7mm Pete's workbench. LMS 2P or madness in a box.

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Looking more closely at the photos, to me it looks like the 1930's windows have a surround, but have a chamfer on the inside. I will check some more and and see if it can be replicated easily.

Chris, D2303 5586 seems to of been loose from 59 until scraping. I assume that these only had one toilet vent.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Looking more closely at the photos, to me it looks like the 1930's windows have a surround, but have a chamfer on the inside. I will check some more and and see if it can be replicated easily.

Chris, D2303 5586 seems to of been loose from 59 until scraping. I assume that these only had one toilet vent.

Yes, single vent if I'm reading Gould correctly. Coach was delivered in July 1929.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Looking more closely at the photos, to me it looks like the 1930's windows have a surround, but have a chamfer on the inside. I will check some more and and see if it can be replicated easily.

The Low Window and High Window stock (Pattern 1 and 2 in Chris' table) are as you describe. The window frame proper is wood and counts as part of the structure of the coach - remember these vehicles are steel clad over a wooden structure/frame). The outside of the window frame is covered by a thin steel surround (bolection) and the inside of the frame has a chamfer from the bolection back to the glass. I assume the chamfer is there basically to stop water pooling around the frame.

In model form, Slater's have the bolection/frame modelled in and quite nicely shaped. On my styrene carriages I can make the shapes quite easily (0.005" bolection, scrape the inside edge for the chamfer once it's stuck in place). Forming the shape is trickier in brass; dedication with a file or perhaps a shaped cutter in a convenient machine tool might be the way to go?

By way of an illustration, here's a Nondescript Brake under construction with a Slater's Corridor Third side laid on top.20190331_181646.jpg
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Thanks both. Looks like I have some filing to do. Shame it's not an open with large windows both sides.
Single vent is nice as I have those in the kit.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
A little experimenting. I have put a file to the bolections. I think it's a great improvement, does not seem to take to long either. But lets see after tidying up. Although it needs to be seen with some primer really know. You'll see I've tracked the roof will solder properly later. Need to cut out floor first to take interior and sole bars.


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Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
That's a damned good start, Peter.

A quick pointer, if I may; watch over-filing into the corner of the windows. I 'lost' a side on the Continental (in my avatar), by losing definition of the corner radius in the windows. Of course, brass won't cut back as quickly, so it may not be a huge issue...

It's really lovely to see someone taking as much care of their rolling stock as their locos!

Steph
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Not much done this week. Leaky roof on shed to fix. Nearly found all but one I'm struggling with, and with up to 4 inches a day at moment it's a pain.

Anyway the Maunsell is now bottom less. With roof soldered up solid. It will need filling and sanding nearer paint time it's wrinkled in places.

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The inside is now attached to the underframe. Just need to finish both bits now.

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Don't worry the bogies are just propping up the underframe, I've not got on that well.

It fits together too. Tight in places but that can be solved. Once that's done along with the fixings for the 2 halves I will get on with the detailing. Still need to source of make some parts. So it may not be finished before trip to UK in July.

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As you can see there's a lot of cleaning to do, it had almost turned brown since the last session on it.
 
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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Not having much time and I couldn't be a***d to warm up the iron to make the brake gear parts. I set about the seats. I cut up section that was supplied. Before remembering I had some Slaters first class ones in stock. I'm not sure why they are supplied in sets of 3, I think most composites were 4 compartments and full firsts were 7.

Anyway having opted to go for a 3 compartment one I'm lucky and have enough.


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Once tidied up, I will glue in once all the painting is complete.
Back to the 1262. Not happy with the lining, hopefully I can fix it rather than strip and repaint.
 

PeteB

Active Member
Hi Peter
I don't know if this helps, but I use Waterslide decal paper. Just paint a section with the colour you want and then with a 15 scalpel and a ruler cut a strip to the thickness required. As you cut you will find that the backing comes off (no water required). Be careful as the strip is very delicate.
Paint on to the model using decalfix and leave to dry. After varnish it will stay put.DSC_0665.JPG
You do get straight lines.

Pete
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I use magic tape for boiler bands done the same way. I've tried 2 waterslide printer sheets both I did not like they seemed very thick, and were quite noticeable. Can you get non printer sheets?
 

PeteB

Active Member
Peter
I use Lazertran Inkjet Waterslide Decal Paper www.lazertran.com
It is very thin and to be honest any thinner and it would be just about impossible to handle.
Like I said I paint an area with a brush which seems to work ok, but I guess you could spray. I did try using the printer but I found I got a better result by painting. Also you are using the correct colour of your choice and not limited by the choices on the computer.
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Because you're cutting a thin line the backing comes off with out the use of water.
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I apply with a brush Decalfix to the area and lay the strip in place then finish with another brush of Decalfix. After varnish you will only see the lining.
It is tricky but once to get the nack it's not so bad, but I think worth it.

Pete
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Thanks Peter,

I will see if I can get some if not I'll wait to July when in UK.

Why's everyone's cutting mat so clean anf slash free. Even the back of mine is not that good.
 
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