3D Printing Issue

[Spike]

Recently my Anycubic Mono M5S Pro has started failing mid print.

It prints the first 10 or so layers and then nothing, I went back to the base settings from Siraya tech for their fast navy grey resin, and same result. The next step was to change from using Lychee to Chitubox in case there was an issue with the slicing software, again same result 10 or so layers and then nothing.

I have even changed the FEP thinking that could have been the issue, but alas no luck.

Has anyone encountered this type of behaviour before and shed any light on what I might be doing wrong.

I am trying to print the Amera labs town calibration print as I started getting failures on some prints where to odd couple of items on the build plate would fail.



Regards
Peter

 

[Rob R]

In no particular order:-
Are you printing from a memory stick?
If so, have you tried a different one?
Have you observed the stop?
Any error messages/mechanical binds in z axis?
Tried a basic test file known to be good on your machine previously?
Reinstall firmware ?
Will keep thinking cap on....
Rob

 

[simond]

adding to Rob‘s suggestions,

Resin is well shaken (or stirred, it’s not James Bond) and warm enough & deep enough?
Perhaps try a different bottle, though I’ve never had a problem.

I would definitely watch it through the first 20 layers, to see that the printer light actually comes on, as the screen suggests it should.

interested to hear your results.
Simon

 

[Spike]

In no particular order:-
Are you printing from a memory stick?
If so, have you tried a different one?
Have you observed the stop?
Any error messages/mechanical binds in z axis?
Tried a basic test file known to be good on your machine previously?
Reinstall firmware ?
Will keep thinking cap on....
Rob

Yes printing from a memory stick, no I have not tried from another memory stick yet.
I have just cleaned out the tank and can see the rest of the print in the FEP, I ran the vat cleaning after the failure. Picture attached.
No error messages of issues with the Z axis, have run the build plate up and down and observed no binding.
I tried to previously print GWR chairs which have previous printed but same issue.
I have not reinstalled the firmware

The printer has a built in heater and the resin has been well shaken before being poured into the tank.
Never had issues like this with Fast Navy grey before.


Regards
Peter

 

[Rob R]

I have just cleaned out the tank and can see the rest of the print in the FEP, I ran the vat cleaning after the failure.

Ahh, right. So it hasn't "stopped printing" but become detached, missed a couple of layers in the file/slicer etc and the carried on trying to print the rest which ends up being a blob on the fep.
Thinking cap still on.
I would still try a different usb stick just to eliminate it from the equation.
R

 

[mickoo]

Ahh, right. So it hasn't "stopped printing" but become detached, missed a couple of layers in the file/slicer etc and the carried on trying to print the rest which ends up being a blob on the fep.
Thinking cap still on.
I would still try a different usb stick just to eliminate it from the equation.
R

First step as Rob notes, bin the USB stick.

Second step, increase exposure on non base layers, you can't go wrong if they're too high. It depends on layer thickness but try 4 seconds at 50 microns.

 

[mickoo]

One other thing, never have more than three or five print files on a USB stick, ideally only the one you're printing.

No idea why but the jungle drums say it to be so. I had some odd goings on with layer shifting and artifacts and had ten files (two of them very big 24+ hr prints) on the stick, removed all but the one printing and it printed perfectly; go figure.