LBSCR Horsebox C1856

mswjr

Western Thunderer
I think super glue is the answer, you can get some more expensive super glues that will give you a bit of time, you need to position them and not want it sticking instantly, I think that glues like rapid araldite may be too thick with that size bolt, so yea super glue, then when set in the correct position run a bit more around the bolt.
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Dummy nuts and bolts glued on with super glue. I was going to use 16BA but opted for 14BA in the end saving some 48 16BA nuts! They're getting to be like hen's teeth nowadays. Bye the way, I bought a new batch of 16BA nuts from a different supplier, and they have been made from a slightly larger hexagon rod. The reason for change of supplier is because my go to one can't buy them at a decent enough price.
As the wheels were almost finished, they need just painting, I decided to see what a horsebox would look like with wheels under it. I have heard these small boxes described as a sugar cube on wheels and, I can see the similarity.IMG_4858.JPG

Jon
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
This set up is so Heath Robinson that I thought that it deserved a picture. I'm positioning the top frame member ready for a drop of mec-pac to hold it in place. When it's set, I'll line up the other end and then put a drop of mec-pac on that as well. There's a aluminium spacer under the rectangular steel block that keeps it the correct distance from the top of the lower door. The frame member is a little proud but when all is cured, I'll plane it level with the curved end. This way there'll be more surface area to attach the roof to.

Jon

P.S. The rubber band, courtesy of Royal Mail, pulls the ends in just a tad which makes it a bit easier to align and hold the frame member.

IMG_4861-001.JPG
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
These pictures show the upper half of the horsebox side. The left hand panel is a sliding door, the middle panel is fixed and the right hand panel is louvred ventilation. What I can't understand is, on the left hand sliding panel, what are those two uprights doing to the left and right of the sliding door. The left upright with the 'knob' could be a means of sliding it open from the outside. My thinking is that it's two inches or so thick with a rebate to enable it to oversail the frame upright at the corners.
The right hand upright. Is this of the same make up as the left? Trouble is, I can't work out how it's fixed. The drawing shows it's right hand edge in line with left hand edge of the frame upright with no visible means of holding it in place. Any ideas anyone? Even a no would be something. :)

Jon


IMG_4862.JPG



IMG_4863.JPG
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
All three panels, as you refer to them, are all part of a single 'flap', hinged from the top. I don't see that the left panel slides - but is possibly removable.

My take is that the vertical rods, at the extreme left and just partly visible at the extreme right, could be part of some sort of propping up mechanism, for when the 'flap' is lifted - despite the weight involved.

-Brian McK.
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
I agree with Brian that the rods are part of the door opening mechanism - I may have more details of that somewhere but basically you drop the large lower door which falls onto your foot and the bars and rods make sure that the upper door is raised at the same time, neatly catching you on the chin. But as for the left panel having horizontal boards plus those two vertical pieces which seem to be flush with the other boards ... I have no idea.

Mike
 
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Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
This picture shows the upper and lower channels that the door slides in but not the two uprights on the outside which are more my concern. Oh well, someone may come up with something.

Jon

IMG_4864.JPG
 

ianlbsc

Western Thunderer
I think the outer frame has chamfers, so it looks like the two vertical parts of the inner frame are flush whereas they are set back the depth of the outside frame. The horsebox at the bottom of the photo is one of these and shows it. Cheers, Ian
1669280646302.jpeg
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
I think the outer frame has chamfers, so it looks like the two vertical parts of the inner frame are flush whereas they are set back the depth of the outside frame. The horsebox at the bottom of the photo is one of these and shows it. Cheers, Ian
View attachment 174988
Ian
I understand what you are saying and that is a good answer. The only thing is that the horse box at the bottom of the picture isn’t quite the same as mine. For example, the louvres seem to extend down much further than the one that I’m building.

Jon
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Ian
That's an interesting photo. With the sliding door open, it looks as if there is only one vertical and that's the one with the knob on it. The dark line nearest to the cross brace framing I think is shadow, Mmm.
I tried to download the picture in order to make it lighter but wasn't able to.

Jon
 

Rob R

Western Thunderer
Jon,
I am rubbish at woodwork but I suspect your little sliding door looks a bit like this:-
Horse box door 01.jpg
Tongue and grooved with pins and copious amounts of horse glue to keep it together.........

Rob
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
The GA drawings show this for the small sliding door -
horsebox door.jpg
Vertical boards on the inside with full thickness vertical stiles both ends of the door and horizontal beaded edge tongue and groove boards on the outside. The outer boards would have tongues cut on the ends to slot into the groove on the verticals. The planks would have been either 3/8 or 1/2 inch so the total thickness of the door would have been 3/4 or 1 inch. I realised I haven't drawn the drilled recess in the stile which would have been a finger hold, and drew one of the beaded edges on one of the boards on the wrong side of the joint. This type of construction was used by the Caledonian Railway and others for cupboard type doors on wagons.

This is a 1859 Wright & Sons horse box, with the small sliding door on the outside, but with drilled finger pulls. Plus the much more common side hinged upper doors.
f10.jpg
 
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