Dublingham Goods Station

Discussion in 'Entries' started by 76043, 26 October 2017.

  1. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Thanks Mick, I know it's all a bit topsy turvy weird, with all this Dublo lark, looking back on my 2mm days I would never have thought I would end up here! I do have the stock for a 7mm shunting plank to do at some point, so maybe sense will prevail.

    I haven't done anything special with the Pi, just downloaded NOOBS and installed it, created a PDF and running with a PowerPoint clicker, really basic stuff. The main Raspberry Pi website tells you how to do that stuff, link below.

    NOOBS - Raspberry Pi Documentation

    Tony
     
    Last edited: 10 April 2019
  2. Simpas

    Simpas Western Thunderer

    Thanks Tony, I've just had look and it seems straightforward enough even though there are some terms used that mean nothing to me at this stage, but that's no excuse for having a go. In for a penny as they say, a project for post Railex perhaps.

    Mick S.
     
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  3. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Need to crack on with the backscene and front fascia now. To get the dimensions right, I used masking tape to help visualise it. Am looking at a deep top edge to hide the top edge of the rear backscene and a place to mount the LED lighting.

    I placed some temporary buildings to look at viewing angles.

    IMG_20190414_101428.jpg
    IMG_20190414_101514.jpg
    IMG_20190414_101531.jpg
     
    Last edited: 14 April 2019
    Simpas, NHY 581, unklian and 4 others like this.
  4. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Ok, so backscene was cut and front facsia cut and glued on. Just takes a long time as there's plenty of woodworking to be done before it even gets stuck on.

    IMG_20190414_194035~2.jpg
    Curve requires spacers top and bottom, the foamex sits inside the cabinet, but is flexible enough to sit over the topmost wooden beams so I might make it higher and sit over them.

    IMG_20190414_194126.jpg

    This is the inside of the cabinet showing where the LED lighting will go, just above the aperture, hopefully resulting in no unsightly shadows on any rolling stock on the front-most siding

    IMG_20190414_194144.jpg
     
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  5. NHY 581

    NHY 581 Western Thunderer

    Morning Tony.

    If I might make an observation based on my experience of lighting.

    My first cameoesque layout had the lighting flush with the front edge of the base board. This did mean that the front of the layout was somewhat dark.

    On Mutton, I made the fascia overhang the front edge of the layout by a couple of inches.

    This worked much better and I subsequently altered the first layout accordingly.

    Bleat will have similar lighting mounted outboard of the front edge to illuminate the front.

    I also mount a second strip of LED in the middle of the layout.

    One LED is warm white and the other is cool white. This combo gives a nice daylight feel to it all.


    Rob.
     
  6. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Hi Rob, thanks for your observations and experience, very much appreciated as your work on WT is superb and this is my first ever layout, so I'm trying to get everything right with no prior experience other than my experience as a former architectural modelmaker, which is a very different discipline.

    I think @Simpas and the Cameo book mentioned both the overhang issue and the mix of LEDs, so have been thinking about this for some time. I also happen to photograph works of art and sculpture for living now so was hoping my lighting experience will see me through.... Maybe!!

    It's good to know a couple of inches worked for your overhang as that's all I have with my curve. I'm hoping this is enough to stop frontal shadows, but we'll see. For this line of LEDs, I intend to point them downwards or at 45° and put some diffusion over them, which is likely to be tracing paper. I had read others on WT that felt LEDs are too harsh, well they are because they have no diffusion. I suspect LEDs are perfect for sunny day effects, but not overcast, if I keep the plain foamex colour, then overcast diffused lighting is needed.

    I've also bought a mix of cool and warm to see how that goes, I do have a rebate in the top of the cabinet that was intended to be for a cover, so will experiment with the placement on the cover.

    Thanks again
    Tony
     
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  7. Yorkshire Dave

    Yorkshire Dave Western Thunderer

    This was my approach except I angled the LED strip at around 25° to 30° and they also had diffusion.
     
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  8. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Did you make your own diffusion or did the LEDs come with diffusion?

    I'll try those angles too then, cheers!
     
  9. Yorkshire Dave

    Yorkshire Dave Western Thunderer

    I was lazy and purchased a 5m roll of LEDs, 1m aluminium channel, diffusers and ends from a lighting supplier I found on the web. I think they were in Liverpool.

    The LED roll is handy as you can cut it to the desired length added to which they have a peel 'n' stick backing.
     
  10. 76043

    76043 Western Thunderer

    Thanks Dave, today I purchased some triangular wooden beading so will stick the LEDs onto that and wrap the diffusion material around it. Yes, I bought the stick on LEDs stuff too, but will probably glue it as a backup.
     
  11. Simpas

    Simpas Western Thunderer

    Tony, I'm just catching up after a brief trip overseas hence a somewhat late'ish contribution.

    I still haven't settled on the proper means of diffusion and in the absence of a 'perfect solution' I may very well leave as is. Mine don't overhang but are sited at the front shining directly down. There are six rows of alternatively placed warm white and cool white and they give a good light with no shadows. If I were doing it again I would make the top of the cabinet and inch or so deeper to accommodate some plastic sheet diffuser.

    Mick S.