Scale7 JB Workbench.

Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
lnerjp said:
A couple of suggestione, how about a E4 or even a E4 or you could do a E4.

JP
Click to expand...

So far as I know Jim McGeown is doing one off the back of the F3 that he has just launched. Same engine.

A lot of the engines that I would REALLY REALLY REALLY like to do had gone by BR.

Will get those bogies off to you tomorrow mate.

JB.
 
lnerjp

lnerjp

Western Thunderer
I tried to pin Jim down at Telford but he was very uncommittal, but I guess in his position I would be. Your right he has the F3 and the tender as well.

Maybe you could do a GER T26 instead;)

JP
 
Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Well thankfully the footplate is now the correct length. As mentioned previously this was bad housekeeping whilst I was still working in TurboCad Mac Pro, a hateful program.

Found some of that Finney7 solder. Think it may run out tomorrow though..

I tried to find a way to make curving the footplate easier, mostly by putting half etch markings on the underside of the footplate to tell the builder where to start and stop the curves in relation to the curves on the valance. I think it certainly helped a bit but not sure how much in relation to the dimples that have resulted in the top edge of the footplate. I'll find out if they're still visible after painting.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

JB.
 
richard carr

richard carr

Western Thunderer
JB

Personally I wouldn't use the half etch lines, they will just cause a crease or dimple that will show. It is relatively easy to form that shape of footplate id you have a precisely placed datum to start the process from. I would make the rear drag beam a tab and slot fit into the footplate so that is can only go in the correct position, once that is in place forming the curves in the correct place follows fairly easily.

Looks great !

Richard
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Hi JB,

That’s really looking the part. I completely agree with Richard, buildability is important but I think you will see witness marks on the top of the footplate and it’s not worth the sacrifice of one against the other. The F7 BLP cab uses this method to assist in form the tight radius curves but it’s too easy to 50p it and it’s a real pain! I fear a builder who doesn’t know the kit like you would over form on the line and then it’s too late and you’ll never get it back

Looking forward to the rest of the build,

Mick
 
Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Thankyou Richard.

Do you mean something like this?

image.jpeg

The tab closest to the corner is from the leading edge of the valance. The valance sides do have a cradle aswell to make sure everything remains square.

Thanks Mick, you're absolutely right, I won't use that method again. Thankfully it doesn't show through too badly, but may be a reason for a mk3 etch.

JB.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
If you think that having a "start-finish" line for the bends is a good thing.... then consider putting the half etch mark on the etch frame to the footplate and make that marking a "first read this" note at the start of the instructions. The builder can transfer your etch mark into a permanent marker line on the footplate if he/she so wishes.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The half etch will show on the paint, even if it looks and feels smooth it'll show under certain light angles, even half etch slots in boilers for the forming ring will often leave a witness mark.

I understand the wish to provide a datum but do most builders really need it, I suspect most don't and have evolved their own methods of forming complex curves.
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
Dog Star said:
then consider putting the half etch mark on the etch frame to the footplate
Click to expand...
That was going to be my suggestion as well. The LNWR brake van I have been building uses that method to indicate where to bend the sheet for the lookout duckets. I’ll dig out a photo when I get home.
 
richard carr

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I think builders do need a datum, those 2 tabs on the outside frame do provide it, I hadn't spotted them before.

And if you are wondering where I got this from it was an article by Chris Wesson in MRJ, on how to build a Finney Radial Tank !

Richard
 
Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Thanks everyone, but not too sure what you mean by putting the markings on the footplate frame.

Richard it was chatting with you a while back the at made me think about putting the two tabs into the footplate as a datum. You wouldn't have seen it on the first etch as it wasn't there, it's one of the many additions. :)

In other news the chassis (frames) is now rolling, and very very happy with how it's gone together. Pop the boiler on and it all just doesn't look right compared to a photo of the real thing. I'm wondering if the GER society drawings are wrong. Will post photos tomorrow. Very disheartening.

JB.
 
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