7mm Richard's 9f workbench

richard carr

Western Thunderer
It has been time to start detailing the front of the tenders. This has taken a fair bit longer than I expected but it's going well now.

One thing to do is to cut down the front tabs on the tender lockers as the front holes for those tabs gets covered over by the the locker doors detail.

These are the 4 tabs

20210104_161417_HDR.jpg

And here I have put an tender front over them to trim them down

20210104_161431.jpg

All nice and flush with the front

Here are 2 tender fronts with detailing all complete, can you spot the error ?

20210105_083544.jpg

Don't forget the reverse


20210105_083601_HDR.jpg

I found the best way to form the curve in the fall plate was to use some 16mm bar, holding the fall plate against it with a file and gently pressing it into the bar.

I'm back to work now so progress will slow down a bit.

Richard
 

Silverystreaks

Western Thunderer
I admire your determination Richard.... three MOK 9fs. I did purchase one complete with wheel sets but after laying out all of the parts on my work table I doubted I would have enough years left to build it. As I had other kits to build I made the decision to sell it on and sought a Lee Marsh Tyne Dock variant my first such purchase. I worked it out at my speed of building if I had paid myself by the hour to build the MOK kit I probably could have afforded a Lee Marsh one ....... So I do, really admire your determination.
Kind regards
Bob
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Thanks Bob

In my defence I have to say that MOK kits are the most enjoyable kits that I have built in the past. The fit of the parts and the engineering around them gives a relatively speedy build time, although I know this is a long term project, probably of 3 years at least.
The Lee Marsh ones are lovely and it really helps having one of those to look at and see how that has gone together.

Richard
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I'm interested to see your projection of 3 years Richard - much of the pleasure is in the actual building of the model, especially an MOK kit. I've been lucky to have built 7 MOK kits - all a joy, most of them as commissions. I haven't got records for my DJH 9F builds, I started them in October and they were painted by the following May, although I probably wasn't working on them full time. I looked at the Lee Marsh model on his stand, I couldn't fault it and I agree with Bob, it would probably come out cheaper than commissioning an MOK one.

Keep up the good work!
Best Regards
Tony
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Tony , yes I agree the MOK kits are an absolute joy to build, I have done the Ivatt 4MT (your build was very helpful) and the SR Q1. I didn't need much persuasion to get the 9fs under way.

Unfortunately, as expected, work has been getting in the way, but I have to earn a living for the next few years at least.

I have managed a bit a modelling, I have been doing the fire iron tunnel.

These are the bits that make it up.


20210108_171352.jpg

The base just slots into the tender side

20210108_171243.jpg

The side needs to be bent to shape, I started with a 16mm diameter rod and then used a 8mm rod to finish it off.

20210108_172051_HDR.jpg

This is just tabbed into place at the moment

this is the other side of the tender

20210108_171901.jpg


And now soldered in place.



20210108_175022.jpg

For the second one I thought I would try a different order for the parts

I started by adding the side supports to the base

20210108_180527.jpg

I then formed the side around the supports, but I needed the 8mm bar to get the fold a bit tighter.

20210108_180534.jpg

I then put all this into the tender side in one go.

20210108_180959_HDR.jpg

I have to say that this did actually work better and was a good bit faster.

Only 2 more to do.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I managed a good session yesterday afternoon working on the tender fronts.

This is the first little error I have found in the kit

20210109_123920_HDR.jpg

There are 2 slot sized bumps on the lower half of the tender face that should be, they are half etched out on the reverse and they don't allow the overlay that fits into the half etched area to seat to properly, so it was out with the dremel with slitting disc to grind them off.

Here's the reverse showing the 2 half etched slots. This was only on the BR 1F tender kit, the 1Cs don't have this.

20210109_123930_HDR.jpg

Then I had a piece of luck, as I had dropped a fall plate hinge on the floor last weekend and I could not find it, I must have spent an hour or more searching over the past week as there are not any spares in the kit.

20210109_124833.jpg

But having dropped another part on the floor, which has gone awol I found it right where I had been looking before.
Fortunately the other part (34) is one where there are 2 spares on each etch so I haven't wasted any time looking for it.

So I now have 4 largely complete tender fronts, although on the first one I didn't read the instructions fully and the coal shute is wrong, so that has had to be done again.


20210109_174240.jpg
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I managed to do a bit more yesterday.

First I finished off the 4 tender fronts

20210110_193212_HDR.jpg

These are all up to the same stage now, they just need a final clean up.

I then started on the inner chassis, this uses 3 point compensation to aid running (and pick up if using tender pickups). The front 2 bearings are fixed and the remaining 4 can wobble, wiggle, and move up and down around a centre pivot point. Personally it does seem a bit over complicated engineering, but it does work as this is the same on the both the Ivatt 4MT and the SR Q1.

Here are the frames and spacers

20210110_171345.jpg

Everything tabs together so another 5 minutes and this is what you have.

20210110_171846.jpg

I also got started on the outer frames
20210110_172303.jpg

I'm not sure if it is better to add the overlays before adding the drag box and rear buffer beam or to build it first then add the overlays, so I'm going to try both ways.

20210110_175714.jpg

Drag box added first.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

what a project this is, I’ve just had a look back through the thread as I’ve only just found it. I treated myself at Christmas to an MOK 9F with the big North Eastern area tender so will watch this closely. Especially the nuisances with S7. Top work so far :thumbs:

Cheers

Mick
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I find it easier to add the laminates first, easier to hold in the vice and clean the edges up. The downside is that you loose the ability to use the tabs as twist affairs when adding the drag box etc.

The compensation beam affair is complex, it works well if everything is built perfectly, anything slightly out and it can be a world of pain, I removed the little fold up brackets each side of horn guides that hold the beam in place. They were substituted by a simple inverted hoop of 1.0 mm wire soldered to the flat plates you screw into the stays, the plates that slot into the end of the beams and limit vertical travel.

I'll see if I can take a better photo on the 4MT to show them, it just made getting the beams and rocking box in and out a bit easier.

The same system is used on the N15 tender bogies, just more compact....
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Richard,
are you managing to program the YouChoos chips through the Tam Valley electronics? I cannot get though to the chip and get all sort of error messages.
Simon
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Simon

No I have been taking the chip out and programming it on the Zimo decoder tester. I can give it a try if you would like me too.

I don't usually need to do much to Zimo decoders, they tend to work well out of the box and the steam ones don't need any of the functions.

Richard
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Richard,
thanks, so it's not just me. I'm much the same with tinkering with Zimo chips but in this case the chip is a spare who's identity I cannot remember or download. I'm beginning to think the R/C approach is a complete goat with nothing working together.

Simon
 

simond

Western Thunderer
My forays into R/C with DCC using the Tam Valley kit were not successful, but R/C with DCC could be so good... I even wrote to Peter Zeigler at Zimo asking if he might like to make a complete system.

He replied that he'd love to but it was not a current plan or priority. :(

atb
Simon D
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Thinking it through there is no way you can use the Youchoos software to programme a decoder using radio as the Youchoos software isn't using radio.

I use NCE to control the layout and you can programme on the main using that, but I wouldn't do that for anything other than something basic.

Simon T if your decoder is spare doesn't that mean it isn't installed in anything ?

I would recommend getting a decoder tester (the Zimo or the ESU one) I find them really useful for setting up a decoder before I install it.

Simon D I would be interested to know how it was unsuccessful with the Tam Valley kit.

Thanks

Richard
 

chigley

Western Thunderer
i will be following your build with interest Richard, treated myself to birthday 9f with a br1g tender. ive looked in the box and closed it quickly, ken
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
the Youchoos software isn't using radio
Oh yes it is! I'm using a Digikeijs DR500. The PC talks to it on WiFi,as does the WLANmaus. I know that bit works as I can control the DR500. I can control a loco fitted with a chip whose identity I know; 4219 runs very nicely on RC. The troublesome chip came out of a loco at some point in the last two years and I cannot remember the address. Proof that programing commands don't get through is that a CV8 reset did nothing and the receiver shows no signal traffic when trying to program.

I'll try YooChoos as I know they have experience of set ups like mine.

Simon
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Simon D I would be interested to know how it was unsuccessful with the Tam Valley kit.

hi Richard,

I’ll review it & reply in more detail but if you want to have a look on my “Second Hand Duchess” thread on RMWeb, the bones of it are there. I’d post a link but their cookie management is currently up the creek, at least for iPads.

I was using a Zimo MX645 decoder, and a Canon motor driving through one of Bill Connell’s 2-stage helical gearboxes. The loco performed well using track supply.

The gear I have is a DRS1 throttle, and a LINX RF Module RXM 869 ES (Lot 10000). I tried a couple of ways to power it, using 18650 LiIon cells. I used a voltage converter to step up from 1s and 2s.

My present conclusion is that the receiver was not handling sufficient current, but that it might be possible to supply the decoder directly (via the + & - rails as you would with a keep-alive cap) - my fear is that there would somehow be a short circuit via the receiver, I need to learn a lot more about decoders (maybe just risk the sacrifice of a cheap one). I should temper this in saying that it might have been the buck converter, or even the cells, that was/were not up to the job, though I’m reasonably confident that the weak link was the receiver.

Atb
Simon
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave, I’d have done it from the office this morning.

There appears to be a glitch which means some of us get asked to confirm our rejection of cookies (individually, not all together!) every time the tab is selected. This gets a bit wearing, hopefully sorted soon.

(and I just checked using the link, and it’s still doing it :( )

cheers
Simon
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Simon D

I have now had a chance to read your RMWeb thread, I now understand your frustration.

I have about 5 locos equipped with the Tam Valley receiver, all work fine, although they haven't had to do as much work as your Duchess. The big difference between our setups though is that I use NiMh AAA cells or if I can fit them AA cells. I have a class 37, 40 and 46 and an Ivatt 4MT and SR Q1. All work really well, they do all have coreless motors ,the 6 watt Maxon from ABC so the maximum current draw would be half an amp. They are all sound equipped with Zimo MX645 decoders.
Some of them have a really cheap step up voltage regulator but they all have at least 6 AAA cells giving a base voltage of about 7.8 volts fully charged.
My class 31 that I'm working on now will be the first departure from this set up as it uses twin motors of the 1833 replacement type. As the bogies are built I might just get one wired up to try it.

Richard
 
Top