Martin Shaw
Western Thunderer
As Steph's post above suggests we had a phone call this afternoon, which was most helpful, I would like to make public my grateful thanks for taking the time and interest to assist me. The fruits of this will become apparent in due course. He also suggested that the likely origin of the kit is Shedmaster, and more probably originally 4mm by Jidenco. This does explain some of the weirdness.
And now, for your Saturday evenings entertainment, "The Wheels Dilemma".
Firstly the prototype, the quoted diameter in Bradley et al is 6' 7", this would be new, the diameter would reduce with each turning of the tyre back to profile so could easily be 6' 4" by scrap size. This scales to 46.1mm - 44.4mm.
The crankpin is located 9" from the axle centre, 5.25mm scale.
The tyre width is 5", increasing on the face edge where the lips is to say 5 1/2", 3.2mm scale.
These are the wheels I have, the green one is off the model, coarse standard and uninsulated. It is possible that it could be finescaled and insulated but there isn't much meat in the rim for a resin filled gap, there is also a cost to this. Note also the 6BA brass screw inserted from the rear as a crankpin, less than desirable. The one on the right is of a finscale insulated set bought last year, and whilst not immediately as attractives as the green one, it is a rather better original casting with a clearly defined interface between the spokes and the central hub.
Dimensions, the green one is 45.6mm in diameter but the tyre width is 2.8mm so somewhat thin. THe crankpin is 7.5mm from the centre so some 2.25mm oversize, which scaled up is 3 3/4". It has been done like this to position the crankpin centrally in the boss and I suspect If I hadn't told you it was wrong, nobody would have noticed.
The unpainted one is 44.9mm, towards the bottom of the tolerance and indeed if the tyre had been turned down the rim width would have reduced as well, in this case it is 3.8mm which is oversize. More importantly from a visual perspective, the crank position relative to the axle is correct but because it isn't centrally on the boss it looks odd.
There it is, neither wheel is dimensionally spot on in all criteria, and they are also both compromised on aesthetics, the question therefore is which would you use. I appreciate it's ultimately my decision but I'm canvassing opinion here.
Alternatively the third option is neither and get a set from Slaters, but from memory they don't do a specific one for the D15 so again a compromise
would be needed, and I have spent money already.
Regards
Martin
And now, for your Saturday evenings entertainment, "The Wheels Dilemma".
Firstly the prototype, the quoted diameter in Bradley et al is 6' 7", this would be new, the diameter would reduce with each turning of the tyre back to profile so could easily be 6' 4" by scrap size. This scales to 46.1mm - 44.4mm.
The crankpin is located 9" from the axle centre, 5.25mm scale.
The tyre width is 5", increasing on the face edge where the lips is to say 5 1/2", 3.2mm scale.
These are the wheels I have, the green one is off the model, coarse standard and uninsulated. It is possible that it could be finescaled and insulated but there isn't much meat in the rim for a resin filled gap, there is also a cost to this. Note also the 6BA brass screw inserted from the rear as a crankpin, less than desirable. The one on the right is of a finscale insulated set bought last year, and whilst not immediately as attractives as the green one, it is a rather better original casting with a clearly defined interface between the spokes and the central hub.
Dimensions, the green one is 45.6mm in diameter but the tyre width is 2.8mm so somewhat thin. THe crankpin is 7.5mm from the centre so some 2.25mm oversize, which scaled up is 3 3/4". It has been done like this to position the crankpin centrally in the boss and I suspect If I hadn't told you it was wrong, nobody would have noticed.
The unpainted one is 44.9mm, towards the bottom of the tolerance and indeed if the tyre had been turned down the rim width would have reduced as well, in this case it is 3.8mm which is oversize. More importantly from a visual perspective, the crank position relative to the axle is correct but because it isn't centrally on the boss it looks odd.
There it is, neither wheel is dimensionally spot on in all criteria, and they are also both compromised on aesthetics, the question therefore is which would you use. I appreciate it's ultimately my decision but I'm canvassing opinion here.
Alternatively the third option is neither and get a set from Slaters, but from memory they don't do a specific one for the D15 so again a compromise
would be needed, and I have spent money already.
Regards
Martin
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