Crymlyn A Shop Techniques. Agenoria 10/7 Avonside 2195 CWM MAWR

davey4270

Western Thunderer
40. Rear Lamp Irons.

Yet another fiddling task trying to get all the fittings straight and level.


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I’m not impressed with the fold up etches for the GWR style cranked lamp irons which are designed to fit in the side of the lamp as even with solder fillets in the folds they are very fragile. They either collapse when you solder them onto the bodywork or break after painting. As I’d used up all my spares from previous Agenoria kits I purchased a few sets from Laurie Griffin. I have a rear 3/4 L/H view of a sister loco so was able to estimate their position and drill holes for the spigots. Soldering the spigot through the bunker gives a positive location and extra strength to the fitting. I tinned the irons and with plenty of flux soldered them from the inside of the bunker. As this locomotive had a narrow footplate, the crank of the L/H lamp iron is hard up against the very edge of the bunker.



IMG_2478.jpg I didn’t have 3 cast fire iron rack hooks so had to go with the fold up etches supplied with the kit. These are a straight strip with a half etched fold slightly off centre. I formed the curve around a 2.0mm drill bit using the longer section and then bent the end out slightly hopefully giving them the correct shape. The remaining straight piece was then curved slightly to follow the shape of the bunker this is not too difficult but getting 3 the same is another matter! A spot of flux in the fold and a dab of solder strengthen them significantly. I tinned the back of the hooks, removed the odd rivet for them to sit flush and with more flux where they were to go, sweated them into position with a hot iron. Be quick here as you don’t want to undo any of the bunker seams. On the sister locomotive I could just make out that the top lamp iron which was situated on top of the bunker was of the normal “L” shape. I filed off one side of the spigot which allowed the remaining half to fit inside the bunker while the base of the iron sat on top. It was tricky holding it in position but once again soldered from the inside.
The final addition today was the tramway bell support which was folded up from the etch, corners strengthened with solder and then soldered in position on the footplate.
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The primed frames are visible in this view and it looks like the upper left rear corner of the cab needs some attention.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
41. Dai the Paint’s Overtime.

Saturday morning at Crymlyn A Shop and Dai the Paint’s working some overtime. He’s given the frames a coat of Halfords matt black and is just touching up a few hidden corners. He’s not concerned about inside the frames as they will be painted red later.
Halfords matt black has a slight sheen so don’t be tempted to use their satin as it will be far too glossy. This product is a cellulose paint and if painted over enamel will attack the enamel causing it to wrinkle giving a poor finish. I believe that cellulose thinners can be used to strip enamel paint! The Upol 8 acid etch primer I used is impervious to the cellulose paint so perhaps it is cellulose based.
I remembered to clean the primer off the copper clad pickup pads this time and apply some masking tape. Although the Paint’s touch dry in 20 minutes, I’ll give it 24 hours to harden before doing any more work on the frames. The Blutac is now Blacktac and brown hue on top of the vacuum pump and R/H cylinder is a reflection. Well done Dai, I'm sure ewe will put the overtime payment to good ewese.


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davey4270

Western Thunderer
42. A Start on the Plumbing.

I double checked that the freshly painted frames were a comfortable fit and proceeded to remove the masking tape.


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With the masking tape removed the rear axle bearing faces, horn block faces and slide bar surfaces were cleaned and given a final polish. The split seam in the cab rear was given a smear of flux and repaired with a wipe of a hot soldering iron. A wonky handrail on the bunker rear was also adjusted. It had slipped out a fraction and was pushed back in with the soldering iron using a coffee stirrer as a spacer.


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The order for a new tank filler lid was delivered by the Ragstone Foundry Company and after being checked through the Crymlyn A Shop stores by Dai Larfin, a suitable hole was drilled to take a 4mm handrail knob and it was soldered to the tank filler lid with a small “L” shaped piece of wire to represent the handle. The filler lid was then Araldited in position and at the same time I added the smoke box door dart. I had a spare cast brass dart which I used to replaced the white metal item supplied with the kit. A useful tip when using Araldite is to wait about 10 minutes until it starts to cure and is of a consistency of toffee then cut around the base of the fitting. The excess Araldite can then be peeled off much easier than the following day when it’s solid. I soldered the 2 wire handrails between the handrail knobs on the footplate and made a start on the vacuum and steam heat pipes. Firstly I opened up the slot for the coupling hook to suit the Dapol screw link item I intended to fit. This needs not so much a slit but almost a square so I needed to fill the top and bottom of the hole with solder. I had some cast brass vacuum and steam pipes that are an exact match for the white metal items supplied so soldered these to the front buffer plank.


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I intend to paint inside the frames red so I masked some of the cross members to make painting easier. Apparently pink makes a good undercoat for red which is a translucent colour. I didn’t have any pink so used a flesh colour instead. I’m not showing the flesh paintwork as it looks a bit silly.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
43. Plumbing at the Rear.

I started off the same as yesterday but this time at the back.


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Once again I started by opening up the slot for the Dapol screw coupling which is more of a square than a slot. I forgot to pack the top and bottom of the slot which will be a job for the next time I plug in my soldering iron. With an almost identical method to yesterday the rear vacuum and steam heat pipes were fitted. I made up the vacuum pipe run from some copper wire trying to copy the layout of the prototype. At the rear it runs below and outside the buffer plank turning in just before the valance. It then turns out again and almost immediately turns up just outside the valance. It turns to the right just below the footplate where it runs full length to the front where it repeats the process but runs further inside the buffer plank before turning out and back across below and slightly outside the buffer plank to the vacuum stanchion. On some pictures the front vacuum fitting is actually parallel to the buffer plank and not out at right angles.


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The vacuum pipe run at the front. On the prototype it appears to be set up to clear the frames and possibly to give space to access the steam chest. It also conveniently gives clearance to remove the chassis, just!
On the left hand valance there is a steam pipe run and as I can’t see the connections I’ll just fold them underneath at the front and back. They would be in the way to remove the chassis anyway.


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The frames have had a first coat of red. I’ll check if it needs a second coat tomorrow in daylight.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
44. Painting the Frames and the Con Rods.

The insides of the frames needed a second coat of red as it was a bit streaky over the undercoat. I gave it an hour to partially dry before removing the masking tape. Some of the undercoat shows at the edges and I’ll have to touch those up. Masking off made the job 100% easier and the small amount of touching up was well worth the effort. The frames on the prototype would have had a support for the valve activation motion somewhere between the slide bar supports and this would also have been painted red. I just painted the insides of the frames and not the bottom and cross bracing of the spacers. The red paint on the inside of the frames is quite visible between the footplate underneath the tank.
I made a small adjustment to the run of the front vacuum pipe below the buffer plank to clear the chassis. I could remove the frames by tilting them but when the motor is fitted this will not be possible hence the adjustment to allow the frames to fit in straight.
I laminated the etches for the con rods together and made up some new brass overlays to represent the bearings. I had used the 6 etches supplied on the coupling rods where, if I’d read the instructions, I should have only fitted them to the leading and trailing bearings as the centre one is hidden behind the con rods on the centre wheels. I realised this after reaming out the coupling rods but there was so little of the brass overlays left on the centre bush that the soldering iron would have vaporised them. I ream out the bearing holes in the rods before cleaning up the solder as the excess around the bearings gives them extra strength helping to prevent delamination. Once they have split the raised edge around the hole will prevent the laminations closing properly. You will have to unsolder, file the ridge flush and reassemble before starting to ream the holes again. The trick here is to take your time! The picture gives an idea of the effect of the red painted frames and the pair of con rods that still need cleaning up.

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davey4270

Western Thunderer
45. Fitting the wheels.

I touched up the paintwork on the frames and started fitting the sprung horn blocks.


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Humbrol matt black is a much flatter colour than the sprayed on Halfords cellulose matt black so I mixed a small amount of Humbrol matt black with about 10% of Humbrol satin black and touched in where some of the flesh colour undercoat had crept under the masking tape. While this was drying I painted the Slater’s wheels matt black. The brass balance weights need painting and will glare against the dull black finish of the Slater’s plastic spokes. Now painting 6 of these is a strain on the eyes so an hour or so relaxing after that is mandatory! I made a start on assembling the running gear and fitted the leading axle boxes with their springs. This is another job where an extra pair of hands is useful so Percy Veerance, one of the Crymlyn A Shop Boyos, gave me a hand. The picture shows how the springs push the axle boxes out of the horn blocks. When they are resting on their stops the springs will be fully compressed so if the model runs over some uneven track the spring will impart weight on the wheel maintaining traction and electrical continuity.


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With Percy Veerance and a little jiggery pokery I managed to fit the leading wheel set and tighten the axle screws. I then managed to fit the axle keeps and their retaining wires while keeping the springs compressed, probably more by luck than judgement, at the first attempt. The brake operating rods in the proximity not helping. The axle keep retaining wires have a habit of falling out no matter how tight you squeeze them so I poke a spot of thread lock into the joint before tightening the wires. This has worked well on my previous models as not one has worked loose.
1f91e

Leave to set for an hour or so. If it’s necessary to dismantle at some point a scalpel blade should separate them.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
46. Wheel sets & Buffers.

Today’s work started with reassembling the chassis.


IMG_2511.jpg Following on from yesterday I reassembled the centre wheel set encountering the same jiggery pokery to get the components to fit.



IMG_2510.jpg While the thread lock was setting on the centre axle box keeps I shaped some more copper wire to represent the steam heat pipe. This follows closely to the style of the vacuum pipe in running, at least in the front, underneath and outside the buffer plank diving in behind the buffer plank after passing the frames and passing back through as a flexible steam heat pipe. At the rear it curved down and slightly forwards well before the rear buffer plank passing under the frames to connect with the steam heat pipe on the far side of the coupling. Obviously on the model these pipes have to be cut clear of the chassis if you wish to remove it. In the picture the copper wire which is cut short and just hanging there stands out somewhat but when painted black will be almost invisible from a normal viewing angle in the general gloom underneath the model.


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The rear wheel set fitted with the motor and gear box. I filed a small flat on the axle just off centre to the right of the axle for the gear wheel’s grub screw to locate. I marked the corner of the axle’s wheel locating square in line with the “flat” with a dot of white paint before fitting the wheel with the crank pin aligned to the paint mark. Once the wheel retaining Allen screw is tightened you won’t be able to see the mark but I know the flat is inline with the R/H crank pin when I wish to tighten the gear’s grub screw.
As you can see there was no point in painting the area inside the frames where the motor fits as it will be completely invisible. Apparently the insides were painted red as when the frames were steam cleaned before major overhauls any cracks would retain dirt and be easy to see.
The motor was assembled with spacers between the gear wheel and the inside of the motor mount bearings to keep the gear wheel and worm in perfect alignment as mentioned previously and 2 more between the wheels and frame bearings to reduce end float of the axle.



2195 at Swindon 2Mar52.jpg One of the prototype pictures which I used to replicate the pipe runs.


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The model displaying the pipe runs.


Rear KIDWELLY.jpg
A rear 3/4 view of sister locomotive 2194 KIDWELLY showing the narrow footplate and cab. I don’t have a rear view of 2195 so have used this picture to set up the bunker rear fittings. I doubt it was displaying express headlamps but I believe station pilots displayed a head and tail lamp at either end.


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The rear 3/4 view of the model showing more of the pipework. Cast white metal buffer bases were Araldited on at both ends. I had intended to solder on the shunter’s step that fits between the R/H cylinder and the buffer plank but I forgot. Hopefully a quick dab with the soldering iron won’t do any damage otherwise it’ll be another Araldite job.
 
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davey4270

Western Thunderer
47. The Shunter’s Step.

This item was fitted to the locomotive for working the Weymouth Quay and removed when it moved away.


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I had previously assembled the shunter’s step and was unable to fit it in its correct position due to the vacuum pipe run as I had made it. A second attempt at the pipe run closely copying the prototype still prevented the step from fitting correctly. I had previously scraped out the small fillets of solder behind the buffer plank and the side valance where it would fit and filed a cut out in the step’s base where it fitted underneath the footplate to clear the remains of a spigot from one of the lamp irons. Sod’s Law dictated that a third attempt at modifying the copper wire vacuum pipe would cause it to break proved accurate so I soldered a newly shaped piece to the original pipe just under the edge of the buffer plank. After adding another small handle where I’d originally embossed a couple of rivets the step was finally soldered in place.


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2195 shunting at Weymouth Quay with the shunter’s step visible beneath the cylinder. The vacuum pipe bending out underneath the L/H buffer, as you look at it, then running parallel to the buffer plank to the vacuum pipe standard proved impossible to replicate with the step in its correct position. The pipe now bends forward underneath the buffer plank then straight across without the “S” bend underneath the buffer. There is a hole in the footplate just behind the locomotive's R/H buffer for the shunter’s handrail to locate and I will solder it only to the smoke box so it will fit into the footplate after assembly.


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I assembled the coupling rods, you did remember to identify each one’s position didn’t you, over a shallow cardboard tray. These nuts are extremely small, 14BA I believe, and are a delicacy desired by all carpet monsters so beware! Do this as close as possible to the tray to give yourself the best chance of finding them. I fit a small square from a coffee stirrer between each axle box and the horn keeps to compress the spring so the axle box is against its stop and in its running position. I connected the wires from the motor to my controller for its first run...........



IMG_2523.jpg Not very good, it gave half a turn and stalled. The 3’o clock stall position would normally indicate tight rods on that side but before stripping the mechanism down I fortunately noticed that the excess length of the crank pin had stopped against the cab step. Phew!
There’s not a lot of construction work left on the model but plenty of work for Dai the Paint and assembling the components. There will be plenty of spare time between coats of paint etc and I normally make a start on another kit during these periods. I’ll make posts on the next model and I’m thinking about how to separate the 2 builds. I could change the title on to "Crymlyn A Shop Techniques 2195" and start another blog with the “class of loco/Post xx”. What are your thoughts gentlemen?
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Rename this thread to identify the subject otherwise it may be rather difficult to find - especially as this is only the second post that has mentioned 2195! Start a new thread for a new project with a title that aids searching - i.e. state the kit manufacturer and loco/wagon type. Please!
Dave
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
Rename this thread to identify the subject otherwise it may be rather difficult to find - especially as this is only the second post that has mentioned 2195! Start a new thread for a new project with a title that aids searching - i.e. state the kit manufacturer and loco/wagon type. Please!
Dave
Just done it. Initially I wanted people to guess the prototype so I didn't mention it. I'm afraid you'll have to guess the next one. Perhaps I could have a little challenge in future and only label it when someone correctly guesses the prototype. I'm thinking of the next title as starting something like "Crymlyn A Shop Techniques Model xxxx" initially, what do you think?
 
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davey4270

Western Thunderer
48. The Leading Crankpin.

This can often be a problem with outside cylindered locomotives with over scale components giving minimum clearance.

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Having already shortened the crank pin bushes initially I would fill the bush with solder, tap it 12BA , invert it and use it as the retaining nut. Unfortunately, not having a lathe, getting the thread at 90’ was a bit hit and miss with the bush/nut often ending up with a slight throw causing binding problems with the rods. After having several failed attempts with 359 HILDA I tried using thread lock which 3 models later is still proving successful.
Obviously clean off all traces of oil first. Place the Slater’s washer over the thread against the wheel boss, this is usually very slightly dished and I place the concave side against the wheel although it probably doesn’t matter. Carefully fit the rod and with a cocktail stick place a small dot of thread lock on the protruding thread. Place another dot of the thread lock inside the non flanged end of the crank pin bush and carefully press it fully home. Leave about 1 hour to fully harden. File the excess crank pin thread flush with the front of the bush, apply a small amount of oil and job done.
The picture shows, left to right, the wheel, the protruding boss, the crank pin washer (just visible) and the reversed crank pin bush. The protruding thread, which has to be filled flush, shows the amount of clearance gained which equals the depth of a nut. This saves all the bother of trying to file the nut almost wafer thin to clear the cross head.
There was the slightest tightness in the rods connecting the L/H centre and trailing wheels. The rod was removed at the same time as reversing the leading crank pin bush and given a few more turns with a suitable reamer. I like to see, or rather feel, the slightest perceptible movement when the wheels are at 3 & 9’ clock.


2195 first chassis test run. - YouTube

A short video of the working chassis. As yet, no running in has been done. These are its first runs.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
49. More Handrails.

There’s little left to add to the model so over the next few days I’ll occasionally check over the model in case I’ve missed anything.


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I added the tank handrails as I like to leave these as late as possible as they usually get bent with handling. They were quite long, stretching almost to the row of rivets at either end of the tank. I put a smear of flux under each front handrail knob, pull the wire out and smear with flux then push it back in, then touched it with a hot soldering iron carrying a dot of solder. You only need to solder one knob each side. Another handrail emerging from the footplate above the shunter’s step was soldered to the smoke box just above the steam Lance cock. This just slips into the hole on the footplate to enable the boiler/tank assembly to be removed for painting. I managed to break my first drill bit in months here as the hole was half over the brass etched shunter’s step and it deflected the drill bit as it came through the footplate.


2195 CWM MAWR Chassis. - YouTube

Another short video of the chassis running.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
50. Odds and Sods.

What’s left to complete the build?


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ODDS.
There was definitely something missing from the front of the locomotive and after scratching my head for a while the penny dropped, I had forgotten to add the smoke box handrail. Doh! It was quite a fiddle to get it to follow the curve of the smoke box and typically my iPhone has managed to distort the picture. You can’t form the curve at the end of your piece of wire as the end will always be straigher. The trick is to form it about an inch in from the end to get an even curve then cut off the straight end. The handrail stops just short of the top smoke box door hinge and I soldered it to both handrail knobs on this occasion. The condition I chose to represent the model doesn’t have the handrails extended along the side of the smoke box. The model is up on jacks, so to speak, and running slowly with the motor wires connected to my old H&M Flyer. I like using a controller without any fancy electronics as if there’s a problem I don’t want any electrickery keeping it going and preventing me from identifying problems. Also visible is the handrail for the shunter’s front step.


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SODS.
There are several ways to make a removable cab roof and I’ve stuck with the springy wire method. 4 wires are soldered towards each corner of the roof and bent outwards to fit in each corner, the spring tension holding it in place. The wires can be tweaked to centralise the roof. I’d previously had problems with the wires coming loose but have more recently made an “L” shape to the tail similar to what I use on some boiler fittings and have since had no problems. The picture shows the underneath of the cab roof with the wire springs pointing towards the camera. The bent tails are clearly seen. I bent the first spring to shape and copied it with 3 others.
I cleaned up the reverser rod, put a small amount of solder in the 90’ fold to strengthen it and drilled a hole through the etched bearing soldering a short piece of wire in the hole to look a bit more realistic. This will be painted red and fitted after reassembling the completed model with a spot of superglue underneath the footplate.


Cwm Mawr - YouTube

Another short video of the completed, hopefully, model running quietly up on jacks.
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
Nice. Less keen on the Marillion background music though!
Dave
Many people help with the build including Bruce Dickensen/Iron Maiden, Metallica, Genesis with Peter Gabriel,Yes but at the moment my favourite is Steve Hogarth, just love his voice.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I had the dubious pleasure of assisting Marillion’s road crew at a gig in Bedford College of Higher Education, in, I’d guess 1982. The gig was good, not so sure about the co-workers...
 
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