Handbuilt Track Outdoors

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
All,

I'll likely have a task to replace 4 tracks on a lifting bridge which resides outdoors all year long, with a request to build on longitudinal timbers. Thoughts or experience of using C&L/Exactoscale chairs on either plastic or wood/walnut timbers outdoors would be gratefully received.

Ian
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Mmm, that could be a challenge.

What’s the weather like where it is? Is it in direct sunlight for any/some/all of the day?
 

Bill Campbell

Western Thunderer
Hi Ian

Does the bridge itself have to remain outdoors?
My experience is that small section timber, even if well treated, does not last well outdoors.

For my own garden layout the two bridges both lift away and are stored in the garage. When required each is simply dropped in place.
The track on each uses Peco chairs on timber strip - this is for 16mm scale 32mm gauge. My track is not electrified - steam and battery power are used.

I presume the tracks on the bridge need to be live and so electrical connections will be needed and so explains the thinking in keeping the bridge outdoors. Have you considered a trailing cable with a multiway plug and socket?

Regards.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
The bridge is substantial (steel) and hinged. When not in use it is folded back, so the track will be upside down. It has been fine with Peco flexi-track, but we need to carry out some adjustments. One long term problem is the ballast coming loose. It only receives direct sunlight when we are running.

Ian
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Ian,

I have no experience of plastic chairs on wooden sleepers outdoors - the layouts I have worked on had whitemetal chairs pinned on traditional coarse scale sleepers themselves pinned to battens, copperclad soldered, and Peco. Indoors, they’re fine, afaik. I hope.

if I were going outdoors now I would use Peco, as its long term reliability is established. All you have to do is clean it.

The pins needed re-inserting with tedious regularity, and after a time the copper dissolved, evaporated or oxidised, possibly all three, as what was left would not hold the rails to gauge, and can’t be soldered to, not matter how much flux you use. To be fair, the copperclad pointwork gave good service for twenty years, and was within a couple of hundred metres of the sea, but was recently replaced with Peco.

I’d be concerned about the UV stability of the plastic used for the chairs, the general stability of the wooden longitudinals, and the expected lifetime of the glued joint between them. I guess the loads are not high if the rails are straight and they can move lengthways in the chairs as they expand & contract relative to the timber and the steel. That suggests that maybe greasing the rail with something like silicone when building it might help. Don’t get the silicone on the models!

I guess some mechanically fixed cast brass chairs, interspersed amongst the plastic ones might be a reliable solution?

hth
Simon
 

Stephen Freeman

Western Thunderer
Depends on location. Copperclad works but nothing lasts forever. You might have a look at Cliff Barkers offerings but they are really G1 or Coarse 0.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Depends on location. Copperclad works but nothing lasts forever. You might have a look at Cliff Barkers offerings but they are really G1 or Coarse 0.
Hi Stephen,

The railway had some copperclad points built many years ago, when that part of the railway was outside, and they were nothing but trouble due to "feeze thaw" action de-laminating the copper from the paxolin over the years.

Ian
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Ian,

I’d be concerned about the UV stability of the plastic used for the chairs, the general stability of the wooden longitudinals, and the expected lifetime of the glued joint between them. I guess the loads are not high if the rails are straight and they can move lengthways in the chairs as they expand & contract relative to the timber and the steel. That suggests that maybe greasing the rail with something like silicone when building it might help. Don’t get the silicone on the models!

I guess some mechanically fixed cast brass chairs, interspersed amongst the plastic ones might be a reliable solution?

hth
Simon
Hi Simon,

The silicone suggestion is a good one.
As for mechanical fixing of chairs, I'll have to have a think about that one, as the longitudinal timbers will be bonded to the steel deck of the bridge.

Hmmmmmmmmm, how about some inverted brass channel with brass chairs soldered to it mounted on wood strip ?

Cheers,

Ian
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Thermal coefficient of expansion…. Rails, brass, wood, steel…. Make sure they can move!


the header picture made me smile!
Simon,

Ha ha...we had a little of that this past summer. Thankfully it straightened itself out.

The brass channel can sit on top of the wood (tight fit) and not be glued/bonded to it. If I do the wood in short sections I can do the brass channel in four sections with gaps to allow for expansion/contraction. The rail lengths will be two sections and I'll put CWR style expansion joints in them.

Ian
 
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