P A D
Western Thunderer
I'm still chivvying away at the chassis with not a lot to show for my efforts. To finish off the crankpins I made some lock nuts from brass rod in the lathe and the cotterpins from 0.5mm brass wire. Here are two of them along with the simple tool for tightening them. It's just a piece of suitable tube that fits over the nuts, with a slot each side that locates in the cotter pin. You can of course us a pin vice as suggested by Rob Pulham. The nut is quite thin and is soldered to the outer bush for strength.
And in place on the chassis.
They are not a perfect replica of the real thing, but better than the LG ones and a whole lot better than the 10BA Slaters nut.
It's hard to see in this image, but I also turned up a bush to replace the 8 washers on the bogie retaining nut. The ride height looks OK and I was able to give it a push around the curves on my brother's layout. I expected the bogie wheels to foul the splashers but it ran around the curves OK. I'll post a video later.
With all running smoothly, I added the slidebar brackets, cylinder covers, piston tail rod guides and the tail rod. The tail rod is 1.2mm NS rod but is supplied as a short length cut from a roll. I annealed it and straightened by rolling on a flat surface, but I'm not happy with it and will replace when I have sourced a straight length.
The tail rods are quite close to the front splasher, but unless the painter piles the paint on with a hosepipe, it should OK.
I misunderstood the instructions and added the drain cocks but I will have to remove them to fit the wrapper. The bolt for limiting the side play of the rear bogie wheels has been replaced with some smooth rod, as there was a tendency for the threads to snag on sides of the slot in ghf bogie bracket.
A view of the cylinders from the front. The glands are two etchings spaced with 0.8mm rod to represent the fixing bolts.
Next the inside valve gear, which is a simplified version of Stephenson's Link Motion. Here are the parts laid out on the instructions.
These are the valve rod glands in the rear of the cylinders. Again two etchings and rods for the nuts.
The valve guides gave been added to the valve gear spacer from brass tube and the cast valve rods prepped.
Left hand cylinder and con rod. With the slid bar bracket soldered in place, the crosshead can no longer be removed.
T'other side.
And the whole nine yards.
Once I get all the moving bits out of the way I can hopefully crack on at a better pace.
Cheers,
Peter
And in place on the chassis.
They are not a perfect replica of the real thing, but better than the LG ones and a whole lot better than the 10BA Slaters nut.
It's hard to see in this image, but I also turned up a bush to replace the 8 washers on the bogie retaining nut. The ride height looks OK and I was able to give it a push around the curves on my brother's layout. I expected the bogie wheels to foul the splashers but it ran around the curves OK. I'll post a video later.
With all running smoothly, I added the slidebar brackets, cylinder covers, piston tail rod guides and the tail rod. The tail rod is 1.2mm NS rod but is supplied as a short length cut from a roll. I annealed it and straightened by rolling on a flat surface, but I'm not happy with it and will replace when I have sourced a straight length.
The tail rods are quite close to the front splasher, but unless the painter piles the paint on with a hosepipe, it should OK.
I misunderstood the instructions and added the drain cocks but I will have to remove them to fit the wrapper. The bolt for limiting the side play of the rear bogie wheels has been replaced with some smooth rod, as there was a tendency for the threads to snag on sides of the slot in ghf bogie bracket.
A view of the cylinders from the front. The glands are two etchings spaced with 0.8mm rod to represent the fixing bolts.
Next the inside valve gear, which is a simplified version of Stephenson's Link Motion. Here are the parts laid out on the instructions.
These are the valve rod glands in the rear of the cylinders. Again two etchings and rods for the nuts.
The valve guides gave been added to the valve gear spacer from brass tube and the cast valve rods prepped.
Left hand cylinder and con rod. With the slid bar bracket soldered in place, the crosshead can no longer be removed.
T'other side.
And the whole nine yards.
Once I get all the moving bits out of the way I can hopefully crack on at a better pace.
Cheers,
Peter
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