7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Like Adrian, I quite fancy building one of these too. I was wondering though, if the smokebox/boiler/firebox/tank assembly is designed to be removable (or adaptable to be made so), in order to aid painting? I was thinking that the tank overhangs might be make painting the footplate a bit awkward.
Great job so far Mick, but it's made me want one even more now, especially since seeing a friend's recently completed MOK 14xx last week....
Regards
Dan
Great job so far Mick, but it's made me want one even more now, especially since seeing a friend's recently completed MOK 14xx last week....
Regards
Dan
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Dan, you could, but you'd need some extra fixings under the smoke box unit and the cab front face. You'd also need some sort of support for the rear end of the boiler belly plate. It is possible and I did consider it, but then decided to just build it back up as originally intended. It shouldn't be a problem if painted in black all over, might be if you opted for a green version.
Larry, the original cost was significantly below the cost of a new kit, plus it already had an ABC motor gearbox combo. Even when you add the cost of the new etches and extra man hours, it still works out significantly cheaper in the long run. The chassis is okay except for a few bent guard irons (one missing and added to the replacement etch sheet), some scuffed paint and seriously worn connecting rods (also on replacement etch sheet); the compensation beams are also seized. Therefore I expect very little work on the chassis to get it running.
Mike, swapping the tanks would only move the issue from one side to the other, besides there are cast support lumps on the base to line up with the footplate support brackets, if swapped left to right these would be out of position.
I suspect once the cab is firmly secured then the left hand tank will fit just fine, the right hand one has been hacked by the original builder; it wont take much to add a sliver of brass or even Plasticard to close the gap up.
Peter, good analogy, but unlike Barry, all my parts are here.....most of them
Larry, the original cost was significantly below the cost of a new kit, plus it already had an ABC motor gearbox combo. Even when you add the cost of the new etches and extra man hours, it still works out significantly cheaper in the long run. The chassis is okay except for a few bent guard irons (one missing and added to the replacement etch sheet), some scuffed paint and seriously worn connecting rods (also on replacement etch sheet); the compensation beams are also seized. Therefore I expect very little work on the chassis to get it running.
Mike, swapping the tanks would only move the issue from one side to the other, besides there are cast support lumps on the base to line up with the footplate support brackets, if swapped left to right these would be out of position.
I suspect once the cab is firmly secured then the left hand tank will fit just fine, the right hand one has been hacked by the original builder; it wont take much to add a sliver of brass or even Plasticard to close the gap up.
Peter, good analogy, but unlike Barry, all my parts are here.....most of them
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Dan,
The tanks are soldered to an inside frame and not removable as built.
I had no problem spraying the body with them in place
Edit: apologies for thread hijack
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick.
Regards
Dan
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Dan,
The tanks are soldered to an inside frame and not removable as built.
I had no problem spraying the body with them in place
I fancy a 74xx just like yours, so that's good to know - thanks Mr G.
Regards
Dan
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Dan,
I fancy a 74xx just like yours, so that's good to know - thanks Mr G.
Regards
Dan
If you order the kit as a 7400 variant, be aware that Dave hasn’t changed the site of the plunger pickups for the smaller diameter wheels. He did make me some disks to solder in the redundant plunger holes after I mentioned it to him. Also the balance weights are the wrong diameter and shape for the wheels and you will need a reversing lever for the cab. Having said all that, it was a lovely model to build as was the 1400.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Mr G, can you remember, or have a photo, of the firebox top, on this one here there is a recess in the tank top plating onto which the safety valve bonnet and whistle have been mounted, yet on the real engine it appears that the firebox cladding is actually higher here. Certainly the cab front detail overlay profile also suggests a raised section above the tank top plate level.
Is there a casting to add in that area or has it simply been missed off the kit. I don't have anything so will end up making something to represent the raised firebox cladding anyway, but it'd be good to know one way or another.
Is there a casting to add in that area or has it simply been missed off the kit. I don't have anything so will end up making something to represent the raised firebox cladding anyway, but it'd be good to know one way or another.
daifly
Western Thunderer
Richard - I presume you mean that the chassis is designed for the 54xx which has 5’2” wheels rather than the 4’7” wheels of the 64xx & 74xx classes. As you suggest, there are a number of differences to sort out between the 64xx kit and a 74xx build.
Dave
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Mick,
I believe the triangular casting behind the chimney was supplied as a casting, is that the one you mean?
Here’s some shots that may help. Also showing how the tanks were originally supported
Edit: just read your post properly
the plating lifts behind the safety valve and there is a small rectangular box casting added adjacent to the whistles.Regards Richard
Last edited:
daifly
Western Thunderer
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Richard,
Cheers, it's the firebox top that I think is wrong, you should be able to see the raised cladding on top of the firebox along with two boiler/firebox bands and some washout plug covers. The safety valve bonnet and whistle sit higher than the tank top platework by a good few inches on top of the raised firebox cladding, I'll try and find a decent photo later.
The chimney should also be fitted underneath the tank top plate and there is a small circular gap around the chimney base where it protrudes through. Problem is, the MOK etch is one piece and the hole is the right size but the chimney base is larger and won't pass through. You would need to split the front section into two halves that fit either side of the chimney. I'll try and mock that up this evening to explain a bit better.
The photos are a great help, I do not have the casting behind the chimney or the one on the firebox top by the cab, I'll have to fabricate those.
Cheers, it's the firebox top that I think is wrong, you should be able to see the raised cladding on top of the firebox along with two boiler/firebox bands and some washout plug covers. The safety valve bonnet and whistle sit higher than the tank top platework by a good few inches on top of the raised firebox cladding, I'll try and find a decent photo later.
The chimney should also be fitted underneath the tank top plate and there is a small circular gap around the chimney base where it protrudes through. Problem is, the MOK etch is one piece and the hole is the right size but the chimney base is larger and won't pass through. You would need to split the front section into two halves that fit either side of the chimney. I'll try and mock that up this evening to explain a bit better.
The photos are a great help, I do not have the casting behind the chimney or the one on the firebox top by the cab, I'll have to fabricate those.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
This is the clearest I can find, and probably the smallest!
The firebox clearly extends above the tank top level.
On Larrys screen grab you can also see the front firebox band and cleat to secure it.
I don't think the MOK kit replicates this feature, but not seeing an original or sight of any instructions I can't say for sure.
The firebox clearly extends above the tank top level.
On Larrys screen grab you can also see the front firebox band and cleat to secure it.
I don't think the MOK kit replicates this feature, but not seeing an original or sight of any instructions I can't say for sure.
SimonT
Western Thunderer
I would be very wary of the second of these photos. The washout plug covers are very wrong. They should be as in the first photo, flatish plates hinged at the inside, not domes. None of the B&W photos in my library give a slam dunk result.
Is this image a case of a firebox cover plate being missing? I suspect that it only extends vertically by about half an inch. This also shows a plate with a large 'fixing/knob' in front of the tank cross brace that is missing in the first colour image but present in the second. There are also differences in the top feed pipe routing! Good job that it is all Swindon standard!
Simon
The image is displayed for education and discussion.
Is this image a case of a firebox cover plate being missing? I suspect that it only extends vertically by about half an inch. This also shows a plate with a large 'fixing/knob' in front of the tank cross brace that is missing in the first colour image but present in the second. There are also differences in the top feed pipe routing! Good job that it is all Swindon standard!
Simon
The image is displayed for education and discussion.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Simon, cheers, it was the preservation image that prompted me to ask, it could, as you suggest, be post BR changes.
I've not found a definitive image from BR days that shows the area in detail, all acute angles so best guessing at the moment.
I'll need to add the flat plates, should of realised that before sending the etch sheet off
I've not found a definitive image from BR days that shows the area in detail, all acute angles so best guessing at the moment.
I'll need to add the flat plates, should of realised that before sending the etch sheet off