Wantage Tramway No.5

[P A D]

Hi Peter

Working off a Kindle is a bit fiddly sometimes and I tend to just prod the screen and hope for the best! I shall certainly try loading multiple photos in one go in future.

I think my 100 watter iron is probably a bit to powerful at times as the solder can literally boil away! I like the look of the soldering stations, especially as I reckon 80 watts would be perfect for my needs. Just need a lottery win to fund it.

Mike

Hi Mike,
I didn't know you could use a Kindle like that. As to the iron, of course you have to work within your budget and although what you have is not ideal, you are doing a very good job with it.

Nice idea screwing the chimney on before soldering, as with it being so tall it only needs go be slightly out of kilter to look awful. Mind you, it's so tall if it needs to come off, you'll have to get Fred Dibnah out to do it.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[John57sharp]

She looks proud as punch with that chimney on.splendid!

John

 

[freelance7]

Mike,

Coming on nicely.

Paul

 

[spikey faz]

A bit more bodywork completed. Not all soldered together yet, so alignments are all a bit out. Mind you, with my dodgy skills it's likely to still be a bit out even once it's all soldered up!






Mike

 

[spikey faz]

Thoughts are also turning to whether I should make the firebox/boiler/smokebox a single unit that can be screwed into place. I'm thinking this would make it easier to paint,although no decisions have as yet been made on paint scheme.

Mike

 

[Brian T]

If you think you`ve got dodgy soldering skill`s Mike, i`m going to hang up my soldering iron!

Beautiful workmanship...

Brian.

 

[spikey faz]

If you think you`ve got dodgy soldering skill`s Mike, i`m going to hang up my soldering iron!

Beautiful workmanship...

Brian.

I can assure you my soldering is not that good! I do however try to do a lot of cleaning up afterwards. Despite mine and others misgivings I continue to use my 100w soldering iron. It's big, it's a bit clumsy at times (although it's surprising how adept I've become in its use) but it does get the solder flowing nicely.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

Wheels arrived back from Col. He's sprinkled his magic dust on them and got them turned to Scale7 standards. Cheers col!

A bit more progress with chimney and rear cab-sheet now soldered in place.




Mike

 

[spikey faz]

Those with sharp eyes may have spotted that I've got the wrong sized crankpin bush on the loco. Slaters supply a smaller one with their diddly sized wheels but I needed some more to allow the connecting rods to be fitted. I ordered the wrong ones. Doh! Anyway, I rang Slaters yesterday to order the correct ones and they arrived in today's post. Outstanding service from both Slaters and the postie. A big cheers to you.

Mike

 

[Allen M]

Hi Mike & all
For small wheels on 7mm locos I use Markits De-lux crank pins as used on their 00 wheels.
These have a 10BA thread to go into the wheel. A shoulder then a 14BA (I think) thread for a tapped bush to carry the rods.


As used on this loco.
Note to self. I should have cut of the excess on the rear driver but keep forgetting.
Market also do a basic crank pin which screws into the wheel but has a soldered on crank bush but for the small difference in cost, and no melting Slaters wheels, I go for the De-lux.
Regards
Allen Morgan

 

[spikey faz]

Hi Allen

I never thought to look at the Markits crankpins. They do look pretty good. I particularly like the way they've engineered their return cranks which seems to use a threaded system rather than soldered.

I like your loco. It reminds me of one they used on The Selsey Tramway.

Mike

 

[Allen M]

Hi Mike.
It is SELSEY from the Hundred of Manhood & Selsey Tramway.
Built in early condition with the long side tanks from an Agenoria kit, now part of Ragstone Models range.
It assumed to be on lone to my line.
Regards
Allen

 

[spikey faz]

The MRJ articles advocate the use of 10BA bolts on the front wheels in place of the supplied 12BA bolts. This allows the crankpin bush to be tapped 10BA and gains some much required clearance between the moving parts. Typically I didn't have 10BA bolts so had to order some. They arrived today and I've whizzed the various bits together. Amazingly there's no binding! That's a first for me, so well pleased.



Mike

 

[spikey faz]

 

[Graham Bustin]

View attachment 122903

Hi,
Have you thought about the final colour that you are going to paint her when finished?
Also are you going to reproduce the tops of the Running Boards as per the Prototype?
There is a very interesting article, with photos, in the Spring copy of the Great Western Echo which may prove useful.
Graham.

 

[spikey faz]

Hi Graham

I think I'll be leaving the footplate tops as they are (smooth). I am aware that this will not be true to the prototype, but I'm afraid I'd probably mess the appearance up if I attempt a textured finish.

I'm still not 100% sure about colour. I was thinking all over black but I've already got a black loco, so will probably go for green. I'm thinking of Land Rover bronze green. I usually use Halfords rattle cans when it comes to painting as I find I get a reasonable finish with these. I do own an Iwata airbrush but I've never really got on with it. Nothing wrong with it but I just find all the setting up and cleaning afterwards is a bit of a chore. I also struggle with getting the paint/ thinners mix right. Oh, and my compressor sounds like a machine gun on steroids!

I'll see if I can check out the Echo article.

cheers

Mike

 

[Overseer]

Hi Graham


I'm still not 100% sure about colour. I was thinking all over black but I've already got a black loco, so will probably go for green. I'm thinking of Land Rover bronze green. I usually use Halfords rattle cans when it comes to painting as I find I get a reasonable finish with these. I do own an Iwata airbrush but I've never really got on with it. Nothing wrong with it but I just find all the setting up and cleaning afterwards is a bit of a chore. I also struggle with getting the paint/ thinners mix right. Oh, and my compressor sounds like a machine gun on steroids!

I'll see if I can check out the Echo article.

cheers

Mike

I think it will be a pity if it ends up green. It is becoming apparent that the Wantage Tramway locos were all painted a brick red colour, with various lining and panel surround styles changing over the years, until after the passenger service ended. GWR green appeared on the two conventional locos during the goods only time, following overhauls at Swindon. I have a model of No 4 which I painted bronze green before I knew it should be red, it will be repainted one day soon.

 

[spikey faz]

I think it will be a pity if it ends up green. It is becoming apparent that the Wantage Tramway locos were all painted a brick red colour, with various lining and panel surround styles changing over the years, until after the passenger service ended. GWR green appeared on the two conventional locos during the goods only time, following overhauls at Swindon. I have a model of No 4 which I painted bronze green before I knew it should be red, it will be repainted one day soon.

Red sounds good. Just got to work through the 101 variations of red on offer from Halfords.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I looked into getting a copy of the Echo but it looks like I need to take out a subscription. I'm not really a GWR man as I'm more into Southern, so will have to pass this up.

I've been thinking about colour scheme and still undecided. If the real loco was red then strictly speaking my model should also be red. However, although I might still be tempted to go green. After all my model is not going to be 100% accurate, what with the oversize cylinders! Maybe the builders had a spare set of parts and put another loco together. Or maybe No. 5 got sold off to my fictional Findon Limeworks.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I'm also thinking about how to replicate the cab curtains. Initial thoughts are kitchen foil. This should in theory crease nicely but a bit delicate and may not hold paint very well. But hey, I've still got to get the motor in first as well as a hundred and one other things before I start working on the paint! It's good to think ahead though.