7mm US model dabblings

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Guys, etching all the way through has it's draw backs, especially on the Inverter cabinet, there are a lot of pyramid panels here so if you made the cut outs the same size as the actual panel, you'd have very little material around the outside to form the core shell.
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There is a rain strip above the GTO cubicles, that would be better served as an etch but then given the thickness of the resin panels would not extend past those panels.

Speaking of additional printed parts, there's a big bulky door below the small blower vent, that's ideal for printing, getting that thickness from two or three layers of etch is a mare, then filing all the cusps off and keeping it square and neat more so.

The bolted flat panel to the upper left of the Inverter cubicle is 100% bona fida etch domain with 0.6 mm wire for hinges.

One thing that is readily apparent when you get really close to GEVO's, is their clunky industrial construction, that's hard to replicate in smaller scales and just feasible in O. It's this fiddly detailed raw type of construction that makes me tick and the more I see, the more I want to add; so much so that I am beginning to wonder if my wish for a really good GEVO would be better served in 1:32 :D

This is the rear of the small blower vent, it has a raised plug section that fits inside a suitably (smaller) opening in the core.

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The current GTO pyramid cover also has this, hence sitting proud for the test photo.

The raised plug works fine and gives additional grip for adhesives, it's only down side is the overly thick flange. The thicker plug at the rear certainly does reduce warping and makes the item easier to handle, if I could work out a way to consistently reduce the thickness of the flange evenly all the way around then it'd be the go to option.

On that conundrum I am considering a Proxxon mill to run around the edge of the flange on the inside to level it and thin it too.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Print the whole panel and drop it into an etched box/surround?

Personally, if you're worried abut strength I'd continue much as you are by rubbing down the back of the prints and sticking them to the surface. A half-etch to drop them into might help, but my guess is that you'll still have a visible join.

Doing those pressed panels isn't difficult to do as an etch either. Stronger and easier to disguise edges too, so maybe it just needs some careful thought about materials.

Steph
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph, cheers.

Yeah the whole side did cross my mind lol, it's certainly one way to go about it. In fact why stop at just the side, why not the whole inverter cubicle :eek:.

I am seriously considering the whole radiator section as a 3D print, as the GEVO's evolve the radiator section changes in style but the car body underneath stays practically the same, certainly geometrically but openings and doors alter. A drop over radiator section would simply fit over the core frame for several variants.

The vents work really well with the plug on the rear, the increased depth also allows a prototypical sinusoidal vent screen mesh that is 50% outside the engine and 50% inside the body.

The battery covers are printed mainly for the pressed vents which are hard to replicate well in etched format, for those I'd probably still make as thin as possible and rub down as best possible to reduce their thickness.

The inverter (there are others on the engine) pyramid covers could well be done as etch, I'm thinking half etch sheet with raised bolts on the outside, then on the inside skrawk the bend lines. That action may well translate into deforming the material on the outside to give the distinctive shape when viewed under certain angles.

The second test etch is nearly, once I've nailed down which way I'm going, holes for covers or flat surface, then I'll send it off. At the same time I'll work up a overlay sheet with all the doors, cab sides and covers I need in a thinner gauge material.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
A little bit more on the GEVO, managed to thin the battery doors a bit more and finally get the vents to have an opening.

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On the left the new one with openings, on the right the original solid vent version. Overall it's still a little too thick, so I need to work on that a little more.

The little box behind the Inverter cabinet came out better mind.

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I don't think I could make one from folded metal as neat as this, it just drops into place and looks pretty well spot on. Fixings vary between Railroads and variants but the overall shape remains the same.

The cover hides a widget and I was fortunate to find one with the cover missing I could photograph last year.

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I'll fabricate one from tube and a nut and poke it in the hole, looking at the above I can see that I've forgotten the isolation rubber between the two cabinets and that the base support on my rendition is incorrect. Mk II will be amended accordingly :thumbs:.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Mickoo,
Back in Canada. Drove up the Fraser Valley on the TCH today. I've located the vantage point for the Cisco Bridges and will spend more time there on the return leg. Additionally there are some great locations for photos/videos further up the valley where the TCH is between both lines.
Infuriating there were two trains running west in parallel on the CN and CP lines either side of the river nearing Kamloops. Didn't see anything heading east.

Ian
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Ian

If you can post details of how to get there etc for the photo locations it would be great as I would love to go there to photograph trains before too long.
I take it TCH is trans canada highway ?

Richard
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Mick it's on mine too, 30 years ago I took an overnight train from Vancouver to Lake Louise it was a lovely clear evening in December as we went up the Fraser canyon, you cold still see quite a lot in the moonlight. About 10 years ago we were skiing in Banff and my wife had toothache but it was a holiday Monday in Alberta so all the dentists were closed, we even tried the local hospital they couldn't help but one of the nurses siad it's not aholiday in British Columbia so why not drive to Golden, so we did 2 hours away along the TCH over kicking horse pass past the motive power depot at Fields to Golden, we even saw a few trains and the entrance to the spiral tunnel.


Richard
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Hi chaps,

Morants Curve


Take Highway 1A from Lake Louise, heading towards the Ski Resort. As the road climbs, take the first right hand turn onto Bow Valley Parkway. There is a small car park about 5 mins down on the left, directly opposite the new viewing area (not yet on any maps or satellite images).


Jasper
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Dead easy, as the main tracks run right beside Highway 16A. The Rocky Mountaineer is an occasional visitor.

Heading west out of Jasper on the 16A, there is a turn off on the right hand side after approx 10km. It looks like an access road for the railway, but it brings you out next to the line for trains climbing up out of Jasper.

Moose Lake (Hwy 16A). Railway runs along the side of the lake with some clear unobstructed views, although no suitable stopping places. However, having looked at the map, at the bottom end of the lake there is a side road on the right, Red Pass Townsite Road, which leads down to the railway and parallel to it, plus there is a rail bridge over the River Fraser.

At Tete Jeune Cache, take Highway 5 south for Kamloops. Between McMurphy and Vavenby the Railway crosses the North Thompson River. Two options here, you can photograph trains straight on as they head towards the bridge. There is space on the side of the road to park up, but probably easier with a SUv/4x4 than a saloon !
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Second option is to capture the trains on the bridge. Heading south, there is a rough pull in area where it is safe to park, and it's then just a case of safely crossing the road and getting to the other side of the concrete barrier to set up.
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Kamloops to Hope on Highway 1.
Spences Bridge. Good view of the railway on the opposite river bank, plus the other line on the same side as yourself behind and slightly above.
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The next decent location is where the CN route passes over the highway. I parked up to the right of the bridge, where the service road starts. However, there is another area a bit further on (grey icon on above map) where you are then above the CN route, but with a clear view of the CP route too.

Cisco Bridges
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About 500 metres before Siska Flats, park at the ample pull in on the left hand side of the road as you head south.
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Then walk down the road, again crossing when safe to do so to the end of the concrete barrier, and follow the path up the small embankment.
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I found the best spot to be just to the left of the green tree in the middle of the above screen shot.

South of Boston Bar, Hell's Gate Airtram (cable car to us Europeans)can provide an interesting location across the river at Simon's Cafe.

Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park
DSC_0335 by Ian Allen, on Flickr

Literally off the beaten track. Take the dirt road down to the old bridge, cross over, and then follow the little path to the right. This leads up to the CN route. Take care, wlak along the trackbed, past the notice with 14 on it, to a wider part where it is safe to sit (there was a pile of ballast there at the time) and then wait for a train !
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Ian
 

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JasonD

Western Thunderer
I always tend to think of those American Basement Empire layouts with "tracks everywhere" as being a bit unrealistic.... :rolleyes:
What do I know..??? :confused: :rolleyes: :oops::oops::oops: :shit:

But Jordan, if you haven't got a huge basement, you can put N at the back, HO in the middl ... oh you know where this is going....
Jason
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Hi guys,

Another location would be Notch Hill Rd. , west of Balmoral, as one of the loops is literally a loop !

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There are a couple of other good looking locations, but I'm still trying to find them on the maps !

Ian
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Hi,

Sakkum on the TCH:
Sakkum Overhead, CPR Mile 81.47.
Grid ref: 50.310916,-121.395574

Nicomen House on the TCH.
A little north of Nicomen Underpass, CPR Mile 84.71.
Grid ref : 50.269094,-121.401155

Ian
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
79 days.....

Mile six, three, five, decimal zero.

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It's 09:36 and I've already been on the road now for 5½ hrs, but it's worth it to capture cigar band BNSF 4023 storming up the grade at East Denby out of the Mojave desert under Kodachrome skies.

Held back by a manifest which stopped here earlier as they ran out of time, this is the last of six trains caught up in the bottle neck and is racing east to Needles (56 miles) for a crew change it's self.

Goffs hill (26 miles ahead) is the summit of the climb before the drop down to Needles.

In the background, thick clag is building from the west and this was the last sunny side shot of the day, don't be fooled by the phrase desert, sometimes it gets pretty grim out there.

Mile six, nine, two, decimal eight, some 57 miles west the weather has closed right in.

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Swoosh BNSF 8094 rolls through the bends at Ludlow, as it heads east with a priority Z train. The gradient here (to Ash Hill 10 miles ahead) is sightly less, but the bends take their toll.

Z trains do not hang around and this one was no exception.

The clouds in the background dumped hail and heavy rain shortly after.
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Okay a little update of sorts, my passion for GE wide cabs is apparent to anyone who's even briefly trawled through these pages and the acquired MTH premier model last year, whilst nice, didn't really fit the bill.

I mean talk about generic, it's so generic it doesn't actually fit any of the 10,000+ models produced by GE, I mean c'mon :rolleyes:

This leaves a few choices, build your own (which I'm doing slowly in the background) heavily modify the MTH model (which I still plan to do, though not so heavy as originally planned) or try and acquire one of the rare brass models floating around, primarily Overland (OMI - AJIN).

The latter is not so easy, they tend to be small runs and whilst brass and detailed do tend to fall short of modern levels of detail, for example the body doors are all half etched, very 2D when the real engine is 3D when you get up close. Even so the search continued and by chance I stumbled across one on a web site you'd not normally associate with American brass or even anything American really.

The photo showed an all brass Overland C40-8W one of the very first generation of wide cabs, shipped to several Railroads the ones sent to ATSF were distinct with their gull winged roofs and this was a copy of said item, okay, not my preferred choice but I can work with it.

To boot it was local and the price respectable and a tentative phone conversation ensued with mixed results, it was still available, but had since been painted in ATSF livery, DCC fitted and basic sound....and the price had gone up.

I let it stew for a week and decided, sod it, you only live once and agreed to collect for the stated sum. So I now own a Overland ATSF C40-8W and very nice it is too.

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It's a little grubby, initially I thought that might just be dust or dried condensate, some of it may well be, but it appears to have had some basic weathering applied with a broad brush.

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My initial concern over the 3rd party paint job was null, it is really nice, the only minor niggle is the Santa Fe decal on the side has silvered/possibly lifted and the edge of the decal is quite noticeable, I'll ponder solutions for that in due course.

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The rad cubicle is okay, a little dirty and I'm sure there should be panels to enclose the cores, maybe not, I'll have to check 1:1 detail photos to be sure. The 2D doors are readily apparent, as are the knuckle duster handles.

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I'm not sure why it has green ditch lights, I'll have to see what colour they light up when powered and the main headlights are too bulbous, they'll have to come out, these are all after market addon's, Overland bare brass rarely comes with these details or glazing, which on this model is nicely done.

I'm not convinced the gull wing roof profile is correct, it looks overly aggressive, again I'll have to check 1:1 images to be sure, but in all honesty, there's little you can do about it anyway.

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The rear end is nice and tidy, there is hose supplied in the box with cast glad hands and I'm not sure the rear lights would be red and amber, again real photos or a good read of the review in Diesel Era should confirm the specifics.

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Underneath we have the typical Overland drive system with the centre wheels being a tower drive for a large single motor in the middle, all of which results in full cab details, the staining is easy to see and does like like it has been purposely applied. Also apparent is the big hole under the cab, that will have to go and whilst there are more than a handful of pipes, there's no where near as many as there should be, maybe a few more can be added ;)

In the end it's a nice model and there's a couple of choices, leave alone and sympathetically scrub it up (outside of my era really) and add the under details where relevant, or, strip it down and bring it forward into modern times. Many C40-8W have gone to the scrap yards and the later C41-8W (basically the same engine with a little more grunt) but BNSF acquired these and revamped some and painted them in a new heritage scheme, it's nice but not quite my preference.

Recently CN acquired a handful, all I think, and have been upgrading them with new cooler groups and I understand internal upgrades as well, these are now being turned out in CN's distinctive black with red nose and white sash, very appealing :thumbs:

So that's where the story would end, but no, whilst chit chatting about the weather with the proprietor and another customer and looking through the display cases I noted another brass engine stuck down one end, on closer inspection it was a SP cab forward, pretty rare and especially in brass. I prefer brass as you get to really see whats under the paint, sometimes best not to :cool:

Anyway, I voiced how nice it was and then he said "it's overland too", which I didn't think it was as I've not recalled Overland making a SP cab forward, but we moved on and chatted a bit more, "it's for sale you know" Oh dear :eek:

I tried to say something intelligent but nothing came forth, I'd already paid a fairly hefty figure for the Dash 8 and the card was still smoking and besides, it was brass, SP and a cab forward, it'd be well outside of my price range, as have every other one I've ever seen for sale.

So I just smiled and my mouth said "how much" which I can assure you is not what my mind was saying, the reply was even equally staggering, that must be just for the tender surely, but no it was the whole model :eek:

The end result was a given, it had to leave with me, I thought the Overland GTEL was a once in a life time gift but here was another, could I afford it....can anyone ever, was it a good price.....hell yes (no import duties, postage or taxes), would I ever get this opportunity again....probably never.

So I walked away with it, we couldn't test it as the rear engine was stuck out of line and there was no box, all of which I could easily live with.

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If nothing else, it's big, bloody BIG.

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It looks to have be lacquered and is quite tarnished but overall it appears whole and a couple of bits broke off on the way home, steps and some other sundry part. There's also some green mould from flux residue which there really shouldn't be, closer inspection reveals damage repairs by previous owners and not flux from manufacturing, it'll clean up I'm sure.

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Underneath is nice and clean and most importantly the wheel treads are immaculate = zero run hours, it's a mint example.

There's also a etched label and it states Precision Scale Co, which makes obvious sense as they do make import brass cab forwards, it's also model 0028 of how many I've no idea. A little research reveals it's a late model AC6 with streamlined cab, rarer than the more popular flat front cab if the WWW is to be believed.

Closer inspection reveals some damage

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The right hand cab spectacle plate does not line up with the cab shell, it could be that the cab isn't fitted correctly but other items more or less line up so it might have had a ding or just not assembled correctly to begin with, it's not a problem to resolve either way.

There's also damaged pipework up front behind the steps and the firebox foundation ring blow down valve pipework has been repaired (badly), the same applies to the other side and is not surprising as this is a natural pl;ace to pick the model up, as the pipework above bears witness to.

The foot plate has some blobs of factory solder showing so that'll have to be cleaned up but overall it's not too badly damaged.

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The left side shows the broken steps, some previous repair work under the cab deck, damaged cinder screen frame, as well as the damaged/repaired blow down pipework.

The pilot is odd, it's half way between flat and bow fronted engines and many had revised pilots and ploughs in later years when working on the mountain divisions.

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The rear engine has locked slightly off line and I don't want to force it, I suspect one of the articulated steam pipes has bound up and it won't be hard to resolve once it's stripped down. The green cable down the middle of the rear engine needs disguising and the set up on the draw bar shows it's has the common US style of pick ups.

The final (for now) oddity is the builders plate, nicely detailed and readable in places, such that the engine is Baldwins serial #60668, which according to the records is an AC4 which means I'll have to source a new one at some point.

The tender is also in good shape, better than the engine really and only really needs cleaning up with superficial repairs (hand rails, pipes, rear ladder etc) before painting.

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Again, perfect wheel treads indicating zero run hours.

I am in the US in a couple of months and just up the road (Sacramento) is the only preserved example, although it's an AC12 many parts are common, maybe a field trip is required :D.

Until then, to save money and make amends, I'm on dog biscuits and tap water :p
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I'm not convinced the gull wing roof profile is correct, it looks overly aggressive, again I'll have to check 1:1 images to be sure, but in all honesty, there's little you can do about it anyway.

The inner angle is too sharp. Here's one of your photos from earlier in the thread... some filler will solve the problem!

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As for the AC12..... P48... and 70 PFE boxcars + caboose!
 
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