7mm Pete's workbench. LMS 2P or madness in a box.

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
I think that's it as far as lining. There is a little more painting to do and to add it's identity.
Then of course put it all together again if I can remember how.

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Now I need to get the pen out and line the MR 1262 and my LSWR 0395. Then they can be finished too.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Moving on with the Maunsell composite. After measuring, I am now confused of Brazil. The diagram 2302 is an 8'6" body, but the body will end up 61.5mm not 60.2mm as it should be. Diagram 2301 is 9' wide (63mm). So it will come out somewhere between the two. That I think leaves with a choice from either diagram. But not sure whether it would look better being slightly narrow for R4 or slightly wide for R1.
Back to the easy part.
Both bogies are now waiting for the plastic parts and a coat of black stuff. No difficulties here as such the one I had to turn around was the most difficult as it was in more unit parts than the second one.MVIMG_20190311_100735083.jpg
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Now did I mention something being easy. Well that was a mistake. The body kit is made like many early etched kits from brass that struggles to stay straight laying flat in a box.
I started on what I thought was an easy bit, you just to get the feel of it. Well the inner floor, and partitions were cleaned and soldering iron waved around. Well the corridor partition looked like the front of a serpentine chest. So after getting the blow lamp out I cleaned off the solder and blood, body count was 2 digits sliced once and one twice. Try again but the brass waved as the iron past close by. Forth digit pierced. Pinned and screwed floor to ply, in holes new and old. Some angle along top of corridor, well again it was part of trial two. Having to remove pins and file down tags made progress slow but does now look the part.

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Second wound to digit four. Getting worried, one running out of plasters and only have nine usable digits, and a lot of carriage to do.

To the under frame, folded and soldered, time to look at details. Second wound to digit one through plaster.

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Also as word of warning, plasters do not stop phosphoric acid, and it makes your eyes water no matter how quickly you tear it of. (Plaster not finger, however tempting).
Expat wishing he was in UK where bloodsports are banned.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Clicking the 'like' comment seems inappropriate - 'ouch' is more suitable.

I think it's all about 012" so the etched edges are like Stanley blades, and half etched tags like scalpels. Being 400+ mm long they wobble about and catch you when you're not looking.
 

markjj

Western Thunderer
Don't use plasters use Supeglue it was designed during the Vietnam war for such a purpose. It's waterproof acid proof and gives you a hard coating to the cut...
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Workshop time has been limited, the Maunsell composite, is going nowhere fast.
The F1 is progressing through the paint shop. Frames are being reassembled.

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But the body needs striping and repainting. The only thing I can think of is the thinners was wrong. Everything else was the same as all the other recent paint jobs.

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There's me thinking it would be good to get the mojo flying by completing something. Plain black simples. But quite pleased in a way it was on this. I nearly masked up the others to spray buffers etc. Now that would of been a major disaster.
, Having to strip and repaint 3.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Moving on with the Maunsell composite. After measuring, I am now confused of Brazil. The diagram 2302 is an 8'6" body, but the body will end up 61.5mm not 60.2mm as it should be. Diagram 2301 is 9' wide (63mm). So it will come out somewhere between the two. That I think leaves with a choice from either diagram. But not sure whether it would look better being slightly narrow for R4 or slightly wide for R1.

What is the kit origin and is it intended to be part of a set?

Be confused no longer ;).

My suggestion would be to build it as diag 2302 (8'6'' R1) four first and three third class compartments. If the kit allows I would shave 0.5 mm from the sides of each end. It's better to have the correct coach rather than an a halfway house which would stick out like a sore thumb if run with Slaters 9' Maunsell or ex SECR/LBSC/LSWR 8' stock.

These (built 1929) 8'6'' composites (5602 to 5633) ran in sets initially allocated to the Eastern (London - Folkestone and Deal; London - Ramsgate) and Central (London - Eastbourne) sections. After the Eastbourne electrification in 1933 the Central section sets were transferred to the Eastern section.

At this time some shuffling of the sets was carried out resulting in some of the composite becoming loose carriages and I can find the numbers for these depending on the period being modelled. It's also worth noting the roof board brackets were located below the single rainstrip.

For R4 9' stock I'd stick with Slaters.

I trust this assists.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave. That was one of the options I was looking at.
It's was for me but I decided otherwise. This will be sold on, so will probably be in BR livery.

I will probably get a Slaters for a P set. But thinking more of liking an ironclad E set. For that I need to find some 9 foot bogies, I think they are SECR ones as they were built early SR.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Peter,

Scratchbuilding Ironclads eh? I shall be interested to see how you get on. If you need 9' VS bogies for the vehicles you want to do, then GWR 9' plate bogies are pretty close, IIRC. The 8' SR bogies are the ex-SECR design - I think the 9' design was just an inside-out version of the outside-framed LSWR bogie used under most Ironclads. Some even had the SECR/SR Maunsell/Lynes SR 8' 'steam' bogie...

Peter Cowling's list might help for odd parts.

Steph
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Peter,

Scratchbuilding Ironclads eh? I shall be interested to see how you get on. If you need 9' VS bogies for the vehicles you want to do, then GWR 9' plate bogies are pretty close, IIRC. The 8' SR bogies are the ex-SECR design - I think the 9' design was just an inside-out version of the outside-framed LSWR bogie used under most Ironclads. Some even had the SECR/SR Maunsell/Lynes SR 8' 'steam' bogie...

Peter Cowling's list might help for odd parts.

Steph

Thanks Steph.
I think it will have to be scratchbuilt the Jenkins on way in plasticard. I didn't realize the VS bogies were basically the dreadnaughts. Will have a closer look now I know. If the GWR plates are close, it's a good starting point. I expect they're easier to get.
I did know the ironclads had the 3
Typed fitted bug I'm sure the brake 3rd and brake composites in the E sets were the 9'VS.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
I agree the GWR 9' Plate is a reasonable representation of the SR VS Bogie once the characteristic GWR axlebox covers have been altered. It was a bogie type I looked at some yeas ago as a more palatable alternative to the ugly dreadnaught type, but in the end I didn't go ahead with patterns.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Most LSWR stock was on variations of the 'Fox' (Leeds Forge, IIRC) 8' bogie, so you only really need the Dreadnaughts for the Ironclads, although some slightly earlier dining cars had an 8' version.

Steph
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
I think I have got to the bottom of the F1 brake hangar issue. I have just been packing the similar N4/5 kits. There is a supplementary etch with alternate spectacle plate that was available on demand. That etch appears to have the correct hangars on it. I'll be packing this as standard.
David
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
The F1 is back to brass. Have refilled the few bits that needed doing, along with a couple of resolder jobs due to heavy handed paint striping. It's now ready for a good clean and then re prime.

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The Maunsell composite is moving slowly. I've started the body while I figure out where to with the underframe. The sides have an inner that almost reaches the bottom, and the door droplights fit inside this, and once the bolection is added the window apertures are cleaned up. So far I've done the doorstops on the corridor side and used these to align the inner side. So far have only had time to fix 2 stoplights and 2 bolection, will work along doing door hinges as go. Not looking forward to the copartcompa side, with all those doors and bolections.

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Hopefully I will get quicker as I go. Or I will be really bored by the end.
 
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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Finally got the F1 into a black overcoat. It's been a struggle and not high gloss as it's supposed to be. I think this was using a new spray gun and not used to its controls. And possible the pressure was to high. I did have to do a little remedial work on foot plate after first coat of black. I managed to get some muck on it.

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The corridor side of the composite just needs the door hinges filing to length I'll do this once I have the ends on and I'm happy with the shape of everything. Started the compartment side, think this will take a while longer. Have also started on the ends to try and relieve some of the boredom.

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Time to press on, I need to step up my game and get something finished.
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Coaches are very repetitive. Plus I've not made many. So it's keep looking at pictures, and for a first full sized etch brass carriage I don't think it's up to the standard of modern ones. No instructions doesn't help either.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I can empathize with boredom when building or painting in 0 gauge. Taking a day to build one pair of LMS bogies with brake gear put me off straight away... :rolleyes:

I did quite enjoy building and painting my LCDR 6 wheeler - this being my first brass kit coach in 7mm. I've yet to build a bogie coach though...
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
I agree with the sentiments about coaches, but put a brass kit alongside an RTR coach body and the kit wins every time. I would, however like to use RTR bogies if they were available as the kit bogies are indeed a pain!
 
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