Just afew more shots between the standard hornby horse box and the modified one. I must admit the shawplan glazing does lift the model and is well worth doing now need to weather. I have learnt some lessons on this one so hopefully the next one will be easier.
P.S sorry about the dust on the model only just noticed it
Today I have been spraying some GWR loco coal wagons I made earlier. Will post pics when they are lettered. Now on the work bench is the kit below. Should be fun.
Have been thinking about the instructions stating to build the body first before starting the chassis making sure you have at least a 0.012" step in the floor so the chassis fits in the rebate. What I have decided to do is get the chassis as far as the solebars and then build the body around it so I will have the correct distance. Progess so far
Pushed the rivets out on both solebars but only folded one up today. The only way to describe making the J hangers is metal origami. I will say the instructions so far are excellent.
An absolute delight building this underframe, everything locates first time, the half etch lines are spot on and fold with the minimum of effort and the half dimples for the rivets push out nice and crisp. This is a kit though where you have to read the instructions carefully as it is quite intense on the procedure at each stage. Progress photo's below.
Futher progress today,the W irons were made. One slight issue with the pinpoint bearings not a fault of the kit I hasten to add. When the wheels were fitted the axles were very loose in the bearings. So unsoldered the bearings and packed out with 9BA washer each side. Perfect!!! In the artical in MRJ 76 the builder found a large gap between the J hanger and spring. I found if you level the leaf springs there is no large gap (a gap is required one end due to rocking W iron). Glued on spring/axlebox casting and tried it on a length of track. Removed W irons and now starting on the footboard posts.
Made a boo boo on the brake linkage. I fitted a single yoke instead of a linked yoke so removed the single and fitted the linked one (see photo below). Fitted all linkage and vacuum cylinder and soldered all in place. Only a few more bits to do.
A few more stages further today. Brake levers folded up and fitted, safety loops formed on jig and soldered in place,vacuum pipe formed and soldered in place and gas reservoir tank halves glued together and fettled as there was a 0.75mm step on each end (a dental large round burr used to get rid of step).
Hi Dave
Although the W irons are fixed the same way with the 1/32 brass pins one of the W irons have tabs that drop down when you fold it up turning it into a fixed W iron. I have attached a photo of the W irons on another one I have to build. Hope it helps.
Thanks for the comment on the brake gear I do wonder how much will be seen but at least I know it's there.
Pete
Well the chassis is now finished and is dishwasher safe at 45 degree wash. The results are in the following pictures. No sign of any residue from the soldering.
Well the chassis is now in primer so I have turned my attention back to the body namely the door handles. A friend of mine pointed out the variations on the handles fitted so far to the body. I pointed out to him that it is a 4mm model but the worm of doubt had been cast. So started to think about small jig designs to make the handles and position and drill the holes in the body. So the first jig is to make a consistant U shape for the handles and the pictures below is what I made to acheive this. If WT members are interested in the rest please say.