In and Out Buildings - Thoughts and Research

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
I think this may be a good time to recap the planning and building of the Motor House as an outbuilding which happens to be for holding and working on a vintage car but could just as easily have been for a reasonable size model railway layout. The title of the thread also implies a comparison between an in-building and an out-building and I now have one of each though in different countries.

Planning

All important, every minute was worth while. First to research what is available, find out how suitable the build structure will be and then compare costs.

I ended up choosing a log cabin structure from logcabins.co.uk (KEOPS). This was a good choice. I don't think the structure is particularly expensive to buy and erect when compared with typical shed offerings from garden centres and the like. Some "bespoke" shed type structures turned out to be more expensive which is surprising (if the National Trust name is on the product, you will pay more!). My structure ended up costing around £13,000 for slab, kit, erection and paint. However, I did the site preparation for the pouring of the slab and also did the wood treatment and painting myself.

Do check up on local planning regulations. We could have had problems if located in a nearby National Park, for example, and we were also able to stay more than 2m from boundary lines, a big consideration.

Obtain estimates for work and in particular to compare with jobs you can do yourself. I was able to combine the slab pouring with other landscape work which saved a lot.

Execution

During the CoVid-19 lockdown I could not visit sites to see examples of the products being considered. In this case KEOPS have an excellent web site, by far the best out there. Contact by email and telephone to WFH employees was always timely and friendly. All the people involved, from designer to accounting, to logistics, delivery and construction were really helpful. Management was never involved and never needed to be.

The construction site in our vegetable garden proved to be a bit of a nightmare with greenhouse and other foundations built to frustrate a simple land clearance. A Gorilla Bar turned out to be a saviour! A greenfield site would have been very simple to deal with. Drainage should be a consideration as well during the planning process. Better to be elevated more than less.

As noted above, the concrete pouring was combined with other work. Definitely a cost saving given the distance from the road to the slab site.

I was worried about the location and access for delivering the kit packages. In fact I need not have worried at all. The main delivery truck used a Moffett to carry the packages from the main road, down our private cul de sac and onto the front lawn. Subsequently the construction team unpacked and carried the components to the construction site. Construction by two employees took two days. They worked hard!

My second stint of work involved treating the timber outside and in and then painting the outside. I am very pleased I chose the materials recommended by KEOPS, namely Cuprinol 5 star and Sadolin opaque paint. It is important to follow instructions and not apply coats too quickly, they need to soak in and dry out (Cuprinol) and cure (Sadolin) before recoating. Wet weather in July and August proved to delay the painting process from an expected 2 weeks to a month.

Impressions

Visitors have been impressed with the quality of the log cabin design and many were surprised that the company custom designed what I wanted, not provide what they could offer from a limited range. This was a big plus in my opinion.

I did not let the slab dry out completely before painting the floor. My mistake which will be rectified next year. This problem is not over the entire slab, I was just too hasty.

Wood can and will shrink across the grain. The window and door designs take this into account but full instructions are provided for making any additional adjustments that may be required.

The Future

I have yet to install electricity though a supply is already present adjacent to the site. This will be a priority.

I have also not addressed the surrounding area, including a short driveway to the up and over door and a small terraced area outside the French doors.

Water butts will be added to both gutter downpipes.

Comparisons

A loft conversion is an option for model railways but not for vintage cars! However, an outbuilding can offer garden railway running where a loft cannot.

Brick built garages can be very cold and damp, I am hoping the timber walls and roof will reduced dampness during the winter. Double glazing may help keep the log structure warmer than the existing garage. We'll see!

The converted home movie theater in France is, in many ways ideal for that location, given the higher summer and winter temperatures and lower overall humidity, but I am not so sure it would be as ideal in damp, cold England during 6 months of the year unless it has central heating

Good lighting will always be important and I am finding the new LED offerings to be an excellent choice for both locations. Portable battery powered lighting is also now inexpensive and ideal for working under cars and baseboards!

Any questions I have not addressed will be answered in the posts that follow.
 
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Focalplane

Western Thunderer
I finally got the bill for the foundation preparation, concrete pouring and power floating. £2,350. This sum does not include any of my hard labour in clearing the site and preparing the substrate. It included the shuttering and leveling, the mesh reinforcing, the rc35 concrete with fibers, the piping in and leveling and finally the power float.

To bad it rained all day!
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Yes, Chris and Brian, but remember that the work was done while other landscaping projects were under way. As a standalone job I know it would have cost more, particularly in the rental of equipment to pipe and pump the concrete over the roof of our house. And those trucks are expensive!
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
I am slowly kitting out the Motor House and the latest project is my work bench. Other than the screws this cost me nothing. The thick plywood top was left by the vendor in the house in France so I cut three pieces and screwed then together to give a flat top with no screws on the surface. This was designed to fit in the car.

The frame and legs were all surplus builder’s materials that would have gone into the skip.

First, upside down with three legs attached:

0452FD50-D2EC-4760-8635-417120FF8985.jpeg

And finished and in place under the windows:

4AFF9BCB-8482-4C10-B1A7-25DFC0CF1EBD.jpeg

A simple shelf will go underneath.

A satisfying job done!
 

simond

Western Thunderer
If you’re going to use that vice in earnest, you’ll need it screwing to the wall, or diagonals on the legs, or both!
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Yes, that’s what I found out with its French cousin! One reason why it is located in that position, ready to be fixed in place when I have the time (too many Honey Dos!)
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
The wiring in the Motor House is now up and running. The LED lights from France do an excellent job but one of of them has failed already (5 year warranty lasted 5 minutes). I'll get it replaced next time I can get to a Leroy Merlin store. I have not had any Continental outlets wired in but this could be done later. As I now have very few Continental plugged tools this is less of a problem.

Heating the Motor House will improve once the concrete slab comes to equilibrium with the ground below, it is still damp in places. A small heater has been acquired to assist the process. I will also insulate the inside of the metal garage door with 1" thick sheeting. I can't say that shirt sleeve working is possible yet, but it has been freezing outside the past few days.

I still have shelving to put up, again using materials left over from the construction. These planks are tongue and groove so will need to be trimmed on the table saw. I also have some framed photos to hang but I think it best to wait for the humidity to come down.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Dehumidifier?

I had an e-discussion with the late lamented David LO Smith about heating garages, and I recall that his suggestion was to use a dehumidifier rather than a heater. Not tried it in the garage, but it certainly it worked well on my boat, and I think it is very much cheaper to run. Particularly good if you can get one which has the hose connection so the collected water can be drained away directly.
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Good point, Simon! I had a dehumidifier in my garage in Houston many years ago. After hurricane Alicia in 1982 it helped a great deal to bring life back to normal. As I am spending time in the building, however, I would like the heating on as well as the drying!
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Just ordered one! Floating down the big South American river as I write this, will be useful in the garage at the front of the house as well. Don’t know why I didn't think of it, so Thanks, Simon!
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Oh, yes! That’s to Tony

To Michael, yes, they do give off heat, but it only feels like heat in Houston after a hurricane, when what you really want is the a/c back on!
 
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Focalplane

Western Thunderer
The dehumidifier finally arrived 5 days late and is now standing waiting for the refrigerant to settle before being turned on. The instructions say nothing about this which may explain some of the 1 star comments in the product’s reviews. “Turned it on but it never worked “
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
The recent wet weather has proved that my weatherproofing is about 95% good, but there is a remaining small leak which has been identified and will be caulked when dry weather returns. Then the area can be painted with Sadolin which will hopefully finish the job.

The reason for the leak is entirely the south west facing wall that catches the rain and does not have any guttering (as it is a gable). The rain runs down the wall until it meets the lower levels where the small leaks have been identified.

The bottom line to this small problem is to consider using an overhang in the design of the gable end walls and roof. This can be factored in during the design stage of the KEOPS design.

Heating during the winter is an interesting subject in itself. I have two heaters to use, one a radiant heater fixed above the workbench, the other a fan heater that can be plugged in wherever it may be needed. The two designs work quite differently, one heats the air passing through it (fan heater) one heats up whatever is in its radiant path, typically the person standing at the workbench (radiant heater). Ideally, I would suggest the compromise is 1Kw radiant plus 1Kw fan.

Humidity remains high due to the rain, hardly surprising but at least it is lower than it was. Now down to 61%.

Meanwhile, the Kestrel is slowly being dismantled for the cosmetic work. The best news is that the car is now on blocks and the frame/chassis has been inspected and is in excellent condition.
 
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