7mm Dave D`s Bench

david duxbury

Active Member
Just finished after 3 weeks on and off a set of 9F wheels for a MOK build (In the near future :rolleyes:). I actually bought the castings back in 2018 from Mark Woods when he first cast them in 7mm scale. The castings fill the gap left by the Alan Harris wheels and are very nice castings which replicate the full sized wheels perfectly with spoke and rim detail on rear of casting as well (something not on the Alan Harris wheel) A nice touch of detail even if never seen. The wheels where finished machined using a form tool but i had to turn the chuck by hand as my small variable speed Warco lathe did not have the torque to manage the task at less than 100 rpm. The crankpin nuts are the Alan Harris type supplied by CPL Products and are a nice finishing touch. The wheels are insulated on both sides on the axles and the crankpins then fitted on telescopic 3/16" axles supplied by Mark. The last set of wheels I machined were for a Finney Bulleid light pacific and supplied by Walsall Model Industries Which also machined up nice, Not quite the detail of the Woods wheels but far cheaper.

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david duxbury

Active Member
Just finished the busiest backhead i have ever done. Three good days work in total but quite therapeutic. The only negative of the Bulleid backhead build was retrieving broken 0.3mm drills from the oil boxes. I always drill out all of the pipe holes in all of the fittings deeper as I hate wires falling out later in the build, but this sometimes results in the breaking of drills :headbang:
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P A D

Western Thunderer
Impressive!

I do also drill deeper holes in cast parts, mainly to get rid of the plaster that blocks the holes. Before I do, I anneal the parts. I believe this softens the brass or nickel silver and helps avoiding broken drills and many swearwords.

Michael
That sounds reasonable Michael. I'll give that a go next time I need to drill out some holes in cast brass or nickel silver.
Cheers,
Peter
 

david duxbury

Active Member
Carrying on with a Bulleid Full metal jacket build in nickel silver, not one for the purist as it is going to stay in bare metal. I have therefor decided to rebuild a nearly completed tender in attempt to improve my quality of build as following all of Mickoo`s threads makes me envious. :rolleyes: Starting with the invisible or nearly invisible solder, apply as little as possible. only apply where necessary and apply from inside or hidden sides.
Also deviating away from build order of play by adding details whilst etches are still in the flat and building sub assemblies made more possible by the fact it is an unpainted model. most white metal castings are being replaced by brass/NS castings or scratch build.
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Vacuum tanks made from solid NS bar, then decided to drill out from back to remove some weight and make soldering easier. White metal tank supports replace with NS bar. TIA tank folded up from sheet.
 
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