4mm Lellizzick Quay a NCR backwater

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
The battery was about to die so had to post the above ! Lost a post in the past by thinking on repowering up it would still be there.
Notice now the paper lining joint in the tunnel is far from perfect so needs addressing.

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Those moulding pips are a pain to get rid of hadn’t spotted the one on the keystone!
Tried both a file and a knife without great success.
Cheers for looking in.
 
Failed 009 Ramp Test Layout Rethink

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Then I thought rather late in the day! It has to be said ! Best try out my untried theory of running the NG line from quayside up to the tunnel mouth exit over the standard gauge.
oh dear even with a helix I don’t think it will work.

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Below is the height and distance it needed to achieve it in!

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Slipped all the way to get there!

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I do have video but suffice to say with a coach I had to drop it to an inch over about 5ft for the MW 009 to pull just one coach.
Screenshot from a video below on the height it could achieve with one coach over that distance.

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Plan b is a vertical transverser if I can make it work off scene.
Now adding back the photos that were linked from RMWeb and lost the vertical transverser is a none starter in the space I have.
 
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Backscene Frame and Hidden 0099 Reack and a small 009 running video

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Spun the board around to build the backscene support and NG track bed behind the backscene.

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Next I built the track base behind the backscene and covered with foam board.
Soldered up some droppers on the the 009 track! Blimey that’s small to 00! New soldering iron though is a revelation.
Track down first L&B train ran on some permanent track.

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Need to cut the track now for the lift out section then get the backscene in so I can spin it back around the right way and get it back in the corner where it belongs.
More soon I hope!

Cheers for looking in.
 
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009 Shelf Copperclad joint

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Battled the lift out over the tunnel! Dremel cut the 009 track where it left the lift out board to exit behind backscene.
Oh dear! Failed to note how wide the disc was. Cue track removal rewire etc etc copper clad purchased and relaid track and test and remove to much solder until trains ran!

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Tunnel lining was glued in and seams of lining paper disguised.
Below lift out section foam boarded on bottom for more sound deadening and power push connector installed.

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Now done train room major tidy up next and get the boards back and all lined up.
cheers for looking in.
 
Main Viaduct Construction Starts

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
A while since the last post but construction has been going on quietly.
I was not sure whether to post this or not as you’ll see I’m not sure what the word is it’s a little, contrived far fetched?
But following on from the Lellizzick board is the viaduct board.
I was planning a Taw river curved viaduct as Barnstaple was. I couldn’t get it to fit without major tearing up of the Meldon board. But as I had already built the opposite board to drop as a viaduct crossing, I chose to keep steaming in that direction.
So as below we have Torrington viaduct meets Chelfam viaduct!

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Below this little extension of the board I had to make removable in case I need to remove from the room one day.
The viaduct board to the left will swing on wheels to give access to the centre well area.

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I could not resist a little posing of loco’s,

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So forgive my indulgence I’ll be back to the main subject soon.
Cheers
Ade
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Trying a few things to workout the L&B narrow gauge exit from the backscene.
Fancied an over bridge over a stream as the timber I fixed for the embankment lent its self to it.
But now track laid and tested the coach overhang is rather unprotypical but with space constraints tight curves are par for the course. It works that’s the main thing on a 3 coach West Country hauled train. Wrong coaches for the NCL but what I had to hand.

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Probably ballast next .
Cheers.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
A few photos missing in the above posts. Because I linked the photos direct from RMWeb and as many of you will know the forum went down with loss of data. It looks like on revival the photos are gone.
I’ll see if I can add those back in again that are missing.
Put them back in this evening 02/05/2022.
 
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Andy P

Western Thunderer
Hi Age, Found you on here at last, now I need to go back and catch up on your antics. but with a bit of Bulleid and Southern you have my attention. Looking good.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Hi Age, Found you on here at last, now I need to go back and catch up on your antics. but with a bit of Bulleid and Southern you have my attention. Looking good.
Cheers Andy now that is a compliment from the layout builder extraordinaire.
Cheers
 
Starting Viaduct Again with New Track Gauges

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
I didn’t like that tight curve and the front bogie wheel on the West County was derailing. Funny as testing it with the tracked pinned it was ok but with track glued down hopeless.
It had to come out.
Also been to tight to invest in some tracksetta templates and used fixed radius curves as a guide for the flex track.
Anyway saw some cheap mdf ones on Model Rail and ordered a 15” and 18” not very long but do the job.
so Im looking at easing the bend to 15” as it was (but I had it a bit tighter three parts the way round!) then easing out to 18” at that point.

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But stripping that out has given better access to the cliff I’m doing just behind it, so I laid in some foam.
Pic’s tomorrow hopefully.
Cheeers
 
Removable Hillock right of Quay?

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Messing about trying to get the rock face somewhere handy.
But thoughts turned to the quayside siding.
Toying with a removable hillock with sidings underneath.
An loading warehouse or engine shed with through roads.
Or keeping it open.
Not sure which way to go.
Plonked some buildings and a couple of dogfish on for some idea of scale.

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I’m liking the warehouse engine shed idea less so.
just needs a hillock or something I feel and another idea on the sidings layout.
Cheers.
 
Chelfam Station Building

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
I went for an open space around the sidings with a stream/pond. Photos of that once I have done a bit more and it’s worth posting.
In the meantime rain today on a little break to the coast so always a chance to do a little modelling, the brushes came out. The cheap acrylic paint has to go though. Serious lack of coverage! Tamiya I think is where it’s at. Though heard good things of mig and Vallejo is it?

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Laser cut kit of Chelfam on the Lynton and Barnstaple, has its issues but I think it might turn out half decent.
Cheers for the likes and thanks for looking in.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Cheap acrylics can be improved upon in their application by using say Tamiya thinners to dilute rather than water, which rather negates the benefit of their lower initial cost, Ade. They also stick better to plastic/styrene surfaces if primed first.

Vallejo and Mig are excellent if a little expensive. Vallejo range especially is designed to be diluted with water and still provide a quality finish, although directed more at the airbrush market.

Tamiya is sold quite cheaply by my local model shop and can be diluted with both water and their own thinners (X-20A?), although for airbrushing, I play safe and stick to their own brand of thinners.

If time is not of the essence, Humbrol enamels are still the cheapest option diluted with a drop of white spirit either in airbrush or straight paint brushing use, although it’s best to prime the plastic surface first.

Jonte
 

pricei

Western Thunderer
I got my first airbrush recently and have been impressed with the Vallejo Model Air range. The paint doesn't need to be thinned and there's a useful selection of airbrush-ready primers, too. Although Vallejo doesn't offer specific 'railway colours' there are over 200 different shades available and, with a little experimentation, I've managed to get a reasonable match for most of my requirements so far.
Ian
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Cheap acrylics can be improved upon in their application by using say Tamiya thinners to dilute rather than water, which rather negates the benefit of their lower initial cost, Ade. They also stick better to plastic/styrene surfaces if primed first.

Vallejo and Mig are excellent if a little expensive. Vallejo range especially is designed to be diluted with water and still provide a quality finish, although directed more at the airbrush market.

Tamiya is sold quite cheaply by my local model shop and can be diluted with both water and their own thinners (X-20A?), although for airbrushing, I play safe and stick to their own brand of thinners.

If time is not of the essence, Humbrol enamels are still the cheapest option diluted with a drop of white spirit either in airbrush or straight paint brushing use, although it’s best to prime the plastic surface first.

Jonte
Thanks Jonte, the shell is primed with grey car body primer probably wanted another coat ot two though maybe.
The paint thinned with water was not much better than water so I brushed it on neat straight out the tube!
I also bought the tube of green here away from home also cheap £1.50 for that big tube the set was a pound.
Im thinking of Matt varnishing it all a couple coats when I get home and investing in some decent paint.
I do have humbrol enamels but trying to get away from them due to the smell etc.
Cheers for the comment.
 
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