Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Mike - I'm not Ian! ;D
I understand where you're coming from, but I don't like the idea of having the bogie frames live. It would save some effort, but I'm content to go for separate pickups.
JB - I'd like to see Pete's reaction when he sees it, which I hope he will at some point.
Thanks for the kind words everyone, I'm just amazed that it's worked as intended, still there's more to do yet. I'll leave you with a closer view of the bogie.
[attachimg=1]
I understand where you're coming from, but I don't like the idea of having the bogie frames live. It would save some effort, but I'm content to go for separate pickups.
JB - I'd like to see Pete's reaction when he sees it, which I hope he will at some point.
Thanks for the kind words everyone, I'm just amazed that it's worked as intended, still there's more to do yet. I'll leave you with a closer view of the bogie.
[attachimg=1]
Attachments
Pennine MC
Western Thunderer
iploffy said:
That's going to cause a little confusion. Mind if we call you 'Bruce'? ;D
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Not quite over the 120 days this time, but by 'eck I'm dragging this project out! It's still been a while since the last update though... I was hoping to have the first bogie finished by now, but I stumbled across a problem when it came to fit the brake gear that I hadn't taken into consideration.
The kit parts are nicely lost-wax cast brass, and sit very close to the wheels, which looks great and wouldn't be a problem with the resin 'lump' bogie supplied in the kit. However, it will cause problems with the etched construction of my modified version. I looked at various options, but have decided that making resin copies of the kit parts is the easiest option. If I do this again, I'll have to devise an insulated mount.
I've also now devised and fitted pickups to the first bogie. These consist of a piece of phosphor bronze strip, folded in half, with a contact pad of brass soldered to the end, to prevent pitting of the steel wheels. These mount on top of an L shaped piece of brass, soldered to the front face of the copperclad board, which is glued to the resin bogie cross member. The photos below probably show it better than I can describe it!
The pickup assembly in situ:
The assembly itself:
I was a bit worried that they'd look obviously out of place when viewed from the front, but I think they're OK, especially as all the hoses etc will be in the way at the front, and the fuel tanks at the rear:
It's looking quite crowded now, with the brake gear still to fit! The second bogie is also coming along nicely, and should be as complete as the first soon, especially if I get enough time over the weekend.
I do sometime wonder whether I might have been better off designing and manufacturing my own, complete, replacement units, but it's too late for that now!
The kit parts are nicely lost-wax cast brass, and sit very close to the wheels, which looks great and wouldn't be a problem with the resin 'lump' bogie supplied in the kit. However, it will cause problems with the etched construction of my modified version. I looked at various options, but have decided that making resin copies of the kit parts is the easiest option. If I do this again, I'll have to devise an insulated mount.
I've also now devised and fitted pickups to the first bogie. These consist of a piece of phosphor bronze strip, folded in half, with a contact pad of brass soldered to the end, to prevent pitting of the steel wheels. These mount on top of an L shaped piece of brass, soldered to the front face of the copperclad board, which is glued to the resin bogie cross member. The photos below probably show it better than I can describe it!
The pickup assembly in situ:
The assembly itself:
I was a bit worried that they'd look obviously out of place when viewed from the front, but I think they're OK, especially as all the hoses etc will be in the way at the front, and the fuel tanks at the rear:
It's looking quite crowded now, with the brake gear still to fit! The second bogie is also coming along nicely, and should be as complete as the first soon, especially if I get enough time over the weekend.
I do sometime wonder whether I might have been better off designing and manufacturing my own, complete, replacement units, but it's too late for that now!
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
I can't stop the bloody things from rusting, no matter what I try! It's a shame that there's no real alternative, although I have got some Roxey wheels for the 108, maybe they'll fare a little better.Nice to see those Slaters wheels rusting like mine
I've heard that the gun blue helps, I'll have to get some and give it a go.
the Roxy wheels do seem a bit better. 
28ten
Guv'nor
Im going to archive that quote and bring it back when you finish itMost of it, except the drivetrain
I bet you end up doing the whole underframe, as soon as you start looking seriously under any MU it is a big job......
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Just cought up with this thread - what an amazing piece of work on those bogies Pugsley. Most impressive. As to the rusting wheels, I have the same problem, in a nice cosy warm and dry room, with a whiff of flux and they seem to rust like hell. Dont know what the answer is...
Regards
Tony
Regards
Tony
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tony. I guess the only answer is to keep the wheels put away when soldering, which I haven't been able to do this time as the torque reaction arms need to be soldered to the motor brackets, due to a bit of design deficiency early in the process. The Mk2 variant, when I get round to it, will be quite different in a number of ways.
I did think that Simon V's safety flux would be OK, but it still has the same effect.
I did think that Simon V's safety flux would be OK, but it still has the same effect.
28ten
Guv'nor
Im not even sure it is flux, they just seem very prone to rusting.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Running them might keep the wheels clean, but that is probably not applicable to S7 .............seriously though, maybe it's lower quality imported steel these days ?
.............seriously though, maybe it's lower quality imported steel these days ?
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
I always had terrible trouble with Slater's wheels rusting, and changed the flux a few times, even tried washing my hands first because somebody said it's sweaty hands !! What I find keeps the rust at bay now is to blacken the wheels with Birchwood casey, works everytime for me 
. What I do first is to degrease the wheels with turps or w/spirit, then wash with water and dry them gently with SWMBO'ds hair dryer, then blacken the wheels while still warm. I apply the blackening with a cotton bud sorry ( Her cotton buds ) , and rub in thoroughly and wash off to neutralise. Never had a problem since.
ATB, Martyn.
. What I do first is to degrease the wheels with turps or w/spirit, then wash with water and dry them gently with SWMBO'ds hair dryer, then blacken the wheels while still warm. I apply the blackening with a cotton bud sorry ( Her cotton buds ) , and rub in thoroughly and wash off to neutralise. Never had a problem since.ATB, Martyn.
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Running them might keep the wheels clean, but that is probably not applicable to S7
Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll get some of the gun blue and give that a go.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I always had terrible trouble with Slater's wheels rusting, and changed the flux a few times, even tried washing my hands first because somebody said it's sweaty hands !! What I find keeps the rust at bay now is to blacken the wheels with Birchwood casey, works everytime for me
ATB, Martyn.
Hi Martyn,
Could you possibly post a pic of some wheels treated with Gun Blue ? , I currently use Carrs Metal Black (which looks good but does not stop the rust), but I would be most interested to see the results
Cheers Phill
