Wantage Tramway No.5

freelance7

Western Thunderer
I built one of these a few years back, mainly to refresh my modelling and scratch building skills having been away from the hobby for several years. I found the instructions in the MRJ very straight forward, although I did add some more detail from photos I found on the internet. I too built it to scale 7 and had fun with the clearance behind the cross heads, very tight! I also used High Level Space Saver Hornblocks Untitled Document

Here is a photo of one I did earlier :), I still need to add some pick ups and then it's ready for a paint.

IMG_1541.JPG

Looking forward to following your build,

Paul
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I built one of these a few years back, mainly to refresh my modelling and scratch building skills having been away from the hobby for several years. I found the instructions in the MRJ very straight forward, although I did add some more detail from photos I found on the internet. I too built it to scale 7 and had fun with the clearance behind the cross heads, very tight! I also used High Level Space Saver Hornblocks Untitled Document

Here is a photo of one I did earlier :), I still need to add some pick ups and then it's ready for a paint.

View attachment 120060

Looking forward to following your build,

Paul

Hi Paul

That looks really nice! Very inspiring. Looks too nice to paint. Do you mind me asking how you did the self-contained buffers?

Mike
 

freelance7

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,

My good lady also says it looks too nice to paint. For the buffers I soldered the buffer housings onto the front part of the buffer beam, I then cut the rear portion off so that it was flush. I then filed the nut to just less than half thickness and threaded it onto the shank of the buffer head. A hole was then drilled in the wooden beam that goes in between the front and rear buffer plates so that the nut would pass through easily when the buffer head was depressed. I then cut off the excess part of the thread so that it was flush with the rear of the nut . On assembly the front plate was epoxied to the wooden inner section, the buffer put together and then the wooden beam was epoxied to the rear plate that was already attached to the footplate. A bit fiddly I know and I only get about 1.5mm of depression, but better than nothing.

Paul
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Mike,
Your No 5 is looking good. Before you go too far, are you aware that the drawings in MRJ are incorrect? Particularly around the cylinders, which are drawn oversize. I had started a model of No 5 using a drawing from an early MRN or MRC but stopped when I realised it was very wrong, so paid a visit to Didcot. When the first article in MRJ came out I sent a letter to the editor with a copy of the accurate GA (published in the Oakwood Press Wantage Tramway book) and received a phone call the next day. The drawing was then revised and published in the next issue but it did not correct all the errors, particularly the cylinders, because they felt it would cause too much of an upset to potentially have people undo work they had already done. To double check, I went back to Didcot and measured No 5 more comprehensively. The Scale 7 Group newsletter around the same time has a series of 2 or 3 articles detailing the actual dimensions and changes needed to build an accurate model. I am not sure of the dates, probably 1999-2000 if you can find back issues. I built No 5 in original condition using as many of the MRJ parts as I could and a photo was published in MRJ.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Mike,
Your No 5 is looking good. Before you go too far, are you aware that the drawings in MRJ are incorrect? Particularly around the cylinders, which are drawn oversize. I had started a model of No 5 using a drawing from an early MRN or MRC but stopped when I realised it was very wrong, so paid a visit to Didcot. When the first article in MRJ came out I sent a letter to the editor with a copy of the accurate GA (published in the Oakwood Press Wantage Tramway book) and received a phone call the next day. The drawing was then revised and published in the next issue but it did not correct all the errors, particularly the cylinders, because they felt it would cause too much of an upset to potentially have people undo work they had already done. To double check, I went back to Didcot and measured No 5 more comprehensively. The Scale 7 Group newsletter around the same time has a series of 2 or 3 articles detailing the actual dimensions and changes needed to build an accurate model. I am not sure of the dates, probably 1999-2000 if you can find back issues. I built No 5 in original condition using as many of the MRJ parts as I could and a photo was published in MRJ.

I did wonder about the cylinder dimensions but, to be honest I'm not too worried. By the time I've finished my model I suspect there may be a few more 'compromises'! :)

I think as long as it can run along my 6' of track and turnouts without falling off, I'll be happy.

I've got a complete set of MRJs: do you know which number your model was published in? I'm seeking inspiration. :cool:

Mike
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
The Scale 7 Group newsletter around the same time has a series of 2 or 3 articles detailing the actual dimensions and changes needed to build an accurate model. I am not sure of the dates, probably 1999-2000 if you can find back issues. I built No 5 in original condition using as many of the MRJ parts as I could and a photo was published in MRJ.
The S7 NL articles were in issues 41 & 42 from 2000. Available from the Members Downloads section of the website.
Dave
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I would have to get the box of MRJs out to find the photo, not sure which issue, it was early 2001 I think.

These photos have been seen before on WT -
View attachment 120108
View attachment 120109
View attachment 120110

I'm very impressed with your model. Not seen those pictures before.

It looks like you added working inside motion. I'm toying with doing the same but not sure whether my skills are up to it. I'm also wondering how visible it actually is.

Mike
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
I'm very impressed with your model. Not seen those pictures before.

It looks like you added working inside motion. I'm toying with doing the same but not sure whether my skills are up to it. I'm also wondering how visible it actually is.

Mike
I made all the parts for working inside motion but decided in the end to fit it as cosmetic, so it doesn't move. I left the valve rods off, they have a horse shoe section around the axle, and wondered what they were when I saw them in a parts box recently. You wouldn't have much bearing surface on the rear axle if you fit eccentrics. The movement would be visible but I can live without it.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I made all the parts for working inside motion but decided in the end to fit it as cosmetic, so it doesn't move. I left the valve rods off, they have a horse shoe section around the axle, and wondered what they were when I saw them in a parts box recently. You wouldn't have much bearing surface on the rear axle if you fit eccentrics. The movement would be visible but I can live without it.

I think I'll make the bits up and see how it goes. It does look a bit fiddly.

Mike
 
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