7mm Pete's workbench. LMS 2P or madness in a box.

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
QUOTE : I think I'm going to blacken the handrails, I think they need dulling down.

When BR adopted the GWR green livery, there was a lot more green paint than in GW days. Handrails, sandbox backing plates, 'footplate' around the Tender and tops of splashers were green as well as lots of detail parts and of course the running plate angle. In some cases, the cab roof was green up to the gutter strip ~ probably to match a Stanier curved top Tender.
Larry,
I believe the green lower cab roofs was a Derby thing, Crewe painted the whole roof black. But you know sometimes but not always rule:confused:
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Almost there. The jubilee just needs maybe one or two evening session to finish. I need to sort out lamp irons I managed to break two. I did also find there were no loco tender couplings, should of looked earlier, so made 2 slightly different lengths.

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The photos show with the loco and tender coupled with the shorter bar. I suppose I ought to get back the the 1262, although the smallest, is putting up the biggest fight.
 
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Ian Rathbone

Western Thunderer
LarryG Western Thunderer
QUOTE : I think I'm going to blacken the handrails, I think they need dulling down.

'When BR adopted the GWR green livery, there was a lot more green paint than in GW days. Handrails, sandbox backing plates, 'footplate' around the Tender and tops of splashers were green as well as lots of detail parts and of course the running plate angle. In some cases, the cab roof was green up to the gutter strip ~ probably to match a Stanier curved top Tender.'

Hand rails were officially to be black under BR. The WR continued to paint hand rails the background colour, except at the cab entrance where they were unpainted. The 'footplate' around the tender was painted green by GWR. The WR painted the tops of splashers black except for the County Class, and splashers adjacent to the fire iron tunnel. Crewe painted splasher tops green, as did the ER. On the SR things varied - I have photos of Schools with both black and green splasher tops. I have yet to see a photo of a Nelson or Arthur where the colour can be discerned. Warren hasn't shown me his photos yet! The only extra bit of green on a WR loco was the footplate angle (hanging bar, valence) which, perversely, remained unlined while all the other regions lined them.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I think the 1262 is now finished. The varnish was a bit of a nightmare, I tried a different sheen from normal, same brand etc but having spayed it on a can, it looked good. But on the loco it never really felt dry. Fortunately an over spray with the normal one sorted it out.
I'm pleased with where this one has ended up considering where it started from.

If I'd any midland aspiration, I would be tempted to keep this one. It is the sort of little tank I like.

Now the pictures.

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The cruel close ups show off my poor lining skills.
 
LMS 2P

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
As the Dean's good is in painting thought I'd start something else. It was going to be the RR R class 0-6-2T but I've not got a trailing wheel as yet. It'll at least a month or so before it arrives.

So I thought I would start the College Models 2P I got from the guilds executor service. Complete with wheels and motor. Not much was done but what was, was very poor. So back to kit form. So now we have a box of bits with no instruction. I think there may be bits left unless I can find some.
So to the start of the rebuild. Coupling rods, as you can see I've already brushed them to a matching pair. Top is the one nearly complete the Lower shows what I started with. Yes I should of got some new ones, but it would take months to get here.

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More soon maybe.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
A little slow at the moment. Having to make a few spacers. Also making it with 3 point compensation. The point will be the bogie, which is next to be built. After that the fun begins, trying to find out where all the parts go. Still in dire need of instruction for this or the ACME version of the same kit.
I started the frames by joining them and making them a pair. Rear axle bush holes were 1mm out to each other height wise. The side compensation beams were a trial. Me not having brain in gear was biggest problem. Only fitted twice and adjusted with file twice.
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Had to make a new bogie pivot spacer as the one that came out when I striped the frames.was 2mm too narrow. Only knows how it was soldered in. Just need to do one for the motion bracket. Once I've guessed at the shape.

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I made up the ash pan as best as I can guess it's shape. The wings need narrowing either to site between the frames or sit under them.

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Well that's your small onion for this year.

Happy new year to you all.

We're of to the beach for a week. So no trains for me, just warm sunshine and cool wine and beer. So see you next year.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
You do like a challenge Peter!

A College Models "kit" and no instructions. You're a braver man than me. I did battle with a College Ivatt 4F many moons ago, but at least I had some instructions. The Stanier 3P is etchings only but it's well designed and so far everything fits. Plus, I can refer to Mike Edge's build on RMWeb and if I get stuck, I can always give him a ring.

Having said that, I did rebuild a J&M 4F that my brother inherited from a friend who passed away. A complete strip and reassemble, but again, a well designed kit plus instructions. Good luck and enjoy the beach.

I do like the detritus on the work bench. Is is just me or do you find that you can cover the bench in tools just to fit a handrail knob? :confused:
Cheers,
Peter
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I do like the detritus on the work bench. Is is just me or do you find that you can cover the bench in tools just to fit a handrail knob? :confused:
Cheers,

The number of tools required expands more, the greater the number owned. When in the building trade you'd start the morning with a little bag of hand tools required for that days job. By evening it would take 30 minutes to put them all away in the van.

As for a challenge, it's a bit like scratch build but with most parts cut out almost to shape. The biggest problem is all the little bits and what the designer was doing.
 
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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Happy new year to all.

I've managed a little time at the bench. It seemed to be more about thinking than working.
What's been done? Well the bogie has been completed, and it's mounting pin. So the frames now sit on the wheels and I think are level. Detailing can now begin.
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Now the front end has been butchered by previous owner. I think I will make an overlay to get the oversized cut outs looking better. Probably fitted between the front and front driver. I will probably use plasticard and still need to put side control on the bogie. That should cure any shorting.

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The footplate has been re riveted, and re assembled. Unfortunately it fell into a few more parts than it was designed to be. I can now start building the superstructure.

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I've also made start on the cab. It's a roof and sides as one piece. Not easy to get right. Needs fettling to fit the step downs.

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Now onto the chief tester of loco frames within the house, here testing out the compensation.

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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Having built the basic cab, I was not completely happy. The basics all seem to be roughly right, but the whole is not. This lead to some thinking, what was the rest like. How did it compare to the drawing I have. My thinking is make the main parts and and adjust where needed.

So where do you start. Well, for me I decided to start with the frames and footplate. The footplate is pretty good against the drawing I have. The frames fit more or less to it too. The wheels are in the right place, which is a good start. The front of the frames look like they've been cut back. The guard irons will not fit as is. Now lining up the frames and the footplate things look a little queer.

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Some adjustments needed.

After this I decided I checked the cab on the footplate again. It is to wide it sits on the footplate rivets. Not inside. It also needs to move forward to put splashers in the right place. This I think will need a new cab cutting. I will make and adjust the smokebox, boiler and firebox. Then see what and how needs found to the cab.

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The boiler has been made, I do dislike half etch ones. It is about a boiler band to long. But not going to adjust until all parts are made and checked for total length.

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Smoke box is next. This needed the inner shortening so the outer wrapper. The inner was about 1mm longer than the outer. The outer still needs fixing. I will screw the smoke box and boiler together to ease checking against firebox.

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Fits in place, let's hope the rest will.

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More soon.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I've been setting out the body for the 2P today. Some adjustments are needed.

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Right footplate is close enough right length, and width. Drops are within 0.5 mm. Boiler centre line is within 0.25mm. so those basics are right.
Smoke box is ok. Just needs finishing. Boiler is ok but about 1.5mm too long at back. Easy to fix.

Because of over length parts this is the result.

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Now firebox and cab site nicely together.
IMG_20200116_144423053.jpg

But are about 2.5mm to high.
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Now I going to split the firebox at the top and move it up the dormers and have a central join, bit like the prototype. It also needs a little off of each end. If it does not work, I've lost a little time. Now the cab can't be cut a shut so easily, if at all. The drop is to far forward too. So it I feel is a remake, along with the front sheet which is to high and wide.

Time to do some adjustments and more pondering.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Peter
I wonder if Mike William's ever did a test build on this before producing kits for sale? If he did, why on earth would he release it without correcting these glaring errors. All credit to you for giving it a go, but imagine the poor novice who buys a simple 4 4 0 tender engine with inside valve gear thinking it will be a relatively easy build, and then having to deal with this :shit:. I'm sure you will make a nice model from it, but it really is a kit from the bad old days. Good luck!

Cheers,
Peter
 

adrian

Flying Squad
But are about 2.5mm to high.
:eek: Strewth :eek:

My admiration if you can get this sorted. It certainly makes scratch building an attractive option, if you can fix this then scratch building would be a walk in the park.

I wonder if Mike William's ever did a test build on this before producing kits for sale? If he did, why on earth would he release it without correcting these glaring errors.
That's a rhetorical question - correct? I could comment but it might overload the profanity filter. :D
 
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