Peteb's Finney 7 drummond M7

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by PeteB, 18 March 2019.

  1. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    I ate a couple of bars of that stuff once, felt oh so sick never to return.

    I've made a little progress with the pull-push mech. The intermediate link was next.
    I cut a right angle 1mm wide from 0.018" ns sheet and put the bend in and the hole for the pivot. DSC_1255.JPG

    As I'm working from Brian's splendid photo I'm having to guess the dimensions and the place to mount onto the boiler back.
    Took quite a bit of time and two attempts before I was happy. DSC_1257.JPG
    Next was a bush to go between the link and the boiler back. I made the shaft from a pin (I do like my pins, they work so well) Hexing the head, then with a scalpel cut away the top so that it looks like a nut. I ended up crossed eyed!!!!
    Now to see if it all fits. DSC_1260.JPG
    Thought I'd add the rest just to see how it looks.
    Ok I think that works :cool: Well happy.
    Now it's on to the links. The one from the shaft which enters the cab and attaches to the intermediate link is, I think, straight forward. An adjustable rod with fork ends.
    It's the link between the intermediate and the regulator, that's the tricky one as there are no pics of it. So I thought a fork end at the inter end with a rod that screws into a ns square rod and filled down to a tongue to fit into the regulator slot.
    I hope that makes sense. If anyone has a better idea, then speak up.

    Pete :)
  2. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Agreed - just watch the angles on the various links, I've been trying to work it out in detail here and think the angles should be constant for it all to work. So, I think the intermediate crank needs rotating a little anti-clockwise so the position of the arm matches the regulator - you have the regulator in the right position for it to be closed.

  3. Genghis

    Genghis Western Thunderer

    Very nice work.
    PeteB likes this.
  4. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Thank you Genghis.

    Steph thanks for that info, now I know where the reg should be in stop position I can work back. Nothing is fixed yet and everything moves, including the regulator, so I might try to made the mechanism work!!!!

    Deano747 likes this.
  5. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    I now have to work out how the link between the intermediate and the regulator looks like, and as there are no photos of said link...…….
    I've had a couple of attempts, bearing in mind, this is work in progress.
    Attempt 1;
    Not happy with this as the end just doesn't do it. I could make the base smaller, and maybe round instead of square. I really think this isn't the way forward, and it did take a while and a lot of filling. I made it out of 3mm square rod.

    Attempt 2;
    I think his looks far better. Just flattened the end of a 0.7mm rod. So it's between the one above or the one below.
    Unless anyone has a better idea I'm going with attempt 2.
    Answers on a postcard!!!!

    Also the locating pivot on the regulator, from all the photos I can find, there looks like some kind of pin with a rectangle on the end. Again any ideas ?

    mswjr, Rob Pulham, dibateg and 6 others like this.
  6. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Progress as been made on the link between the reg and the intermediate link. As I said, I'm going with attempt two.
    First made a jig to solder fork end and nuts in place.
    The nuts are 16ba drilled out to 0.7mm to slide onto shaft, then sanded down to make them thinner. I used the old sand paper, nut and finger method. Does tend to wear one's finger tip down too!!!! but needs must.
    And finished.
    Then fitted on boiler back to check fit.
    Not totally happy as I think it could have been a little bit longer, but I thought it probably wouldn't be noticed once it's fitted in the cab.
    Things sometime happen that gives you a second chance (and more work) to put right. When I tried to solder the fork end pin in place on the inter link I got a total melt down and it all fell apart :rant: so a new fork end was constructed and a slightly longer one.
    The next thing to do was to work out the assembly order. Nothing fixed yet, but at least I now know the order.


    Still some fettling to be done, but all seems to fit and clear of fouling pipes etc.

    The next step is the link between the shaft from the regulator operating cyl and the inter link. I think I've worked out how, just waiting for a 16ba tap from Eileen. Then hopefully everything will move.

    While I'm waiting I have to make slots in the two tool boxes in the cab, so they can become the drain cock levers. Will also need to remove all traces of the lids and hinges. Would have been much easier before assembly but as a newby I hadn't planed that far ahead!!!!
    Every day a school day.

    mswjr, Deano747, P A D and 6 others like this.
  7. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I hope the guy who bought pull push fitted M7 I built does not send it back wanting the cab linkage putting right.

    Coming on nicely Pete. 2 months and I can get my hands on my Finney7 M7. It's sat sitting at my daughter's.
    PeteB likes this.
  8. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Good stuff I reckon. The way you've done that matches with my interpretation of the photos and other info.

    PeteB likes this.
  9. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Thanks Peter

    Have you made up your mind as to which M7 you're going to build and will it have the pull-push?
  10. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Blimey, I just posted to Peter when you popped up!!! Thank you Steph. I'm glad I'm on the same song sheet!!
  11. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I haven't got a number as yet. No pull push on my M7 I'm leaving that for an O2. Which will be in charge of a pair of gated 48 foot carriages.
    PeteB likes this.
  12. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Hi all.
    It's been awhile but had so many other things on the go hadn't been able to spend the time in my sane room.
    At last I've finished the push-pull linkage in the cab. I wanted it to work so it took a little more time than expected to finish.
    These are the components for the cab end of the input shaft. I put a 14ba thread into the end of a length of 1.4mm tube. (the tube runs along the top of the right hand tank to the regulator linkage and this tube will be fixed) The second piece of tube I bored out half way so it would slid over the first tube then put a 14ba thread in the other half. A 14ba thread in the linkage arm also.
    And bolted together.
    I don't need much travel and as it turned out I had more than enough. I soldered the screw in place then filed the screw head flush.

    That's all of the components finished. I did remake the intermediate link and the link between it and the input shaft. They just didn't look right, but now I'm happy, it's on with the assembly.
    Now all fitted up and painted. I also noticed a slight bend in regulator lever on all of the pics, so very gingerly, it was added too.
    Now in situ and in the stop position. DSC_1341.JPG
    Chugging along.
    Full chat.
    All finished except the fire door, which is being painted.
    I'm going to let the copper pipes tarnish a little bit more then lacquer them.

    I have also soldered over the toolbox markings and cut the slots for the levers. I know the left hand one is for the drain cocks, but I don't know what the other two are for.
    Also where does the lever on the cab side pivot? You can just see it in Brian's pic on page one but I can't see where it pivots. I'm guessing just under the floor, but what dose it do/connected to?

    The next dilemma is cab doors. Open or closed, closed or open...…. Unless I can have my cake and eat it, I do have an idea.

    mswjr, chrisb, P A D and 6 others like this.
  13. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Are you sure there's a handle behind the reverser on the LHS? I think the two on the RHS are for the sanders and draincocks. I'll have to see what references I have available...

    There are also going to be injector water shut-off valves around there somewhere.

  14. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Steph, You can see the LHS lever in your Dad's pic and you can just about make out the inner RHS lever. It does look as though it goes though the floor. I have found two pics on the net which show all three, but as always not from the view you want!!!! I can't work out how to share the pics, so I took a pic from my screen. DSC_1356.JPG
    Not sure about the drain cock font. Just so little to go on heyho.

    paulc likes this.
  15. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Oh, I forgot, what's that valve assembly on the far side of the cab?
  16. paulc

    paulc Active Member

    Hi Peter , lovely work but you haven't included the mugs , tea , for the use of .:rolleyes:
    Cheers Paul
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  17. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Thank you Paul. They will be added, promise ;)
  18. Dave Holt

    Dave Holt Active Member

    Looks like a small sight feed lubricator, very similar to the one fitted to the L&B replica 2-6-2 tank, Lyd, based at the Ffestiniog Railway and shown below. In you photo, there is a condensing coil in the corner of the roof, not present on Lyd.

    Last edited: 13 June 2019
    PeteB likes this.
  19. PeteB

    PeteB Active Member

    Thank you Dave, so that's what it is, so what does it do and where do the pipes go to. Also where do I get one from? I've looked on Laurie Griffin and ragstone's sites to no avail.

    More progress. The cab doors.
    I tried several ways of making hinges, but none worked owning to the fact of the size, ie smaller than small. Then I had a light bulb moment, followed my KISS (not the rock band) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !!!!
    I made a door and floor out of scrap brass to test the concept, seemed to work ok.

    Two holes needed to be drilled from the underside, so the measurements had to be spot on, no second attempt. Because of the restricted access from above with the cab sides it had to be from down under.
    Holes where 1.2mm and two 5mm lengths of tube soldered in place.
    and a little proud on the top
    I then drill then out to 0.8mm. As you can see, they had to be as close to the tool box as poss. I couldn't get then any closer to the edge because of the lip on the floor end.
    Next the doors. In the trail run I used brass rod, but wasn't strong enough just kept bending, so I found a 0.8mm steel rod instead. I also decided to remake the doors as the ones in the kit were not man enough. I also used a piece of the tank top beading (a choice within the kit) for the door top.
    To insure the steel soldered to the brass, I used a flame to get the rod hot. Also I laid the doors outside down so I could get a small bias towards the outside. Finished with the beading. Then filled/sanded flat.
    Now in place.
    DSC_1345.JPG Closed
    DSC_1346.JPG Open
    DSC_1347.JPG DSC_1348.JPG Still needs a bit of finishing and then painted. Also they can be removed of course.
    See I can have my cake etc.

    Next was to fit the chimney. Looking at photos you can see it was fitted with rivets around the base. So I made up a template in order to get the spacing right.
    Drilled the holes to 0.6mm then stuck the chimney in place using an epoxy glue. Once dried I then drill the holes into the smokebox, then glued the rivets into place.

    Just the smokebox door to fit and a few odds and sods then a massive clean up and into the paint shop.

    Getting close now

  20. paulc

    paulc Active Member

    Hi Pete , looking at the side shot of the cab in post 79 , are the cab handrails going to be a bit close together . I looked at the photo on your post of the real thing and there is a large gap between the body and the handrail but your gap looks larger . Hopefully I'm wrong as it looks like it may be a pain to re drill the holes .
    Cheers Paul