simond
Western Thunderer
Following a brief discussion in Heather’s coach-building thread, herewith a brief description of my tool for making the “G” shaped commode handles from wire. I made it for 7mm, because I’m too miserly to purchase Slaters ones!
When I did this, Slaters lost-wax brass were about 50p each, and the three toplights I was building would need 44, so I chose to make them. Using wire, rather than the correct flattened oval, means that the characteristic fixings are not modelled, so you might wish to look away! That said, they do have to look regular, so the newly purchased Proxxon MF70 mill got used in anger to create a tool around which I could form the handles.
The jig is a bit of Tufnol, though brass or aluminium, or even steel, would be fine. Two 0.7 holes drilled at 3.8mm spacing to suit the coaches, then the top of the block milled away 2mm to leave an “island” sticking up adjacent to the holes. Slot milled to intersect with the upper hole. The corners of the “island” were rounded off with a file, and the job’s jobbed.
Of course, you could CNC machine it if you have the kit, and I guess it wouldn’t be too hard to make with a drill press, and hand tools.
To use it, simply bend one end of a bit of 0.5mm brass wire to 90 degrees, stick it in the hole, keeping taut, pull it round the “island”, and bend down the slot in the edge. With thumbnail firmly holding it at the back, use fine nose pliers to form the final bend into the slot. Pull off jig, trim upper pin to length, repeat.
Fit into predrilled holes in the painted body, secure with glue.
These three show a little variation, the best, imo, is the left-most one, the centre one is a little disappointing, but, from a coachlength away, you’d struggle to see it.
hope this is useful
atb
Simon
When I did this, Slaters lost-wax brass were about 50p each, and the three toplights I was building would need 44, so I chose to make them. Using wire, rather than the correct flattened oval, means that the characteristic fixings are not modelled, so you might wish to look away! That said, they do have to look regular, so the newly purchased Proxxon MF70 mill got used in anger to create a tool around which I could form the handles.
The jig is a bit of Tufnol, though brass or aluminium, or even steel, would be fine. Two 0.7 holes drilled at 3.8mm spacing to suit the coaches, then the top of the block milled away 2mm to leave an “island” sticking up adjacent to the holes. Slot milled to intersect with the upper hole. The corners of the “island” were rounded off with a file, and the job’s jobbed.
Of course, you could CNC machine it if you have the kit, and I guess it wouldn’t be too hard to make with a drill press, and hand tools.
To use it, simply bend one end of a bit of 0.5mm brass wire to 90 degrees, stick it in the hole, keeping taut, pull it round the “island”, and bend down the slot in the edge. With thumbnail firmly holding it at the back, use fine nose pliers to form the final bend into the slot. Pull off jig, trim upper pin to length, repeat.
Fit into predrilled holes in the painted body, secure with glue.
These three show a little variation, the best, imo, is the left-most one, the centre one is a little disappointing, but, from a coachlength away, you’d struggle to see it.
hope this is useful
atb
Simon
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