Church Norton

[Jordan]

The cat is right about where I would expect to find it. Shake my head.

I keep warning about the dangers of using kitty litter for ballast...

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Guys,

I have almost finished the station, just some troublesome drain pipes and some weathering to finish the building off.

Then it will be back to baseboard construction and followed by some more permanent way, only this time I will not be sidelined by buildings or scenery. I will crack on until the roundy roundy joins up, famous last words.



I have a confession to make, I have always built my locos ( sometimes with a little bit of scratch building usually because some of the old kits were c**p ). But I couldn't help myself and I have gone and ordered a Dapol 08 albeit an early one in green, still I can always sell it on if the guilt becomes overwhelming....

Martyn.

 

[MarkR]

Hi

The station looks great I have read back
on your thread and can't see mention of it.

Is it a kit, or scratch built?

 

[john lewsey]

That's stunning

 

[3 LINK]

Hi

The station looks great I have read back
on your thread and can't see mention of it.

Is it a kit, or scratch built?

Hi Stewart,

I am a bit out of my comfort zone when it comes to building, so yes it's a kit from Timber tracks and is made mostly from laser cut MDF.

That's stunning

Hi John,

Thank you for your kind words, it makes a change from building locos and track work.

All the best,

Martyn.

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Martyn,

Great job, did you prime the MDF first and follow that up with Acrylics?

cheers

Mike

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Mike,

I used a Humbrol acrylic paint " Desert tan " as a sort of primer, this was recommended by Brian in the instructions. Then I use Humbrol enamel colours to make up the brick colour I'm after.

The only thing I would say is you cannot rely on a diluted mortar colour mix to flow between the bricks like you can with embossed plastikard, I think this is because even after a primer coat the MDF causes the paint to drag for want of a better word.

Regards,

Martyn.

 

[Compton castle]

Lovely job Martyn,

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Martyn,

many thanks for your reply, I shall experiment with the back wall of the three structures and see what transpires and report back.

regards

Mike

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Guys,

I need some safety railings for my goods platform so I thought I would make some up out of some brass tube and wire I have knocking around.

Also my good friend " Grasshopper John " has just brought the same mini pillar drill/ milling machine that I have, so I thought I would show him what it is capable of.

The brass tube has an o/d of 1.2mm and the wire is 0.7mm, the drill bit I used is 0.75mm, so the tolerances are quite fine for drilling a hole through the tube.





Just the one drill bit was used, no breakages.

Martyn.

 

[daifly]

This post didn't end quite like I thought it was going too. It had reminded me of a story some 50+ years ago of an American company that made very fine tubes that sent a sample to a UK company as an example of what the US could do. The British company sent it back with one of their own tubes inside it....!
Dave
p.s. nice railings - back on topic!

 

[Overseer]

Hi Guys,

I need some safety railings for my goods platform so I thought I would make some up out of some brass tube and wire I have knocking around.

Also my good friend " Grasshopper John " has just brought the same mini pillar drill/ milling machine that I have, so I thought I would show him what it is capable of.

The brass tube has an o/d of 1.2mm and the wire is 0.7mm, the drill bit I used is 0.75mm, so the tolerances are quite fine for drilling a hole through the tube.



Just the one drill bit was used, no breakages.

Martyn.

The railings look good, but how did you do it? How do you hold the tube? How do you stop the drill wandering off the curved surface? What speed did you use? Did you mark out the tubes or use the X-Y table for spacing the holes?

 

[3 LINK]

The tube was held in a very basic vice that I have been meaning to replace for quite a while now, but it does the job see photo. The drill bit needs to be new and I find that if you feed the bit down slowly with minimal pressure the bit does not wander on the curved surface. The speed was around 6,000 rpm which is slow for this machine as it has a range from 5,000 up to 20,000 rpm. I used the X-Y table for the spacing of the holes, the table has zero adjustable scales with 1 revolution = 1mm, or 1 division = 0.05mm. The main problem is lining the work up by eye in the first place, hence the use of my late Grandmothers magnifying glass ( bless her ).



Cheers,

Martyn.

 

[Overseer]

Thanks Martyn. That helps a lot. I have one of the MF70 mills but haven't used it as a drill press yet.

 

[3 LINK]

The MF70 is not a bad piece of kit even though some folk see them as a bit of a novelty, I milled some frames for a WD 2-8-0 out of N/silver without any problems a while back.

As for my lathe, well I could really do with updating that as it was made in 1947, and let's just say she's not as tight as she use to be !

Cheers,

Martyn.

 

[3 LINK]

A Merry Christmas to you all,



Martyn.

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Guys,

Whilst at the Bristol show I brought some more supplies from C&L , hopefully enough to complete the rest of the track work I need to complete the roundy roundy. Sited on the goods loop line there is an outside slip which will feed the goods yard itself and also a longish head shunt. I have been putting off building this turnout because of its complexity but it wasn't that bad after all, well it was easier than a double slip in my opinion. Well 3 more turnouts to build and then it's on to the wiring and ballasting, oh deep joy!



Cheers,

Martyn.

 

[Compton castle]

Looks great

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Mate,

some mighty nice point work there, but I think that you may have got two check rails in the wrong positions. The first one is on the straight line running from bottom left to top right, it should be opposite the first vee. The second one is on the straight line running from bottom right to top left it should be opposite the last vee.
It could be down to the track template showing them in the wrong place as it looks like both of them are out by about five sleeper spaces.

Roll on Sat. us v the frogs.

OzzyO.

PS. looking at it again the first check rail on the straight running from bottom right to top left looks like it's only covering the first vee when it should cover both of the vees.

 

[daifly]

I remember having some EM gauge Exactoscale templates many years ago which had this same error. Fortunately Len Newman pointed out his error when I bought them!
Dave