A (nother) China Clay layout

Discussion in 'Layout Progress' started by matto21, 24 August 2019.

  1. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    Thanks both, I'm particularly pleased given I've only used the lining paper to form the curve. Nice thick stuff so hopefully it'll resist damage.

    By the way Mr @Pencarrow - as you're particularly adept at using Wills sheets to produce buildings, how do you cut them, knife or saw?

    Matt
     
  2. Pencarrow

    Pencarrow Western Thunderer

    Hi Matt,

    First thing is to cut from the rear face, not the front - stops the cutter wandering.

    Next, a tool well worth investing in is one of these, a Tamiya scriber:

    rps20191008_202500.jpg

    Very quickly cuts through thick plastic. Also good for distressing material, creating stone faces and drawing mortar courses.
     
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  3. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    I have a Tamiya scriber already. Do you cut right through or score then snap? To be honest, I've not really used Wills plastic sheets before.

    Matt
     
  4. Lyndhurstman

    Lyndhurstman Western Thunderer

    Ah... what I’ve always known as a Scrawker. A mighty useful tool in shape shifting plasticard. I got mine from Eileen’s.

    Cheers

    Jan
     
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  5. Lyndhurstman

    Lyndhurstman Western Thunderer

    Hi Matt

    My two penn’orth...

    I’ve used the scrawker to scribe from the back for Wills sheet; particularly the coarse stone. Once you’re close, there will be a witness on the front from the deformation. I run over this with a sharp scalpel (11 blade in a 3 handle) until the substrate surrenders.

    Cheers

    Jan
     
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  6. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    Thank you Jan, I appreciate the info.

    Getting dangerously close to making progress here!

    IMG_20191009_203355.jpg

    IMG_20191009_203334.jpg

    Matt
     
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  7. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    As a bit of a change of scenery from baseboard tweaking, I've started one of the first buildings for the layout. A simple store based on a photo taken at Drinnick Mill but the dimensions have been slightly tweaked.

    The main purpose of this was to practice a concrete effect.

    IMG_20191016_175517.jpg

    Now awaiting some paint, especially on the roof and intentionally rickety doors!

    Matt
     
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  8. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    How have you made the walls? They look really effective.
     
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  9. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    Hi Stubby,

    I used this:

    IMG_20191017_194550.jpg

    In my opinion, its too coarse for 4mm scale directly from the pot, so I sanded it down after it had dried to tone down the effect slightly.

    I also built the carcass of the building from card - I usually use plastic sheet - because I figured it'd stick better.

    Matt
     
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  10. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    I've made a start at painting the doors - I want to represent faded, worn and peeling paint.

    I started off with an undercoat of a red brown colour:

    IMG_20191017_202549.jpg

    After this had dried, I sprayed a coat of AK's Worn Effects and then applied the top coat, mixed from Tamiya acrylics. The chipping process itself was only semi successful - I've stated before that this is a technique I can never quite get to work. I've made several "corrections" as can be seen from the slightly different colour blue:

    IMG_20191019_151907.jpg

    Now a bit of wall weathering before tackling the roof.

    Matt
     
  11. jonte

    jonte Western Thunderer

    I like it Matt.

    Sometimes we can be our harshest critics. Relax; it’s fine.

    As modeller’s, I find we get a bit hung-up on the ‘chipped/flakiness’ of a surface, but if we stop to look closely, much of the distress we seek is represented by what’s left of the paint. Akin to weathering and erosion in general, paint also fades at different rates leaving the residue with a host a range of hues of the same colour - I know, I need to get out more; I find washes with different concentrations of the same colour ideal for the purpose.

    I agree that the suck-it-and-see approach of using what is essentially the hairspray technique can prove more than a little frustrating at times because it is difficult to control the outcome, but I find that it is just this unpredictability that gives it the edge over say the use of Maskol, with which it is very difficult to avoid a contrived look. As humankind, we’re not very good at being random, hence the Random-Number generator on a calculator. If you’re not careful, you can end up with an unintentional camouflage look using Maskol, so use it only as last resort.

    I repeat, it looks fine to my humble eye, Matt, but if you insist on starting again, use exactly the same method but just employ a couple of thin washes over the top before ‘chipping away’ with paint brush ‘n’ water. You can even just wash some thinned paint of the same shade and/or some watery thin white washed/blobbed on here and there, over the existing surface.

    Still I like it the way it is.

    Keep it coming.

    Jonte
     
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  12. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    Jonte,

    I agree with you. Some years back I built a Cambrian Brake van for my Porth Dinllaen project, and I tried salt mask as a means of getting a faded and worn appearance on the red ends that the van would have had. It’s all detailed on the other channel, but in cutting a long story short, I decided it wasn’t good enough and redid it in plain grey.

    Looked at photos on Thursday evening in the pub with some mates, and decided it wasn’t actually that bad at all. Maybe beer goggles of course, and anyway, everything looks better in a rose-tinted rear view mirror. Anyway, if there’s a moral, it’s “leave it for a fortnight, and then have another look”.

    Atb
    Simon
     
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  13. jonte

    jonte Western Thunderer

    Hear, hear Simon.

    And if you’ve finished with those beer goggles, I could sure use them ;)

    Chin chin.

    Jonte
     
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  14. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    Thanks for the kind words. Some unexpected free time today has resulted in almost completion:

    IMG_20191020_155623.jpg

    IMG_20191020_155707.jpg

    IMG_20191020_155635.jpg

    Matt
     
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  15. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    I think I’d be rather proud of that. Nice!

    Btw, I understand that mustard or marmite can also be used as a temporary mask, though I haven’t tried it. They have to be washed off, of course. I imagine toothpaste would also work.

    Atb
    Simon
     
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  16. Geoff

    Geoff Western Thunderer

    I would also be proud of that lovely little building Matt, I'm also a firm believer in what Simon says about leaving things for a fortnight then taking another look.

    Geoff
     
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  17. Pencarrow

    Pencarrow Western Thunderer

    Great job Matt. Like the finishes you've achieved. Don't forget ironwork on the doors though...
     
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  18. matto21

    matto21 Western Thunderer

    Thank you Simon, I think I'll give toothpaste and mustard a miss though, my modelling is messy enough as it is!

    Thanks for looking in Geoff, your comments are always valued!

    Thanks Mr @Pencarrow, the building this is based on has no visible ironwork either so I'm guessing sliding doors maybe?

    I need to do a little more weathering to the roof but it's 99% done and I'm very pleased with it. I did consider guttering and downpipes, but the original doesn't have any either so I think I'll steer clear.

    Matt
     
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