Ian_C's workbench - P4 and S7 allsorts

Discussion in 'Workbenches, including workshop techniques.' started by Ian_C, 21 May 2017.

  1. Ian_C

    Ian_C Western Thunderer

    I modelled happily for years in 4mm without any power tools or machine tools. You just go about things in a way that suits your capabilities. I've been a relatively late adopter. Started with an old Hobbycraft lathe which wasn't much used. It was the urge to have a go at 7mm that really steered me to machine tools. It seems to me that 7mm is a cross over point between model making and model engineering and there's more value in having such tools at that scale and bigger. And once you have lathe or a mill/drill you find it enables you to do stuff you'd never have contemplated before. If you've been thinking about it I'd encourage you to have a go.
    D G Williams, Rob Pulham and Dog Star like this.
  2. Threadmark: The Silvertown lubricators

    Ian_C Western Thunderer

    There were two Silvertown lubricators on the RH framing of most 8Fs, the exceptions being the LNER built locos which were fitted with Wakefield lubricators. The forward lubricator had 6 outlets each side for cylinder lubrication and the rearmost had 4 outlets each side for axle box lubrication. Brass castings for the appropriate Silvertown lubricators are supplied in the MOK kit. They're not bad castings and with a bit of work they clean up OK. The small pipe unions are represented on the castings but they're very close together and get a little unresolved during the casting process. All overcome with optimism I tried to drill the unions to take 0.3mm wire, but nothing doing. The cast brass is dead hard and the shape and spacing of the cast unions was a bit statistical.

    The unions were filed off the castings and 0.8mm holes were drilled though in their place.
    castings drilled.jpg

    The outside diameter of the unions scaled to about 0.8mm and I intend to use 0.3mm copper wire (from cutting up a short length of electrical flex) for the pipes. Microbore brass tube from Albion alloys was used in two sizes to make new pipe unions. One tube was 0.8mm x 0.4mm, the other 0.5mm x 0.3mm.
    small tubes.jpg

    By drilling out short lengths of the 0.8mm x 0.4mm to a diameter of 0.5mm it was possible to insert a corresponding length of 0.5mm x 0.3mm tube to make a tube effectively 0.8mm x 0.3mm. The tubes were silver soldered together, taking care not to bung up the 0.3mm hole with solder, and trimmed to a length that left enough sticking out of each side of the lubricator casting.
    more tubes.jpg

    Approximate hexagons were filed on each end of the tubes to represent the pipe fittings before they were silver soldered into the castings. A casting is shown here on a ceramic honeycomb plate. The casting is held steady by stainless steel tapered pins dropped into holes in the plate. It's a jewellery making thing that I came across when I was buying silver solder a few posts ago. I find it very useful.
    set up to solder.jpg

    0.3mm wire is passed through the tubes to represent the oil pipes. A couple of tubes needed easing open with a 0.35mm drill before the wire would pass through. I do wonder if using the two tube diameters was worth the trouble, and possibly just the 0.8m x 0.4mm tube would have done the job without the wire looking to wonky. The cast priming handles are a bit chunky and I thinned the ends a little - still too thick, but I didn't fancy making any finer ones from strips of brass. The wire was soldered in with tiny slivers of 145 solder. lubricators and pipes.jpg

    The arrangement of the pipes varies between locos. On some locos the pipes remain at the height of the unions as they turn inboard towards the inside edge of the framing before dropping down to the framing and over the edge between the mainframes. On other locos the pipes drop from the unions down to the framing first before turning inboard. The earlier locos seemed to have all the pipes high initially. Some later locos had all the pipes low. From photos most locos seem to have a mixture of the two styles- the pipes between the two lubricators dropping down first and the pipes on the front of the front lubricator and the rear of the rear lubricator staying high before dropping down. I imagine that it all got a bit mixed up as locos were overhauled and some pipes replaced. The photo of 48142 seems to show the inside pipes low and outsides high, so that's what I've attempted to model. The pipes were arranged and trimmed on the bench before the lubricators were sweated onto the footplate with 145 solder.
    lubricators assembled 2.jpg
    lubricators assembled 1.jpg

    They're not perfect and I've seen them done better in 7mm, but they'll do for me. And in the end this is a 1966 8F (Paint it black , Rolling Stones was in the charts - seems appropriate for an 8F) so there'll be plenty of crud on the framing from spilled oil and sand.

    Attached Files:

    P A D, Phil O, Rob Pulham and 11 others like this.
  3. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    That does look like a useful help for silver soldering. Do you have a link? - I've tried and failed to find anything similar on my usual suppliers.
  4. Nick Rogers

    Nick Rogers Active Member

    Hi Ian,

    I have thoroughly enjoyed reading through your thread. Your work is brilliant! Proper modelling. It puts mine to shame!

    Best wishes,

  5. Brian McKenzie

    Brian McKenzie Western Thunderer

    Googling "ceramic honeycomb soldering block" brings up a good selection.

    Also refer michl080's thread, Michaels 7mm LMS 13ton mineral wagon (MMP kit), messages 5 and 24.

    -Brian McK.

    edit: correct spelling "michl080"
    Last edited: 19 April 2019 at 20:47
  6. Ian_C

    Ian_C Western Thunderer

    Osgood, chrisb and adrian like this.
  7. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    Hi Ian,
    Love the work on the lubricators and all the other parts you have scratched up earlier in the thread. The Stanier 2 6 4 has two big Silvertown lubricators so I'll be doing something similar with the pipes and unions.
  8. LarryG

    LarryG Western Thunderer

    Very well done. I'm an admirer of good modelling and engineering as displayed on this and other WT threads. Fine 'plumbing' can be shown off to advantage and when I painted locos with such detail, I made sure it was kept bright and free of paint. Sadly in reality, it was so often the case in steam days that all that good work would be a blob of muck.
  9. Phil O

    Phil O Western Thunderer

    It could do with an agree button.

    That's the thing with steam engines, oil and grease attracts all the other crud, which sticks to it.
  10. Threadmark: Endless boiler - atomiser steam cock cover

    Ian_C Western Thunderer

    Here's another part that really needs something better than the supplied casting. This is the odd shaped cover that is fitted over the atomiser steam supply cock up on the LH side of the smoke box. At first sight you'd think it's a half teardrop, but it's not. It's hard to describe the shape, sort of a truncated cone with tapered tail. The shape and size can be worked out from the supremely useful C32522 Pipe & Rod arrangement drawing in the Wild Swan book. Worth noting that the early straight throat plate boilers had a different cover here, quite a bit longer and a very different in shape. I can't see what they bothered to fit a cover at all. Both ends of the valve are exposed by cutouts in the cover so it's practically offering no protection to the only parts that are likely to need protection. And why streamlined? Obviously improves the airflow in the critical chimney flange area - or something. Here's a way of making one...

    atomiser cover.jpg

    1. Machine a strip of 1/8" brass to the required thickness , 2.46 mm as it happens. Mark out the basic outline, scribing quite deeply because the marks will need to survive some silver soldering.
    2. Partly drill through the blank diameter 2 mm. Saw around the blank leaving plenty of spare material, and silver solder a length of 2mm brass rod in the hole. The rod is a very handy way of holding the part to work on it, and once shortened it's a useful spigot for locating the finished part on the model.
    3. Held in a vice and basic facets filed on.
    4. Filed up to the marked lines to form the basic outline.
    5. Bit of a scruffy photo, but here the chamfer for the truncated cone shape and the tapered tail is marked on, having blacked it all over with marker pen first.
    6. More filing of facets, taking care not to nibble away at the bottom edge. Here's where the black marker helps. If you leave a tiny sliver of black on the lower edge you know that you've not altered the basic shape when you file the chamfer.
    7. The whole lot is blended together. Getting there now.
    8. The tapered tail and the top edges are blended now. For comparison the cast cover is shown alongside. It's much smaller and not close to the correct shape.
    9. Here's a tricky part, making a representation of the cut outs. The 2mm rod is held in a tiny toolmakers vice which is held in a much bigger machine vice. The cutout scales to about 1.3mm wide. The nearest milling cutter I have is 1.5mm diameter so that'll have to do. The milling machine usually carries an ER32 collet chuck, but so I can actually see what I'm doing on this job I'm using an ER11 chuck that runs very true, which is a blessing when using small cutters.
    10. Positioned by eyeball and DRO the first cut out is made to the correct height. Tiny depth of cut, slow feed rate and plenty of patience get the job done.
    11. Now we have a flat surface and the spindle is on centre a 0.9 mm hole can be drilled right through. The cover is turned over, repositioned and the opposite cut out is made the same way.
    12. A small fitting was turned to represent the steam cock, or at least the bits that are visible through the cutouts in the cover. One end is drilled 0.6mm to accept the steam pipe.
    13. To make things more difficult there's a flange on the cover. I wondered whether to attempt the flange, but decided to got for it. the centre of the fitting was marked on the smoke box and drilled 2.0mm. A piece of brass shim was cut and curved to sit neatly on the smoke box. When it all sat down without big gaps the shim and the cover were removed and silver soldered together along with the valve turning.
    14. The excess shim was snipped off and carefully filed to shape around the cover. An attempt was made to represent the fixing screw heads by poking the flange from behind with a scriber. Partially successful. The flange is nicely annealed after silver soldering so it's very easy to put the fitting in place on the smoke box and gently press the flange down with the end of a cocktail stick to make it sit down tight.
    15. The completed cover was sweated to the smokebox with 145 solder and the steam pipe added from 0.6mm wire.
    We're not done with the boiler fittings yet...
  11. Scale7JB

    Scale7JB Western Thunderer

    Serious amount of skill and experience there!