Crook Street Works - Gladiator LNWR D Tank

Allan

Active Member
Hi All,

Crook Street's working timetable calls for three trip services so, as I like 0-8-0s I thought I'd sneak in a D tank. As the name suggests, these were tank versions of the D class 0-8-0 designed under George Whale's superindendence and were one of a very few LMW engines to have the company's initials displayed on it's tank sides. It's going to be unlined black as there's a photo of the one I'm going to model, 2277, at Huddersfield in plain black. According to the same source it was allocated to Springs Branch in 1919 so that's the one for me!

As usual, one of the first tasks is to assemble the coupling rods as these set the dimensions for the chassis assembly and subsequent running quality, so it's worth taking care with these:

PXL_20250910_125506510.jpg



As it's a tank engine I can get away with all sorts of dodgy deeds on the chassis so suspension on this is simply brass wire soldered to the bearings in elongated axle holes:

PXL_20250911_131914988.jpg



The chassis went together without any hitches - note the generous joggle in the frames to the rear to accomodate the swing in the radial trailing axle. It's greater than the prototype but then, my curves are tighter than the prototype. Considerably. So I for one am very grateful:

PXL_20250911_143821583.jpg



The next action was to clean, polish and true up the wheels and axles. Again, worth spending some time on this as it will contribute (hopefully) good running when assembled.

PXL_20250912_145528489.jpg


...And lo... I had a push-along:

PXL_20250913_144639424.jpg



Once the trailing axle was installed I made sure it would go round my curves without derailing or shorting:

PXL_20250914_095812617.jpg



Fortunately it all worked well under DC power. I'd like to say it was all due to my diligence but those familiar with chassis building will know that it doesn't always work out that way despite due diligence...:

PXL_20250914_104834533.jpg



Flushed with success I barrelled on with the three dimensional intelligence test that is the brakes, what could possibly go wrong... Well, looks like I failed... I soldered wire into the holes that should be clear to take the hangers and the pull rods so had to unsolder them, then I did the same with the actuation bars. So lots of soldering and unsoldering later, I got the brakes installed:

PXL_20250915_105734620.jpg



Finally, today, I installed the sand pipes. These should both go outside the brake hangers but I was wary of clearances to the coupling rods on my tight curves so I placed the ones for the second pair of drivers behing the brake hanger. Well, I reckon the fitters might have done similar... maybe...

PXL_20250915_145940753.jpg



That's it for now.


Cheers
Allan
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

Crook Street's working timetable calls for three trip services so, as I like 0-8-0s I thought I'd sneak in a D tank. As the name suggests, these were tank versions of the D class 0-8-0 designed under George Whale's superindendence and were one of a very few LMW engines to have the company's initials displayed on it's tank sides. It's going to be unlined black as there's a photo of the one I'm going to model, 2277, at Huddersfield in plain black. According to the same source it was allocated to Springs Branch in 1919 so that's the one for me!

As usual, one of the first tasks is to assemble the coupling rods as these set the dimensions for the chassis assembly and subsequent running quality, so it's worth taking care with these:

View attachment 247724



As it's a tank engine I can get away with all sorts of dodgy deeds on the chassis so suspension on this is simply brass wire soldered to the bearings in elongated axle holes:

View attachment 247725



The chassis went together without any hitches - note the generous joggle in the frames to the rear to accomodate the swing in the radial trailing axle. It's greater than the prototype but then, my curves are tighter than the prototype. Considerably. So I for one am very grateful:

View attachment 247726



The next action was to clean, polish and true up the wheels and axles. Again, worth spending some time on this as it will contribute (hopefully) good running when assembled.

View attachment 247727


...And lo... I had a push-along:

View attachment 247728



Once the trailing axle was installed I made sure it would go round my curves without derailing or shorting:

View attachment 247729



Fortunately it all worked well under DC power. I'd like to say it was all due to my diligence but those familiar with chassis building will know that it doesn't always work out that way despite due diligence...:

View attachment 247730



Flushed with success I barrelled on with the three dimensional intelligence test that is the brakes, what could possibly go wrong... Well, looks like I failed... I soldered wire into the holes that should be clear to take the hangers and the pull rods so had to unsolder them, then I did the same with the actuation bars. So lots of soldering and unsoldering later, I got the brakes installed:

View attachment 247731



Finally, today, I installed the sand pipes. These should both go outside the brake hangers but I was wary of clearances to the coupling rods on my tight curves so I placed the ones for the second pair of drivers behing the brake hanger. Well, I reckon the fitters might have done similar... maybe...

View attachment 247732



That's it for now.


Cheers
Allan
Yep , looks just as good on here as the GOG site .
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Fascinating stuff, Allan, so thanks for sharing.

For an ignoramus like myself but one who enjoys the processes of engine building, may I ask: ‘what am I look in at in the first photo of your post?’.

I realise that the object of the exercise is to ensure that the holes in the coupling rods are lined up, but what are the objects inserted into them and are they being held in the jaws of a vice? Also, what is the purpose of the pieces of cardboard?

In relation to the elongated holes in the chassis, how did you make them? Perhaps with the use of a drill bit?

If you would be kind enough to post something re the above in your own time, Allan, I’d be most grateful.

Jon
 

John D

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

Crook Street's working timetable calls for three trip services so, as I like 0-8-0s I thought I'd sneak in a D tank. As the name suggests, these were tank versions of the D class 0-8-0 designed under George Whale's superindendence and were one of a very few LMW engines to have the company's initials displayed on it's tank sides. It's going to be unlined black as there's a photo of the one I'm going to model, 2277, at Huddersfield in plain black. According to the same source it was allocated to Springs Branch in 1919 so that's the one for me!

As usual, one of the first tasks is to assemble the coupling rods as these set the dimensions for the chassis assembly and subsequent running quality, so it's worth taking care with these:

View attachment 247724



As it's a tank engine I can get away with all sorts of dodgy deeds on the chassis so suspension on this is simply brass wire soldered to the bearings in elongated axle holes:

View attachment 247725



The chassis went together without any hitches - note the generous joggle in the frames to the rear to accomodate the swing in the radial trailing axle. It's greater than the prototype but then, my curves are tighter than the prototype. Considerably. So I for one am very grateful:

View attachment 247726



The next action was to clean, polish and true up the wheels and axles. Again, worth spending some time on this as it will contribute (hopefully) good running when assembled.

View attachment 247727


...And lo... I had a push-along:

View attachment 247728



Once the trailing axle was installed I made sure it would go round my curves without derailing or shorting:

View attachment 247729



Fortunately it all worked well under DC power. I'd like to say it was all due to my diligence but those familiar with chassis building will know that it doesn't always work out that way despite due diligence...:

View attachment 247730



Flushed with success I barrelled on with the three dimensional intelligence test that is the brakes, what could possibly go wrong... Well, looks like I failed... I soldered wire into the holes that should be clear to take the hangers and the pull rods so had to unsolder them, then I did the same with the actuation bars. So lots of soldering and unsoldering later, I got the brakes installed:

View attachment 247731



Finally, today, I installed the sand pipes. These should both go outside the brake hangers but I was wary of clearances to the coupling rods on my tight curves so I placed the ones for the second pair of drivers behing the brake hanger. Well, I reckon the fitters might have done similar... maybe...

View attachment 247732



That's it for now.


Cheers
Allan
For the record the 0-8-2 tanks were a Bowen Cooke design appearing in 1911 a year after Whale's death.

John
 

Bob Essex

Western Thunderer
Once the trailing axle was installed I made sure it would go round my curves without derailing or shorting:
Do I take it that this is an inside pony truck acting as a radial similar to how Jim McGeown arranges his GER 2-4-2T's? I've tried different ideas with locos with radial trucks but never attempted to replicate the actual radial design in any scale as yet feeling it's a step too far for my keep it simple ways.

Bob
 

simond

Western Thunderer
A radial axle presumably gives the same motion as a pony truck, but allows the design to avoid having the pivot eg in the middle of the grate (or gearbox).

IIRC, @adrian made an antiparallel linkage for one model? Easier to make with hand tools.
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Do I take it that this is an inside pony truck acting as a radial similar to how Jim McGeown arranges his GER 2-4-2T's? I've tried different ideas with locos with radial trucks but never attempted to replicate the actual radial design in any scale as yet feeling it's a step too far for my keep it simple ways.

Bob
Not sure about Jim's locos but Adrian Rowland used this often on his designs. For example the Coal tank also has one.

We can supply the etches for the truck if required.

David
 

Allan

Active Member
Fascinating stuff, Allan, so thanks for sharing.

For an ignoramus like myself but one who enjoys the processes of engine building, may I ask: ‘what am I look in at in the first photo of your post?’.

I realise that the object of the exercise is to ensure that the holes in the coupling rods are lined up, but what are the objects inserted into them and are they being held in the jaws of a vice? Also, what is the purpose of the pieces of cardboard?

In relation to the elongated holes in the chassis, how did you make them? Perhaps with the use of a drill bit?

If you would be kind enough to post something re the above in your own time, Allan, I’d be most grateful.

Jon
Hi Jon,

This is the set up I use:

PXL_20250917_104355428.jpg

I use the vice for holding work such as the coupling rods and in the jaws are some softjaws I made from aluminium angle. To the left is what you saw in the photo, they're what I call 'hot-jaws' and their purpose is to provide heat insulation and prevent the vice from acting as a heat sink when I'm soldering. As you can see, they're very hi-tech! made from my favourite cutting edge material - Cornflake packet... (other cereals are available...). I also use offcuts of wood to support and position work so I can solder it in a way that I want - that was also in the original photo.

The coupling rods were aligned using an appropriately sized drill in one of the holes and an awl from my miniture screwdriver set to locate the other hole. This is beneficial as it's taperred so will centre on a variety of hole sizes:

PXL_20250917_104428754.jpg


What I find is that soldering takes a few seconds but setting it up takes half an hour...!

Hope that's useful, if there's anything else you'd like me to expand upon, just shout.


Cheers
Allan
 

Allan

Active Member
Looks like there's been some good answers on the radial axle question. I can heartily recomend the Ahrons book, I managed to get a copy about a year ago, absolutely fascinating by a semi-professional railway student of the period. I won't be modelling the 'horse-leg' valve gear any time soon...

Cheers
Allan
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Hi Jon,

This is the set up I use:

View attachment 247825

I use the vice for holding work such as the coupling rods and in the jaws are some softjaws I made from aluminium angle. To the left is what you saw in the photo, they're what I call 'hot-jaws' and their purpose is to provide heat insulation and prevent the vice from acting as a heat sink when I'm soldering. As you can see, they're very hi-tech! made from my favourite cutting edge material - Cornflake packet... (other cereals are available...). I also use offcuts of wood to support and position work so I can solder it in a way that I want - that was also in the original photo.

The coupling rods were aligned using an appropriately sized drill in one of the holes and an awl from my miniture screwdriver set to locate the other hole. This is beneficial as it's taperred so will centre on a variety of hole sizes:

View attachment 247826


What I find is that soldering takes a few seconds but setting it up takes half an hour...!

Hope that's useful, if there's anything else you'd like me to expand upon, just shout.


Cheers
Allan
Most kind, Allan. Thank you for your time.

If I may impose once more, Allan, how did you execute the elongated holes in the chassis?

I hope you don’t mind, and of course, in your own time.

Jon
 

Bob Essex

Western Thunderer
Looks like there's been some good answers on the radial axle question. I can heartily recomend the Ahrons book, I managed to get a copy about a year ago, absolutely fascinating by a semi-professional railway student of the period. I won't be modelling the 'horse-leg' valve gear any time soon...

Cheers
Allan

Yes, thanks to all for the replies, I always like to understand how people tackle various aspects to see if there are better ways of doing things than I currently use. Years ago a I did a LNER F7 2-4-2T and used the supplied pony truck arrangement but added split-axle collection into them to help the current collection along.

Bob
 

Allan

Active Member
Most kind, Allan. Thank you for your time.

If I may impose once more, Allan, how did you execute the elongated holes in the chassis?

I hope you don’t mind, and of course, in your own time.

Jon
Oh yeah, I forgot about that bit, sorry about that. There's no secret with the axle hole elongation, I scribe vertical lines aligned with an engineer's square on the tangent of the holes. Then, using a half-round needle file, file the holes downward only for the front axle and both up and down for the intermediate axles (2 in this case as it's an 0-8-0). I leave the rear axle untouched as I solder the bearing in as it will take the gearbox. The reason for the different elongations is so that the outer two axles set the ride height. There's many alternative ways of achieving suspension on a model loco, I've probably tried 'em all over the years - they all have their merits, this one's probably the quickest and dirtiest!

Hope that's useful.

Cheers
Allan
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Oh yeah, I forgot about that bit, sorry about that. There's no secret with the axle hole elongation, I scribe vertical lines aligned with an engineer's square on the tangent of the holes. Then, using a half-round needle file, file the holes downward only for the front axle and both up and down for the intermediate axles (2 in this case as it's an 0-8-0). I leave the rear axle untouched as I solder the bearing in as it will take the gearbox. The reason for the different elongations is so that the outer two axles set the ride height. There's many alternative ways of achieving suspension on a model loco, I've probably tried 'em all over the years - they all have their merits, this one's probably the quickest and dirtiest!

Hope that's useful.

Cheers
Allan

Indeed it is, and fascinating.

Thanks once again for sharing and your time.

I’ve watched your videos many times, and apart from the admirable modelling and commentary that ‘takes you there’, I find them of great comfort.

Many thanks, Allan.

Jon
 

Allan

Active Member
Hi All,

It's been quite a productive week - well, I've done the basics for some big subassemblies so it feels like progress.

After getting a base chassis runner, I moved on to the footplate to get the basics done on that:

PXL_20250919_073237848.jpg




At this point before assembling the cab, I thought I'd better get the boiler sorted as it needs to fit in an etched groove in the front spectacle plate. I always find boilers a bit daunting at first so here's a blow by blow sequence of how I tame them. This one came pre-rolled and as ever they're never quite square. This isn't a criticism of the kit supplier, when I roll my own they're never quite square either!

So first is to hold it to shape with some scrap copper wire and tack solder the seam:

PXL_20250919_073303615.jpg




Next is to install the front circular former. I like to place them recessed into the boiler at the front. To ensure it's square I use a spacer, in this instance it's a old film canister lid:

PXL_20250919_073334801.jpg



Here we are, ready to pack it down with a bit of spare tube so it's square:

PXL_20250919_073354052.jpg



Next is to tack solder the former and solder up the seam. My soldering is always very chicken s**t as it's such a large heat sink but the next stage will sort that:

PXL_20250919_074619287.jpg



A waft over with the blow torch will enable the solder to flow nicely. One has to be careful not to get the entire joint liquid at the same time or bad things might happen - like it falls out...!

PXL_20250919_075226222.jpg



S-o-o-o... a lot of elbow grease later with course then fine files and cleaning up with emery paper and it should look like this:

PXL_20250919_083554694.jpg



So back to the footplate there were some cabinets that needed scratch building for the rear cab spectacle:

PXL_20250920_151938668.jpg



And so, by the end of the week, I had something starting to take shape:

PXL_20250920_152048467.jpg




Probably won't make much progress next week as the weather's good and we've got a few thing on but, so far so good...


Cheers
Allan
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

It's been quite a productive week - well, I've done the basics for some big subassemblies so it feels like progress.

After getting a base chassis runner, I moved on to the footplate to get the basics done on that:

View attachment 248083




At this point before assembling the cab, I thought I'd better get the boiler sorted as it needs to fit in an etched groove in the front spectacle plate. I always find boilers a bit daunting at first so here's a blow by blow sequence of how I tame them. This one came pre-rolled and as ever they're never quite square. This isn't a criticism of the kit supplier, when I roll my own they're never quite square either!

So first is to hold it to shape with some scrap copper wire and tack solder the seam:

View attachment 248084




Next is to install the front circular former. I like to place them recessed into the boiler at the front. To ensure it's square I use a spacer, in this instance it's a old film canister lid:

View attachment 248085



Here we are, ready to pack it down with a bit of spare tube so it's square:

View attachment 248086



Next is to tack solder the former and solder up the seam. My soldering is always very chicken s**t as it's such a large heat sink but the next stage will sort that:

View attachment 248087



A waft over with the blow torch will enable the solder to flow nicely. One has to be careful not to get the entire joint liquid at the same time or bad things might happen - like it falls out...!

View attachment 248089



S-o-o-o... a lot of elbow grease later with course then fine files and cleaning up with emery paper and it should look like this:

View attachment 248090



So back to the footplate there were some cabinets that needed scratch building for the rear cab spectacle:

View attachment 248091



And so, by the end of the week, I had something starting to take shape:

View attachment 248092




Probably won't make much progress next week as the weather's good and we've got a few thing on but, so far so good...


Cheers
Allan
Nice job Allan . Buy yourself a congratulatory new pair of gloves .
 
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