7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

simond

Western Thunderer
I recall a discussion about Tre Pol & Pen having different bogie wheels.

I suspect there was an errant apostrophe which converted 3’9” to 3 9” (Wikipedia says 3’8”, so maybe 3 8”)

you’d have to try hard to make a similarly plausible typo in metric units.

doesn’t help Dan though...
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Hi Dan
The last two digits of the Slater’s product code are the wheel diameter in inches! Your wheels are 3’ 3” diameter as they should be. The product was mis-labelled by Slater’s as 3’9”. There is no 3’9” dia. wheel in the S7 Stores list. The ST part of the code gives a clue as to their intended use. They were added to the Stores list for the MOK Stanier 8F kit as pony wheels. Do you have 3 x 8F kits to build? There may be other options!
Dave

Hi Dave

I didn’t know about the Slater’s “last two digits” thing, but it will be useful information going forward. Thank you. :thumbs:

I’ll have a trawl through the wheels in the S7 Stores’ list later and if I have no joy there, I’ll have to get some direct from Slater’s and ask that Dowling fellow, if he wouldn’t mind improving their appearance for me.

Unfortunately, I have no plans to build 3x 8Fs (nor enough years left, to even contemplate doing so!), but having seen the magnificent results achieved by Ian C, with his 8F ( Ian_C's workbench - P4 and S7 allsorts ), I could certainly be tempted, by just one!


Regards

Dan
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer

Unfortunately, I have no plans to build 3x 8Fs (nor enough years left, to even contemplate doing so!), but having seen the magnificent results achieved by Ian C, with his 8F (
Ian_C's workbench - P4 and S7 allsorts ), I could certainly be tempted, by just one!

Regards

Dan

Will have to talk Dave Sharp into re-introducing the kit...................................................................................................................on the phone now !

Ian
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
I have a good idea of the plans Dave has for the 8F kit, but it is in the queue behind other current projects. Suffice to say, I would also like another one. It will though likely be a Mk2 version with updates and improvements, and I have e-mailed him the 8F works drawing lists for Crewe and Derby this evening.

Ian
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Back to the MR compound tender, the MK II etches turned up so another quick test build. Most of it follows the original but the tender wheels being captive was going to be a problem.

Solution was to cut slots in the side frames and make a new sub frame to hold the bearings. There is a temptation to go all technical and over engineer something, in the end two beams with holes for the top hat bearings with a flange to secure was all that was required.

To get some strength in the bend required the lower plank to be moved upward by about 1 mm and thus small notches cut out to clear the wheel rims. I also widened the whole bogie by just under 1 mm to improve side play and hopefully allow S7 wheels in there for those who wear that anorak.

The changes do mean the bogie is not 100% accurate any more, but the two 10BA screws in there kind of anull that argument :p

The few other tweaks here and there all worked well and next job is to make up the revised brake gear.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Small update on MR compound tender, brakes for rear bogie all done. It struck me that making the wheels removable didn't account for the brake rigging :eek:

The rigging can be built as a sub assembly and using the main fulcrum pivot as a removable pin it can just be wriggled in and out, the brake plank fulcrum pins would need to go in last post paint.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Time to get back to the Garratt for a short while, more 3D printing today, I've adjusted the front engine exhaust and live steam pipes to clear the rear axle on the front engine and what will be the engine bearing bed casting, though the live steam pipe does need shortening a little more.

The water balancing pipe is now in place and just needs a bracket to hold the front end in place on the saddle base.

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Once I'm happy with all the bits then they'll get secured in place and then it'll be on to the rear end, which is actually easier.

That'll just leave the brakes and rigging to complete the underside of the boiler bed plate before returning top side.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Pretty much all of the big pipework now done, a couple need redoing due to damage and slight warping of the print but essentially it all fits.

I am tempted to remove the white metal blob for the smoke box saddle live steam fitting to the rear engine, but then again, most of this will not be seen from normal viewing angles :cool:

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
More 4MT, despite all the fittings so far fitted, the little bags seem inexhaustible!

The whistle took a wallop in the wash bay so that'll need straightening out in the next session, the injector drain pipes will be fitted post paint, they'll get bent or knocked off if fitted now.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
End of weekend update, only a last few details left to finish the body off, smokebox details, lamp irons, vac pipe stand and coupling bang plate.

Other than the backhead (which is pretty much a stand alone model in it's own right) the rest of the work to complete is on the chassis.

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Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Wonderful inspirations here for the MOK 4MT. I have the bible tome on the class but in lockdowned France but I now want the kit for, well, you know, whenever! Lots of 4MTs in New Street back in the day. As LarryG wrote earlier, there is something about these MOK kits that demands they not be painted. I nearly started collecting brass HO when I lived in Houston so this isn’t so far fetched as it sounds. Some HO collectors consider a painted Asian brass locomotive to be less desirable than the unpainted model. Until they tarnish, that is.

edited to make sense!
 
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