. My original idea for representing the appearance of the front has been shelved. Didn’t work.

The inside and the tops of the internal eaves is not a problem: to save overloading my single brain cell, I’m going to take a short cut and use the new wood look as per my recent Vallejo purchase, as I reckon the exposed wood wouldn’t have been adversely affected by the elements as would the fascia, so that’s that sorted. But the front? The paint kit supplies the required paints / instructions for an ‘old wood’ look, but as arty as it looks, I’m not certain that it’s appropriate in this case. Unfortunately, try as I might, I cannot find colour piccies of the train shed, so am relying on ‘stuff’ I’ve seen over the years with other railway buildings at the end of steam. Luckily, I tend to harbour examples of wear n tear as I come across them, so having resorted to them, I’m of a mind that the wood would have looked something like these following examples:

C9DCE346-BD16-4F0E-8B0C-587AC1FB27EE.jpeg
B143CD3D-9307-4464-950C-D508432ED975.jpeg

To that end, I popped back to my local model shop and purchased sky, medium and metallic greys from the Tamiya acrylic range, together with a bucketful of their thinners for starters. It could prove yet another bum steer, but I’ve plenty of cheap acrylics, oils, enamels and powders to fall back on if it all goes pear shaped.

Wish me luck!

Jonte
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
Jon,

I've been looking at that derelict and cobwebbed window - it occurred to me that the acquisition of a resident spider for your layout might be an asset.........:cool:!

Merry Christmas to the residents of Monks from those of Whatborough Yard :)!
 
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