2mm Small beginnings

[Overseer]

As Adrian has revealed his 2mm fine scale plans it seems like a good time to show some of my dabblings in 2mm scale. I have no background in N scale, having always been put off by the massively overwidth wheels and huge rails. But seeing what some people have achieved, including bcnPete on RMWeb, led me astray a few years ago. Nothing has been completed but some pleasant hours has been spent building some very nice kits and starting on scratch building a GER E22 tank loco.


Midland Railway wagon kits from the 2mmSA. The etched nickel silver kits are very easy to assemble and only take an hour or so for the body with all the bracket details in place.

The underframe etch.

And the GER E22 as it currently is. The motor should just fit. Since turning the smokebox door Buckjumper has published some original condition photos on his Basilica Fields blog, which I prefer but will finish this as it is.




Working in the much smaller size has been interesting and I think is improving my modelling standards overall.

 

[queensquare]

Another one out of the closet, marvellous. We are going to have to start twomill anonymous at this rate

The E22 is looking superb. The association motor you have there is very good, I have recently put one in a pannier and am very happy with the results. However, if your are looking for a bit more space in the loco I can highly recommend the Nigel Lawton 8mm motor. I use these as standard on my small North Somerset Light Railway locos and find them excellent, and cheap!

Keep us posted on your 2mm adventures.

Jerry

 

[farnetti]

I moved up to 7mm years ago because I found the small detail etchings in 4mm were getting a bit fiddly to deal with. Now I am building MMP kits which are very detailed so still dealing with detailed fiddly bits that are possible in 7mm.

In 2mm chains and pins to lock the hand brakes, for instance, are not an option but does it matter. These wagons and loco certainly look the part.

I seem to remember David Jenkinson said, when modelling if you can't spot a detail from 2ft it's not worth doing, or words to that effect. I'm not sure whether that just applied to 7mm or all scales.

Ken

 

[john lewsey]

Nice ain't they

 

[farnetti]

Oh,Yes

 

[Overseer]

I moved up to 7mm years ago because I found the small detail etchings in 4mm were getting a bit fiddly to deal with. Now I am building MMP kits which are very detailed so still dealing with detailed fiddly bits that are possible in 7mm.

In 2mm chains and pins to lock the hand brakes, for instance, are not an option but does it matter. These wagons and loco certainly look the part.

I seem to remember David Jenkinson said, when modelling if you can't spot a detail from 2ft it's not worth doing, or words to that effect. I'm not sure whether that just applied to 7mm or all scales.

Ken

The level of detail question will keep going around. I prefer detail to be included, provided that it is in scale, as I think the 'details' often catch the light so make more of a contribution to the overall effect than their size would suggest. A lack of detail is often noticeable from a distance and models can look too plain. Digital cameras have also made taking close up photos much easier and the web means more people can see the details, maybe the rule should now be if you can see it on the prototype from 2ft away it should be included. I do think it becomes exponentially more difficult to scratch build details convincingly as the scale gets smaller, even the difference between 4mm and 3.5mm scales makes a noticeable difference when working. Kits are different, a good kit like those shown in the first post are simple to put together and have all the detail needed with little effort by the builder so the small size is hardly an issue.

 

[adrian]

Thanks for posting - nice to see other having a go.

Nothing has been completed but some pleasant hours has been spent building some very nice kits

I think that's the stage I'm at as well. I started with a couple of kits to see what they were like, throughly enjoyed just building them as supplied and was impressed at how well they went together. So now I'm just waiting for another couple of parcels from the stores to finish the wagons I've got and start another few. Just cutting wood for the baseboard whilst I'm waiting.

I can highly recommend the Nigel Lawton 8mm motor

Quick query then if I may. I've been looking at this motor and the 6mm one to build a little motor bogie. I'm just puzzling over required gear ratios, I was intending the initial drive to be a belt drive about 1:3.6 driving an idler shaft with the 21:1. So about 75:1 gearing driving 7.5mm diameter driving wheels. Does this sound about right? To be honest the gears and pulleys aren't expensive at all so I was thinking of getting a few different sizes and just experimenting.

 

[queensquare]

Adrian, 75:1 would be more than enough. My Terrier and the little Hudswell Clarke are both 60:1 and are very controllable with the Lawton 8mm. I've not used any of the rubber drive items myself but intend picking up a few bits to play with when I see Nigel at the Small and Delightful show at Shepton later in the month.
I think the 8mm is better than the 10mm motor he does. I've not tried the 6mm yet although Alex Duckworth has got some very good results with them although they understandably lack torque.

Jerry

 

[adrian]

I think the 8mm is better than the 10mm motor he does. I've not tried the 6mm yet although Alex Duckworth has got some very good results with them although they understandably lack torque.

Thanks for that - I was looking at the 6mm motor just because it's shorter. It's only for the rail motor so as long as it's got enough torque to drag itself along I'll be happy.

 

[Overseer]

Thanks for that - I was looking at the 6mm motor just because it's shorter. It's only for the rail motor so as long as it's got enough torque to drag itself along I'll be happy.

I have used the 6mm motor successfully in a HO scale rail tractor, see the first post in my Oddments thread, with about 40:1 gearing and 10.5mm wheels so it should work in the rail motor. I haven't tried the 8mm motor yet so can't compare them. I am not convinced that the rubber band drives are a great idea, I have used one and it works well when new but I have had problems after some months storage - the band seems to stretch a bit and running becomes erratic until the band is replaced.

 

[BCN-Pete]

Hi Fraser,

Thanks for the mention above - we seem to have lost contact since I moved back to UK...maybe as I have less time on my hands now as unlike BCN the Architecture profession is flat out in London.

Watching your thread with interest...I might be flexing my 7mm muscles again soon

 

[Overseer]

Hi Fraser,

Thanks for the mention above - we seem to have lost contact since I moved back to UK...maybe as I have less time on my hands now as unlike BCN the Architecture profession is flat out in London.

Watching your thread with interest...I might be flexing my 7mm muscles again soon

Pete, Good to hear from you. It will be interesting to see what you come up with in 7mm. In the meantime you could add a bit of length to Kyle.

Mostly due to your inspiration I have been collecting bits and pieces for a small part of the Kyle line in the 80's and/or 90s in N on 9.42mm gauge. It hasn't got out of boxes yet but I have plans to cut the underfloor bathtubs off a Dapol 156 dummy and make it see through like it should be with a motor tucked into the inner end of one unit driving a bogie in the other unit - we will see what happens sometime in the future. These are some of my photos taken over the years.

Super Sprinters at Kyle in 1992. Not large logo 37s, but the location is still amazing.


I won't be attempting Kyle but am thinking about modelling the line past Ravens Rock and a bit to the west with a little bridge like this -

Not sure whether winter would be a good idea or not. But the ideal transport (if a train doesn't go where you need to go) -

This is a Land Rover forum isn't it?

And if a bit of variety is needed a steam special could be run. These are the 1997 trip to Kyle. First at Inverness.


Still blue.

Just checking whether Mark 1 glass is flat. The static grass has been used to good effect.

And for the helicopter spotters -


Good shots for giving an impression of the scenery along the way. I probably wouldn't have taken them if the helicopter had not been filming the train.



The Swindon connection.


At the end of the line. The BR standard buffer stop seems to have had a coat of paint since 1992 but has gained lots more rust.

Apologies to anyone expecting some 2mm modelling, this project is still at the research/inspiration stage.

 

[BCN-Pete]

Superb and varied set of pics there - something for everyone - look forward to see what evolves from them