Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
The wooden one was not on all tenders I believe. The big one I also believe had gone or mostly gone by SR days.
Finney 7 Adam's T3 4-4-0
- Thread starter P A D
- Start date
Crimson Rambler
Western Thunderer
I suspect the original tool box was the large one at the rear of the tender but regulations introduced by the Board of Trade in 1902 required that tool boxes were accessible (safely) by enginemen while the engine was in motion. The railway companies were given time to comply. For example R M Deeley issued a circular to Midland district locomotive superintendents on 6th July 1904 requiring 'All fixed tool boxes on backs of tenders must be put out of use before 8th August 1904'. Later on the Midland tool boxes on the backs of tenders were removed.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks chaps.
Or it could be that as Tim Watson mentioned, they broke down a lot so the boxes were full of spares and spanners!
Here's a view under the frame sub section showing the added piece of waste fret to provide greater support to the vacuum brake pipe when glued in after painting.
Moving on to the coping, after curving the two sides and rear using bending bars, the rear was added first. To facilitate fitting the parts in the correct position, two simple jigs are provided. They are tacked soldered to either end of the tank plates and the coping then slots into place and is set at the correct height. This is then tack soldered and the jigs removed for use with the next piece.
Here the left hand coping has been tacked in place before removing the jigs and tack soldering them to the other side.
Finally, the three parts are fully soldered along their lengths, the corners infilled with solder and all is then scraped and scratched brushed to clean up.
And from t'other side.
And from the rear. The remaining lamp iron and bracket can then be added to the top edge of the coping.
Here's the tank filler after fitting in place. It's a mix of etchings for the base plate and lid, and white metal for the tube.
At the front end the footplate furniture has been added along with the coal space door. For the door, two optional parts are supplied. One for the closed position and one for the open, which is fitted below the ledge. The open door just has the rivets without the straps and I laminated the two before fitting, so that the inner face did not show the dimples from the strap rivets.
And a view from the inside.
On the frame subsection the intermediate dummy buffers have been added.
Here are the three sub sections.
And some views after screwing it all together.
The grab rails and vacuum brake pipe are a firm sliding fit in the locating holes and after positioning can be super glued on the inside to secure without risk of damage to the paint.
At the front the handrails are just slotted into place for the photo.
That's it until I return from holiday at the end of the month when one more session should see it ready for the painter.
Cheers,
Peter
Or it could be that as Tim Watson mentioned, they broke down a lot so the boxes were full of spares and spanners!
Here's a view under the frame sub section showing the added piece of waste fret to provide greater support to the vacuum brake pipe when glued in after painting.
Moving on to the coping, after curving the two sides and rear using bending bars, the rear was added first. To facilitate fitting the parts in the correct position, two simple jigs are provided. They are tacked soldered to either end of the tank plates and the coping then slots into place and is set at the correct height. This is then tack soldered and the jigs removed for use with the next piece.
Here the left hand coping has been tacked in place before removing the jigs and tack soldering them to the other side.
Finally, the three parts are fully soldered along their lengths, the corners infilled with solder and all is then scraped and scratched brushed to clean up.
And from t'other side.
And from the rear. The remaining lamp iron and bracket can then be added to the top edge of the coping.
Here's the tank filler after fitting in place. It's a mix of etchings for the base plate and lid, and white metal for the tube.
At the front end the footplate furniture has been added along with the coal space door. For the door, two optional parts are supplied. One for the closed position and one for the open, which is fitted below the ledge. The open door just has the rivets without the straps and I laminated the two before fitting, so that the inner face did not show the dimples from the strap rivets.
And a view from the inside.
On the frame subsection the intermediate dummy buffers have been added.
Here are the three sub sections.
And some views after screwing it all together.
The grab rails and vacuum brake pipe are a firm sliding fit in the locating holes and after positioning can be super glued on the inside to secure without risk of damage to the paint.
At the front the handrails are just slotted into place for the photo.
That's it until I return from holiday at the end of the month when one more session should see it ready for the painter.
Cheers,
Peter
Last edited:
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
Looks impressive Peter, did the tender not carry another two lamps sockets?
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Peter,
Many thanks. It will be finished in original condition so the lamp irons are correct.
Cheers,
Peter
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
That will look rather nice then in full lining. Big box at back is essential then.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Some further views from the last session at the bench. This one shows the wooden tool box in position in the bunker. Hopefully the owner won't want it to be added, as it looks hideous on this very elegant prototype.
This view shows the gap between the loco and tender when coupled with the shorter drawbar. The dummy buffers are hard up against the drag beam on the loco so in this configuration it will not go around any curves. I failed to test it on the curves before adding the buffers so it may be OK if they are removed. Alternatively, the longer drawbar may provide the required clearance but I'll check with the owner as to how to proceed.
Some views with the loco and tender. First a view of the cab with the back plate and reverser in position.
Cheers,
Peter
This view shows the gap between the loco and tender when coupled with the shorter drawbar. The dummy buffers are hard up against the drag beam on the loco so in this configuration it will not go around any curves. I failed to test it on the curves before adding the buffers so it may be OK if they are removed. Alternatively, the longer drawbar may provide the required clearance but I'll check with the owner as to how to proceed.
Some views with the loco and tender. First a view of the cab with the back plate and reverser in position.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
After seeing Dikitriki's solution to the rear frames protruding into the cab, I decided to follow his method as it facilitates easier removal and fitting of the chassis and body. This would have been better done in the flat, but was not too difficult even at this late stage. A vertical cut was made with the piercing saw at the end of the half etch line in the frames and the protruding parts snapped off and cleaned up.
The frame pieces were then soldered into the gaps between the cab floor and inner face of the cab splashers.
And from the underside. I cut the frame pieces back at the front to allow easier fitting of the back plate after painting.
Leaving the safety valve lever loose doesn't offer any advantage during painting so it was soldered into the cab slot and super glued to the safety valve cover.
My brother spotted that CPL had their cab dials available again, so I picked up a set at Telford for the LSWR and SR. Here they are glued to the brass etches. These will be glued into place on the cab front after painting and the pipes routed to their relative fittings on the back plate.
The coupling hooks only have a short stub for fitting to the buffer beam, so I added a length of 12 BA bolt to allow them to be bolted in place after painting. However, if was a real faff getting the nut on and tightening it up on the loco, so for the tender, I lengthened the stub by soldering on a length of waste fret to allow fitting with a spring and pin. I then remembered that there were two hooks on the loco fret so I did the samd on the loco.
To increase the surface area between the buffer beam and the spigot on the safety chain eyelets, a small "square" of waste fret was soldered inside each buffer beam and the holes were drilled through. This will allow the eyelets to be glued in place after painting.
Here are the chains temporarily in place on the tender along with the coupling. The chains were made from 0.6mm nickel silver rod.
That just left the tender axle boxes and springs to finish things off. As these will be black and the frames green and lined out in Adam's livery, they will also be fitted after painting. Here they are after fettling up and push fit into the holes in the frames.
I'll put the loco back together with all the loose items fitted to take a photo of the finished build, then it's off to Warren Haywood for painting.
Cheers,
Peter
The frame pieces were then soldered into the gaps between the cab floor and inner face of the cab splashers.
And from the underside. I cut the frame pieces back at the front to allow easier fitting of the back plate after painting.
Leaving the safety valve lever loose doesn't offer any advantage during painting so it was soldered into the cab slot and super glued to the safety valve cover.
My brother spotted that CPL had their cab dials available again, so I picked up a set at Telford for the LSWR and SR. Here they are glued to the brass etches. These will be glued into place on the cab front after painting and the pipes routed to their relative fittings on the back plate.
The coupling hooks only have a short stub for fitting to the buffer beam, so I added a length of 12 BA bolt to allow them to be bolted in place after painting. However, if was a real faff getting the nut on and tightening it up on the loco, so for the tender, I lengthened the stub by soldering on a length of waste fret to allow fitting with a spring and pin. I then remembered that there were two hooks on the loco fret so I did the samd on the loco.
To increase the surface area between the buffer beam and the spigot on the safety chain eyelets, a small "square" of waste fret was soldered inside each buffer beam and the holes were drilled through. This will allow the eyelets to be glued in place after painting.
Here are the chains temporarily in place on the tender along with the coupling. The chains were made from 0.6mm nickel silver rod.
That just left the tender axle boxes and springs to finish things off. As these will be black and the frames green and lined out in Adam's livery, they will also be fitted after painting. Here they are after fettling up and push fit into the holes in the frames.
I'll put the loco back together with all the loose items fitted to take a photo of the finished build, then it's off to Warren Haywood for painting.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
It's all done and dusted and will taken to Warren's tomorrow for painting. A final modification was to crank the draw bar, remove the lowered part of the slot in the drag beam and replace the upward facing draw bar peg on the tender with a downward facing one. This makes fitting the loco chassis and coupling up the tender easier. I've also increased the loco to tender spacing so that it will negotiate curves with the dummy buffers in place.
Some views of the model with all the detachable bits in place.
Next up will be a Gladiator D11.
Cheers,
Peter
Some views of the model with all the detachable bits in place.
Next up will be a Gladiator D11.
Cheers,
Peter
freelance7
Western Thunderer
Very nice work Peter
Paul
Paul
PhilMortimer
Member
Very Nice!
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Quick snap of the finished loco other than plates which will be here soon. I’ve also noticed the footstep has not had its black edging yet
It will be lacquered once the plates are on.
Lovely build Peter.
It will be lacquered once the plates are on.Lovely build Peter.
